Pugly

gmanpaint · September 27, 2014

OK, so I had to get the tires weight balanced. Two of them only took 1/2 an oz, so they went on the front. The other two tires took almost 7 oz of weights.

I looked online for more DynaBeads to use in these new tires, and holy cow, they shot up in price, since I purchased them. 32 oz is $54.00 on Amazon. They say to use 8 oz for a 35" tire that weighs around 60 lbs. Sheesh.

So I searched to see if they can be reused, and plenty of folk say they have and can.
So......

These beads are tiny. So tiny in fact they can be installed thru the valve stem. Here they are inside one of the tires. Notice how the inside is all grey? Thats dust from the beads rubbing the inside of the tire over time.

OK, so I tried picking them up by hand. Epic fail. Then I tried an envelope and a small brush. Too much of a PITA, as they kept falling back out of the envelope. So...... I thought of this!

Dustbuster to the rescue!! LOL! Ended up with this.

There all dusty, (They are clear ceramic). I need to figure a way to clean them so I can reuse them in the back tires and get rid of those lead weights. Any ideas?

EDIT:
I thought of something! Coffee filter inside a mesh strainer, run under the tap until clean.

Pugs New shoes. 35" x 12.5" x 15" LT BFG- T/A- KO- C rated

rkh58 · September 27, 2014

Paper and mesh paint filters work great for that. Cone shape won't fold over on itself and they will dry quicker and be easier to get out.

gmanpaint · September 27, 2014

rkh58 said:
Paper and mesh paint filters work great for that. Cone shape won't fold over on itself and they will dry quicker and be easier to get out.

Great Idea! :thumbsup:

I happen to have some!

Turdle · September 27, 2014

Fine mesh tea strainer :thumbsup:

edit. nevermind,

gmanpaint · October 4, 2014

Turdle said:
Fine mesh tea strainer

edit. nevermind,

It's a good idea, I just don't own a tea strainer.

So.... The CEL has been coming on randomly for a few seconds at a time. Nothing seems wrong so I thought it was no big deal. I decided to put the code reader on it and see whats up.

It shows codes 332, 334, & 335 and it's all EGR stuff. I replaced the stock DPFE and silicone tubes on it already, and wondering if this new plastic version can go bad? I also replaced all the gaskets about a year ago when I did the lower intake gasket. Not sure what to think since I know these EGR valves really don't go bad, and just need cleaned some times. The EGR looks great tho.

gmanpaint · November 2, 2014

For those that have done the C-clip eliminator mod in the front....

I don't know if the spring lost it's tension or if something else is going on.

The shaft has about 1/2" or so slop in it, and the spring is not tight. I noticed the yolk is wet with gear oil, and seen the shaft was easy to slide in/out by hand. I did install a new seal on the housing when I installed, but it seems it might be slinging some oil due to the slop in the shaft.

Is this normal or do I need to get a new spring on there? :scratch:

Hmm.... The collar is still tight on the shaft, but maybe it moved causing the slack.

Maniak · November 3, 2014

gmanpaint said:
For those that have done the C-clip eliminator mod in the front....

I don't know if the spring lost it's tension or if something else is going on.

The shaft has about 1/2" or so slop in it, and the spring is not tight. I noticed the yolk is wet with gear oil, and seen the shaft was easy to slide in/out by hand. I did install a new seal on the housing when I installed, but it seems it might be slinging some oil due to the slop in the shaft.

Is this normal or do I need to get a new spring on there? :scratch:

Hmm.... The collar is still tight on the shaft, but maybe it moved causing the slack.

I'd guess that the collar moved more than the spring getting weak. My collar was right in the groove on the axle so it would be easy for me to see if it actually moved. It's been on our X for 5 years or so and things still seem good.

Of course, you can always put some nail polish at the seam between the collar and the shaft. If it breaks, you know it moved.

~Mark

gmanpaint · November 3, 2014

Thanks for the reply Mark.

The boot ripped all the way around on the inside of the collar, and I'm sure the collar moved away from the pumpkin, causing it. I will move it back tight again, and use the location marking tip you gave. Thanks!

gmanpaint · November 5, 2014

Another not sure thing going on.

I discovered that the rear main seal is leaking. Either the new one was not installed properly, or it went south already. :dunno:

Either way, I'm hoping it doesn't get any worse, and can make it until spring. It's a small leak for now.

gmanpaint · November 30, 2014

We warmed up over freezing this weekend. Sprayed down the engine, trans, and shtuffs with degreaser, and hosed it off. Hoping this allows me to locate the oil leak location easier. :dunno:

Picked up a matching full size spare, but it's domed with no tread in the center. Need to keep looking for a better one, but this holds air at least. Tire came with a nice Centerline Alum 8" wheel, but it is 5 on 5.5"

gmanpaint · December 2, 2014

If anybody knows anybody or has a used set of 4:56 R&P for the 8.8 rear, please let me know.

Jakebrake kindly donated a set of 4:56 for the front. I want to try to get them installed asap. This rebuilt trans is holding up fine, but I don't want to push my luck too much running these 35's with 4:10's.

gmanpaint · December 20, 2014

So I swapped out the DPFE with one I grabbed from a junk yard. Still getting a 327 & 332 code. Guess I better pony up for a new DPFE

I need a new spring for the C-clip eliminator. The collar hasn't moved, and the spring is just loose as can be. The clack clack clack from the axle shaft going in & out is pretty obnoxious right now. Guess I need to research the correct spring others are using and tear this thing down. Ugh.

Leaks are developing more & more. Slow coolant loss, trans fluid drip, engine oil drip.

Even though this engine still runs very strong, and super smooth, I have a feeling at 243k miles, it's not going to last much longer, and I better start thinking about an engine swap soon.

gmanpaint · December 21, 2014

New DPFE installed, No more CEL.

Old one had water in it, and with below freezing temps, it freezes up and won't work correctly.

I know water can't be helped from combustion byproduct, but you would think they could figure a way to shield the components from this affecting it's ability to do it's job. :scratch:

gmanpaint · January 30, 2015

Info to install the Lunchbox in the TTB, and about the C-clip eliminator mod for future reference.

Standard manual.
http://www.aussielocker.com/downloads/2014 - Standard Installation Manual.pdf

Supplemental Info
http://www.aussielocker.com/downloads/XD-13527 - Supplement - Dana 35 Ford TTB.pdf

gmanpaint · January 30, 2015

Grr... Leaking coolant again, only this time, I can't find where it is coming from. That has me worried that the lower intake gasket is leaking in the back. :banghead:

And.... The roof was leaking and the headliner was dripping wet at the windshield. I searched for the entry point to discover the roof panel was cracked at one of the roof rack mounts. Crack is about 2" long. I used some JB weld, and then a rubberized patching compound. Hope it holds.

Oh.... Got a new full size matching spare tire ordered today.

gmanpaint · February 1, 2015

So the Clack Clack Clack I thought was the front axle shaft (because of the eliminator spring not doing it's job) Is actually a front disc brake pad.

I forgot to install the spacer / backer plate that these pads came with on the drivers side. The pad is smacking back & forth. Easy enough fix, when the weather eases up a bit. I think it's harmless as is, just annoying.

gmanpaint · February 6, 2015

Finally got the new spare tire today. :bounce:

What a relief that is. Been sweating it until today, as the one I had was bald as could be. :fart:

gmanpaint · March 26, 2015

So Spring is here, and that means Summer is around the corner. Pugly needs to have the A/C repaired before it gets too hot for me.

So last summer the main hose assembly developed a pinhole on the side of the larger black hose side, and leaked the coolant out. It has not been switched back on since.

Since I know where the leak is, and the system is empty, I will order a new hose from Rockauto and use our 5% discount code and replace it myself. I will also get some nylog lube for the green seals. 94 is the first year with the R134 system, and I wont have to worry about anything else except the right lube type from what I have read up on. Once it is back together, I will take it into a shop and let them vacuum test it, and charge it properly.

Now what I am not sure of is this:

Since it has sat for months with a hole in the system, has moisture seeped in and taken hold, causing issues elsewhere?

Should I replace the accumulator while I'm at it?

Anything else I should replace or do before I take it into the shop for a charge?

Any help / advice from anyone is appreciated! :thumbsup:

Turdle · March 26, 2015

new accumulator and orifice. I think the orifice is in the evaporator line. It not only "meters" the refrigerant flow but it also filters it, so a new one now is a good idea. I think you need to apply some vacuum to make sure the moisture is all out so yeah, maybe a pro should do it. Just tell them you bled the system to replace parts. Is there any pressure at all at the fill valve? If so I think it should be "dry" so to speak.

gmanpaint · March 26, 2015

Rodger that. Thanks Jon.

Rockauto has the fourseasons Orifice tube on wholesaler closeout for less then $10.

The Fourseasons Accumulator is another $40

The Fourseasons hose assembly is $80

The recharge done at the shop is $200 or so.

This is the only way I can afford to do this. If I didn't have an awesome set of TV repair tools, I would just be the fat man sweating at a free BBQ. No way I could pay a shop full price to do all this for some cold air.

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