Sway bar bent? Stabilizer / sway bar links worn

So I replaced my sway bar links yesterday with Raybestos Professional Grade. Driver side went on with no problem. Passenger side was a really tight fit. Looks like the sway bar is lower on this side and end is pointing a bit to the floor. Driver side is about parallel with floor. Old links were really bad so I'm thinking it could have damaged the sway bar. Could the sway bar be bent? Does it need to be replaced or would it level itself off while driving? The passenger side of the truck is a half inch lower than driver's when measuring from floor to center of fender.

Old links


Driver side new link


Passenger side new link

That's not bad.. the bars aren't even broken in half yet.

For some reason the stock front sway bar eyelets point down. Have never heard an explanation why. The passenger side eyelet in your second pic does appear bent further down. If your sway bar was bent, installing the end links would have been very difficult, if not impossible. Looking at your bushings, they may not last long at those angles. Tighten non OEM end links with thermoplastic rubber bushings to about 10-12 foot pounds, no higher. (OEM 18-21 ft/lbs.) See replies #12 thru 14 linked below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363493


From Energy Suspension:

swshawaii said:

For some reason the stock front sway bar eyelets point down. Have never heard an explanation why. The passenger side eyelet in your second pic does appear bent further down. If your sway bar was bent, installing the end links would have been very difficult, if not impossible. Looking at your bushings, they may not last long at those angles. Tighten non OEM end links with thermoplastic rubber bushings to about 10-12 foot pounds, no higher. (OEM 18-21 ft/lbs.) See replies #12 thru 14 linked below.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=363493


From Energy Suspension:

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I had to force the link in there too be she to get the bolt thru. I thought I wasn't going to get it. If I shorten the link it would cause the sway bar to bend down more, no? Should I be looking at replacing it?

Did you tighten the end links with the tires straight and on the ground? Try snug up the bolts until the bushings slightly bulge.
The end link center sleeve determines the length. Are the sway bar frame brackets and bushings tight and in good condition?

swshawaii said:

Did you tighten the end links with the tires straight and on the ground? Try snug up the bolts until the bushings slightly bulge.
The end link center sleeve determines the length. Are the sway bar frame brackets and bushings tight and in good condition?

Click to expand...

Truck was jacked up. I might try that. Didn't want to tighten it too much and then risk not being able to remove it. What if I insert the bolt from bottom up, like stock links? I would think that could line up the bushings better.

They looked in good shape but doesn't hurt to replace just in case. No telling noise while driving either.

End links should always be installed with the suspension loaded. Installing the bolt with the nut on top can make it easier. You can also lift from the forward facing lower control arm "hooks" or put a jack under the bolt head to compress the LCA to get the nut started. Moog came out with a design that's easier to install and uses more durable polyurethane bushings instead of the ever failing thermoplastic rubber. Too late to exchange for the Moog K700542 end links? Click for more info on bottom of linked pdf.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/45...rel-solves-installation-problems#.VCBr9pRdVNs

swshawaii said:

End links should always be installed with the suspension loaded. Installing the bolt with the nut on top can make it easier. You can also lift from the forward facing lower control arm "hooks" or put a jack under the bolt head to compress the LCA to get the nut started. Moog came out with a design that's easier to install and uses more durable polyurethane bushings instead of the ever failing thermoplastic rubber. Too late to exchange for the Moog K700542 end links? Click for more info on bottom of linked pdf.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/45...rel-solves-installation-problems#.VCBr9pRdVNs

Click to expand...

I've seen it done both ways so I opted for the easier way without the tire for more room to work lol. There's probably no way I would have gotten the passenger side in if it was loaded.

Wasn't aware of that moog version. Might be an option if the bushings fail quickly. I'm not driving it this week so I'll take a look over the weekend if I can adjust it so it sits properly. But if sway bar is bent slightly downward I should replace, correct?

After some driving around it looks to have straightened itself out a bit.

Much better. Correct tightness is until the bushings slightly compress. Center sleeve should be barely able to turn by hand.

swshawaii said:

Much better. Correct tightness is until the bushings slightly compress. Center sleeve should be barely able to turn by hand.

Click to expand...

Nice tip! Had to give it a couple more turns on each side . Thanks for all the help!

swshawaii said:

End links should always be installed with the suspension loaded. Installing the bolt with the nut on top can make it easier. You can also lift from the forward facing lower control arm "hooks" or put a jack under the bolt head to compress the LCA to get the nut started. Moog came out with a design that's easier to install and uses more durable polyurethane bushings instead of the ever failing thermoplastic rubber. Too late to exchange for the Moog K700542 end links? Click for more info on bottom of linked pdf.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/45...rel-solves-installation-problems#.VCBr9pRdVNs

Click to expand...

Anyone have decent miles on these polyurethane Moog endlinks?

Back in March 2014, I replaced all 4 of my endlinks (front and rear), as 3 of them were broken. I replaced them with the Moog Problem solvers (polyurethane version) mentioned here, as I figured they were (1) more durable, (2) easier to install due to the barrel nut (which was true), and (3) might give a better driving feel.

Both front have broken, only 9 months into service. So I'm easily within the warranty (actually, they are limited lifetime). Both sides, the upper bushings are still attached to the sway bar, but everything else is long gone.

When I call Moog (owned by Federal-Mogul), I'm trying to decide if I want the same ones, or ask me to send the more basic Problem Solvers (thermoplastic bushings). I'm betting the polyurethane is just so stiff that any load goes straight to the rod.

Then again, I may have tightened them too much. There was not torque-spec given, and you can't use the "tighten til the bushings swell" with these. They may have been so tight that any bar motion was actually bending the rods?

So, which ones would you put back on? I'm better Moog will send me whichever I ask for.

Surprising, first time I've heard the new design Moog poly end links failing. The older style K7275 end link hardware is very strong, it's the blue thermoplastic bushings that are prone to failure. My final solution was using the old style 7/16" hardware with the largest ES 9.8103 bushings shown in post #10 linked below. Tried various combinations with repeated failures, these are going strong four years and counting. Tightened up the front end feel and handling, best cheap suspension mod I've done to date.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325617

After looking at that link (and the messed up blue bushings), I think I'll give the urethane Moogs another try, and try to be more intentional with the torque. I will ask to speak to a technical rep to get advice, since they do not specify.

Interested to hear what the Moog tech/rep has to say regarding end link torque. Any follow up would be greatly appreciated.

Used the Moogs, one of the front links failed after less then a year of use. Replaced with another set of Moogs. No failure with about 100k miles. I think they are very torque sensative.

Just replaced mine last week, as the drivers side endlink broke. I used the Moog Poly bushing endlink kit in hopes that they last a long time. Hanes manual for 2006+ Explorer states that they are to be torqued to 26ft/lbs which I had the torque wrench set to when tightening them down. To me this is way too much. The bushings started to completely deform well before the 26ft/lbs mark, so I just tightened them to a point where, with the suspension loaded, they just begin to bulge out and I left them.

I completly agree with PEAR0119. Don't use the specs, it appears to be way too tight. At least for long life.

how i have always done endlinks is i tighten them down to just when that start to squish a little. They dont need to be super Tight. they are holding anything down. they are just a "link" as in end link to transfer the torque from the bar to the control arm. so pretty much as long as there is some pressure in the bushing touching the bar and washer its good.

swshawaii said:

Interested to hear what the Moog tech/rep has to say regarding end link torque. Any follow up would be greatly appreciated.

Click to expand...

Moog technical service said that they use the same recommendation for either version (blue thermoplastic, or white polyurethane):
1. Tighten until you can no longer turn the center sleeve by hand.
2. Continue tightening for 2 more full revolutions.

I intend to use this procedure, but I will use a torque wrench to monitor torque. Once I'm into step #2 , it sounds like I don't want to get anywhere near 26 ft-lbs, even if I haven't reached 2 revolutions.

I'll report back.