5.0 Exhaust Thread | Page 32 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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5.0 Exhaust Thread

Best exhaust for modded 5.0 Explorer-Mountaineer

  • Dual exit with flowmaster-

    Votes: 162 41.2%
  • Dual exit with thrush turbo

    Votes: 27 6.9%
  • Single exit 70 series 2.5" tailpipe-rear cats removed

    Votes: 53 13.5%
  • Single exit with 3" tailpipe-rear cats removed

    Votes: 81 20.6%
  • Other--please specify in post

    Votes: 70 17.8%

  • Total voters
    393
Hey whats the part number for the magnaflowr dual 2.5 in single 3 out NON stainless muffler. i can only find them in stainless.

AFAIK MF only does stainless. Why would you want non stainless?



Mine is an 01 5.0 awd. Scrubber cats removed. 2.5" dual in 3” single out borla pro xs 3" mandrel bent tail dumping right behind the rear tire. Start up and low rpm is throaty but not terribly loud inside. Outside.... Pretty loud and deep. Freeway cruising can easily hold a normal conversation. Step on it and it screams.
 



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AFAIK MF only does stainless. Why would you want non stainless?

cost. i went with flowmaster 40 series dual in single out wiht 2.5 pipes in the stock locations. ditched post cats as well. now i just gotta open up the intake.
 






cost. i went with flowmaster 40 series dual in single out wiht 2.5 pipes in the stock locations. ditched post cats as well. now i just gotta open up the intake.

What was your part number? I've been trying to find a 40 series dual in single out but cant find one anywhere
 






Mine with a poor quality camera, picked up a water pump squeal and made it worse than it is. My Explorer engine is in a Volvo. Block hugger headers 2.25 head pipes going into a single 3" with a Dynomax bullet and a Dynomax Super Turbo.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mG0GouFGeFU&feature=em-upload_owner

Hope to get a better vid soon?
 












I've read this thread for quite a while now. My 2001 gold XLT is all stock in the exhaust department with a pair of Dorman replacement exhaust manifolds. My Wife's black 2000 XLT is either going to get the passenger side manifold replaced to remedy the pickle seeder sound or a set of TM or OBX headers. I most likely will replace the manifold and move on. Her exhaust was a little worse for wear with the tailpipe completely off at the muffler. I found an IMCO (Flowmaster knockoff) dual 2 1/4" in and dual 2 1/4" out for $40 at a swap meet. I took it last weekend to a local muffler shop to have them work some magic. We left the secondary cats on...for now...and cut the muffler off at the heat shields. 2 1/4" short pipes were then bent slightly to even the spread difference for the muffler, which was then tacked into place. One of the guys built a really nice y-pipe with the hopes of running 3" out the back. We then regrouped and decided to go for 2 1/2" out the back as she has a bit of spring sag that I plan on matching by lowering the front torsion bars. After making the y-pipe for 2 1/2" instead of 3", it went into place along with a well bent 2 1/2" tailpipe. It exits through the passenger leaf spring at a downward angle, pointing slightly back and out. It sounds amazing! Perfect rumble at idle, very noticeable on acceleration and very little drone at cruise speeds. Now for the manifold leak.
 






Ok guys well this is one of my first post I think . I have my 94 ranger in need of headers . I finished my 96 5.0 efi expo swap last month . I'm already wanting more out of my dd . So with that im looking at header options . I know there are the obx knockoffs of the tm's on flea bay , used tm's if I can find them . Well in the ranger world we can fit 60's tri-y's which are kinda long tube . The primes are 1 1/2 , and collectors are 2.5 which is what most of the exhaust is beside the stock expo manifolds and some of the expo exhaust size piping after the flanges to get past the trans area . I built the exhaust true dual which is dumped under the bed With stock 2010 up 5.0 stock mufflers and tips 90'd down. With the tm's and obx ko's what kinda gains are you guys seeing ? And would the tri's be just as good if not a lil more since long . I'm pretty sure I'm just going to buy them along with some rr's in either 1.6 stock spec or 1.7's for a lil more gain . Course that's a whole nother thread . Thanks guys for any info . Between this forum and ranger I would of never got this bad boy running .
 






Here is a video of my 5.0 exhaust. I have a rear cat delete with a mac cat back system dual 2.5in in and 3in out.

https://youtu.be/HctvZaljOX0
 






I have now officially read every single post in this very long thread. wow....
On to the reason for the post. I am happy with the way the truck sounds with the rear cats removed and the muffler replaced with the Flowmaster. However since getting the camper I'd like to try and find a little more highway power (Not necessarily more low end torque). Would removing the rest of the cats help in that regard? I can live with the CEL till I can get a tuner to delete the 2nd set of O2 sensors.
 






I have now officially read every single post in this very long thread. wow....
On to the reason for the post. I am happy with the way the truck sounds with the rear cats removed and the muffler replaced with the Flowmaster. However since getting the camper I'd like to try and find a little more highway power (Not necessarily more low end torque). Would removing the rest of the cats help in that regard? I can live with the CEL till I can get a tuner to delete the 2nd set of O2 sensors.
Get a cam and headers. Easily the 2 best things I did to mine.

Removing the cats is not only illegal but it also will do very little to help. Cats today don't have the restriction they did in the 70s
 






20160608_182134_zps22nscrmc.jpg
While I agree with everything you said.. A can and a set of torque monsters just isn't in the budget. Now.. On the subject of headers, I do have access to these. I don't suppose they'll at all will they?

20160608_182146_zps1satv0pk.jpg
 






So after readind some of the post on here not all of them.

Straight pipes is not ideal? Whats the easiest and best performance to have? I was wanting to go with just 3" pipes all the way back. But i am seeing people say that Im gonna lost high end and mess with the computer.
 






So after readind some of the post on here not all of them.

Straight pipes is not ideal? Whats the easiest and best performance to have? I was wanting to go with just 3" pipes all the way back. But i am seeing people say that Im gonna lost high end and mess with the computer.

Just my opinion, I think in my situation 2.5" would sound better. 3" sounds lazy to me. I will swap cams and see if that's all it needs. Explorer cam is small. And exhaust was one of the questions James Henson asked in the tune he wrote for me. Better (?) video of stock Explorer 5.0 w/ block hugger headers and homemade 2.25 into 3" single mandrel bent system.
 






So after readind some of the post on here not all of them.

Straight pipes is not ideal? Whats the easiest and best performance to have? I was wanting to go with just 3" pipes all the way back. But i am seeing people say that Im gonna lost high end and mess with the computer.

These trucks have single exhaust systems. A dual exhaust has two mufflers and two tail pipes, dual means two different complete end to end paths for airflow.

If you install two mufflers and two tail pipes you will double the airflow from the middle of the truck to the back. That's with small 2.25" mufflers and tail pipes. Look up any old car with any small block in it, and see what size the typical pipes are, end to end.

The exhaust manifolds are extremely restrictive, I don't think opening it up behind that will seriously require computer tuning, but that would help a good bit, or do it later. The exhaust manifolds are about 80% of the restriction of the exhaust, the other parts are important but not extremely bad, just bad.
 






Yeah I was planning on doing straight pipes. Dual exhaust. I also plan on dropping in a 347 with a mild cam in there as well. I just figured I could do the exhaust in the mean time for now but maybe its to early.

Edit: Yeah I know im gonna new a new tune for all of this stuff.
 






Don,

Thinking about the following

From the OBX headers - replace front cats with high flow versions (recommendations)??
Remove 2nd set of cats
2.5" or 3" dual pipes to (2) flowmaster 40 series mufflers and out the back dual pipes

Not sure of exhaust exit - still playing with idea of center exit (like older Jeep SRT8) or something else unique

I still plan on installing my powerdyne supercharger too.

How does this sound?
 






I have obx headers no cats and a thrush welded dual in and out with 2.5" pipe 3"X12" tips. Love the sound
 












So I went to the company here locally that does mandrel bent exhaust systems and showed him my setup with headers. He recommended that I go no more than 2.5" pipe. We decided to go with (2) high flow cats - (2) stagger mounted Flowmaster 40 Series (stainless) mufflers and all stainless mandrel custom bent pipe with two pipes out the back. Still haven't decided on tips or where they will come out. I still would like to consider center exit but not sure if it will look right.

Its going to be a bit pricey but I hope worth it.
 



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So I went to the company here locally that does mandrel bent exhaust systems and showed him my setup with headers. He recommended that I go no more than 2.5" pipe. We decided to go with (2) high flow cats - (2) stagger mounted Flowmaster 40 Series (stainless) mufflers and all stainless mandrel custom bent pipe with two pipes out the back. Still haven't decided on tips or where they will come out. I still would like to consider center exit but not sure if it will look right.

Its going to be a bit pricey but I hope worth it.

See if there is a way he can "flip" the exhaust exits to achieve equal length between the 2 banks. As it is, for the driver side to go over to the passenger side and then back again, I reckon this makes the driver side bank about 4 feet longer than the passenger side exhaust. Running the driver bank to the right side for exit and the passenger bank to the driver side for exit would help equalize the length.

without this one side will always have more pulsing shotgun noise than the other side. It makes an uneven , almost a misfire sound.

Just my .02.
 






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