Carguy3J
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- June 21, 2008
- Messages
- 1,525
- Reaction score
- 3
- City, State
- North East New Jersey
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '99 4dr. XLT SOHC A4WD
Ok guys, I could really use some advice here. I consider myself a pretty good mechanic, including diagnostics, and I feel a little stupid asking this stuff. However, I'm just not real familiar w/ the front drive train setup on these things, as I've never dug into one before.
I've got a '93 Ranger 4.0L-OHV / M5ROD 5-spd, manual t-case 4x4 w/ factory auto hubs.
From what I was told, it had sat for over a year before I got it. From the day I started driving it, the front end was making a crunching/whooshing/scraping sort of noise, when turning at all in either direction. Quiet (Relatively)when going straight. My first thought was wheel bearings I had a couple of shops take a quick look, and several suggested it may just be tire noise. (somewhat aggressive Cooper's) The tires were all worn evenly at this point. Now, 4 months later, the fronts are worn weird on the inside edges. By weird, I mean uneven height/tread depth on adjacent tread blocks (As if the tire were "hopping", so I guess it could be contributing to the noise, which hasn't really changed much.
Also, the t-case shift lever was "stuck" until recently. I soaked it w/ some "Kroil" ( like PB Blaster, but way better), and now it moves fine. The t-case seems to be ok, as I can shift it through the ranges. I can def. get into neutral, as well as 4lo, based on the rpm differences when moving. However, I don't seem to get any engagement in the front hubs.
Ok, now questions:
1.) First, front wheel bearings/spindle bearings? With the outer hub removed ( the part that usually falls off w/ the wheel), there is definite "play" up/down and side-to-side, of the axle stub shaft. Is this normal w/ the outer hub removed? Does the bearing in the hub support the end of the axle shaft, such that this play is expected w/ the hub removed? If not, then would you suggest it indicates inner and/or outer wheel bearings, or the "spindle bearing"? Is it relatively easy to change? It looks like, from the exploded diagrams I can find, that it should be relatively easy to access everything, including removing the spindle itself, from the "outside" without having to touch the pumpkin/beams,etc... Is this true? Is the spindle bearing/seal pressed into the inner end of the spindle much like a wheel bearing?
2.) Auto Hubs / engagement and condition:
a.) When I turn the front driveshaft and/or axle shafts by hand, it feels like they hubs start to lock/catch, but w/ a little more force on the shaft, the hubs "pop" loose.
b.) They appear to be in good condition, generally. I don't see any broken pieces or anything obvious. However, the splined "cup" in the outer end of the hub feels a little sloppy (ie, where the bearing is, in the end of the hub. I thought I read that this bearing is replaceable, if you know what to buy. True? Or is a little play normal (side-to-side wiggle of the splined cup) Is there a complete rebuild/overhaul kit available for the auto hubs? How about a detailed how-to thread on taking them apart?
c.) They do appear to be pretty well packed w/ grease. I also remember reading that that can be a problem, but I'm a little hesitant to flush them out w/ tranny fluid or anything. Is this a good idea to try?
d.) I was under the impression, from a thread I had read on here, that the plastic cam should not be able to be slid off the axle shaft, until the snap ring is removed. I was able to easily slip the cam assembly off, and back on, by hand, and w/o removing any other parts. Is this indicative of a problem? Also, where is the spring, that I've also read about, that's supposed to keep tension on the whole thing? I don't see any springs involved, except for the "garter" spring around the cam assembly.
Oh, and before somebody says it, manual hubs, or new auto's, aren't an option right now. If these hubs are bad, then the only choice, due to finances, would be to try some junkyard auto hubs. Normally, I wouldn't even be asking. Under better circumstances, if I suspected anything was wrong, it would already be apart, with brand new everything all ready on the way. Unfortunately, I need to keep it running as cheap as possible right now.
Anybody, who really knows these 1st gen setups, have any thoughts/suggestions? I still don't even quite grasp how these things functions. Is all the stress/torque going to the front wheels really on that little plastic cam assembly, and it's "teeth" meshing with those on the hub?
- Thanks
PS. Also a little confusion on wheel bearings/seals. It looks like, according to Autozone and Napa websites, that the Dana35 uses the same wheel bearing and seals for both the inner and outer. Is this correct? Timken "Set37" bearings (Cup+Cone) x4 / and Timken "4250" Seals, also x4
I've got a '93 Ranger 4.0L-OHV / M5ROD 5-spd, manual t-case 4x4 w/ factory auto hubs.
From what I was told, it had sat for over a year before I got it. From the day I started driving it, the front end was making a crunching/whooshing/scraping sort of noise, when turning at all in either direction. Quiet (Relatively)when going straight. My first thought was wheel bearings I had a couple of shops take a quick look, and several suggested it may just be tire noise. (somewhat aggressive Cooper's) The tires were all worn evenly at this point. Now, 4 months later, the fronts are worn weird on the inside edges. By weird, I mean uneven height/tread depth on adjacent tread blocks (As if the tire were "hopping", so I guess it could be contributing to the noise, which hasn't really changed much.
Also, the t-case shift lever was "stuck" until recently. I soaked it w/ some "Kroil" ( like PB Blaster, but way better), and now it moves fine. The t-case seems to be ok, as I can shift it through the ranges. I can def. get into neutral, as well as 4lo, based on the rpm differences when moving. However, I don't seem to get any engagement in the front hubs.
Ok, now questions:
1.) First, front wheel bearings/spindle bearings? With the outer hub removed ( the part that usually falls off w/ the wheel), there is definite "play" up/down and side-to-side, of the axle stub shaft. Is this normal w/ the outer hub removed? Does the bearing in the hub support the end of the axle shaft, such that this play is expected w/ the hub removed? If not, then would you suggest it indicates inner and/or outer wheel bearings, or the "spindle bearing"? Is it relatively easy to change? It looks like, from the exploded diagrams I can find, that it should be relatively easy to access everything, including removing the spindle itself, from the "outside" without having to touch the pumpkin/beams,etc... Is this true? Is the spindle bearing/seal pressed into the inner end of the spindle much like a wheel bearing?
2.) Auto Hubs / engagement and condition:
a.) When I turn the front driveshaft and/or axle shafts by hand, it feels like they hubs start to lock/catch, but w/ a little more force on the shaft, the hubs "pop" loose.
b.) They appear to be in good condition, generally. I don't see any broken pieces or anything obvious. However, the splined "cup" in the outer end of the hub feels a little sloppy (ie, where the bearing is, in the end of the hub. I thought I read that this bearing is replaceable, if you know what to buy. True? Or is a little play normal (side-to-side wiggle of the splined cup) Is there a complete rebuild/overhaul kit available for the auto hubs? How about a detailed how-to thread on taking them apart?
c.) They do appear to be pretty well packed w/ grease. I also remember reading that that can be a problem, but I'm a little hesitant to flush them out w/ tranny fluid or anything. Is this a good idea to try?
d.) I was under the impression, from a thread I had read on here, that the plastic cam should not be able to be slid off the axle shaft, until the snap ring is removed. I was able to easily slip the cam assembly off, and back on, by hand, and w/o removing any other parts. Is this indicative of a problem? Also, where is the spring, that I've also read about, that's supposed to keep tension on the whole thing? I don't see any springs involved, except for the "garter" spring around the cam assembly.
Oh, and before somebody says it, manual hubs, or new auto's, aren't an option right now. If these hubs are bad, then the only choice, due to finances, would be to try some junkyard auto hubs. Normally, I wouldn't even be asking. Under better circumstances, if I suspected anything was wrong, it would already be apart, with brand new everything all ready on the way. Unfortunately, I need to keep it running as cheap as possible right now.
Anybody, who really knows these 1st gen setups, have any thoughts/suggestions? I still don't even quite grasp how these things functions. Is all the stress/torque going to the front wheels really on that little plastic cam assembly, and it's "teeth" meshing with those on the hub?
- Thanks
PS. Also a little confusion on wheel bearings/seals. It looks like, according to Autozone and Napa websites, that the Dana35 uses the same wheel bearing and seals for both the inner and outer. Is this correct? Timken "Set37" bearings (Cup+Cone) x4 / and Timken "4250" Seals, also x4