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Wiring?

Tyleryac

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City, State
NJ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Ford Explorer XLT
I just got my explorer with a Sony stereo and when I pulled back the molding, i saw some wiring I haven't seen. I have wired aftermarket stereos in the past.

If I get a new stereo, should I just remove existing aftermarket wiring and hookup new wiring?

Thanks
 

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2 things.

1. On the bright side, you've got free wiring harnesses. You can just unwind all those twist caps.. and use the harness to hookup a new radio

2. That is a really, and I mean REALLY bad way to connect wires... Please, when you do it, use crimps.
 






2 things.

1. On the bright side, you've got free wiring harnesses. You can just unwind all those twist caps.. and use the harness to hookup a new radio

2. That is a really, and I mean REALLY bad way to connect wires... Please, when you do it, use crimps.

They are crimps in pic. So why are they bad??? They are not the threaded caps that you use in housing.
 






Thank you for the responses. I just ordered a JVC unit from Crutchfield.
 

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They are crimp caps. Crimping is a broad term and most of the time done with the wrong equipment. It's not one size fits all and the crimping tools (good ones) aren't cheap. I would take twist and tape over cheap crimps.

This is the best way and the way I do all my connections. Solder and heat shrink tube. I pulled my head unit out just to take this pic for you.

60b8ae38d7ce158747e75fb531ef34fe.jpg
 






Household wiring does not get bounced around or subjected to extreme environmental changes like in a vehicle. And it's normally stiffer larger gauge wire so twist caps are ok in your walls.
I'm a bit **** about my wiring. For the most part cap crimp, open ended crimps or simple twist & tape will work ok in a vehicle provided you take your time just like anything.

And never, ever leave it to the professionals. I get nervous just driving by one of those places :)
 






Cap 'Crimps' can be ripped right off unless put on with the proper $50 tool. They also take up a lot of room compared to other options. A proper butt connector crimp is the standard.
Twist and tape is also not a good idea. If you want to head in that route, it's solder and heat shrink.
If you went to a car audio shop that used the twist and tape method, the place would be empty and shut down shortly.
 






Proper crimps can create a small spot weld and work well. Unfortnetly most are done by a cheap tool like those sold in Radio shack or walmart. If you do crimp don't strip the wires too far (one major commen mistake) use the proper crimp for the guage wire. and tape the ends of the crimp. Crimp conecters by the, selfs have very poor insulation around the ends.

If you want to go all out solder, wich if done properly can solder back inside the original insulation wich eliminates any potentially week point.where the wire my freay from repeated bending. Heat shrink tube provides insulation and an air tight seal.
 


















Personally I agree with Cstoliker solder and heat shrink of course that is making the assumption the person knows how to properly solder without having cold solder joints.

Nice work BTW
 






Personally I agree with Cstoliker solder and heat shrink of course that is making the assumption the person knows how to properly solder without having cold solder joints.

Nice work BTW

Thanks. Solder and shrink tube is probably the easiest to screw up. A cold solder joint is worse then twist & tape. But I've screen crimps screwed up badly too. If your gonna solder just remember to heat your work, not your solder.
 






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