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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 



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blow off valve

Oh crap that is funny, I really thought it was you! lol.
 



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Awesome! Those 5L really run smooth with the stock cam. It's been a while since I drove one of those. :)
It sounds great!
 






Ya, the motor has a shake at idle, but that's not the cam. Wish I knew what it was.

That blow off valve isn't just one 'pop'. its kind of a flutter. I was reading about the hks bov's and the noise appears to be normal.

My rear main is starting to leak again, so that means I wouldn't bother swapping heads with the motor in. If the motors out, and the heads are getting swapped, that would mean a new cam would go in. Something in the very low .5's without much overlap would still keep me very 'stock' and help the air move thru the motor.
I keep seeing guys having great luck with the ford E and F cams, but I think I'd probably go custom just because I don't want to change cam's twice.

I'm happy with the very 'stock' feel of the truck. It has excellent manners still, along with great gas mileage. I average 18.2 mpg so Id easily be over the 20's on the highway. It does lack the wow factor of a supercharged motor not having that off the line torque though.
 






i think they all have a shake in them once you start playing around with them. that and you have to remember how old those mounts are now as well.
as for the blow off valve, one friend that has a grand prix gt that did a turbo sounds the same.
i was also thinking this. if you think about it, you and i have this sort of friendly competition going on now.
"hey, i'm going supercharged"
"hey, i'm going turbo'd"
"hey, i'm going stroked"
"hey, i'm going heads, cam, intake, intercooled and a small shot of nitrous to get my turbo spooling a bit faster off the line"
damn good thing you cant fit a v10 in one of these things, or
"hey, i just bought a sawzall!"
".......why......???"
"dont worry about it....."
lol
 






Explorer

V10? .....
You wouldn't!

Sorry to hear about the rear main seal Dono. Oil leaks can be frustrating.
Sounds like a job for next season. And yea, if you have the engine out why not a few upgrades.
 






Amazing!
 






i was also thinking this. if you think about it, you and i have this sort of friendly competition going on now.
"hey, i'm going supercharged"
"hey, i'm going turbo'd"
"hey, i'm going stroked"
"hey, i'm going heads, cam, intake, intercooled"
damn good thing you cant fit a v10 in one of these things, or
"hey, i just bought a sawzall!"
".......why......???"
"dont worry about it....."
lol

I'm just trying to keep an eye on your tail lights.
Once I have the tuning down without so much as a hint of detonation, I will have to twist the boost controller for a few more lbs of boost once the intercooler is functional. I 'might' need a small shot of nitrous to get my turbo spooling a bit faster off the line. :D

Competition? What competition??

Thanks Greg! Boys and their toys. At least we are amusing each other.
 












Explorer

LOL

+1 on the nitrous too!
 






Not to stray off the topic but I have strongly been considering building a supercharged 4.0 SOHC with the long block courtesy of SuperSix Mororsports, with my rationale being I already have a host of aftermarket bolt on parts that would cross over nicely. Thank God for working in Alberta I say or this kid from New Brunswick would never have the resources to pull off something like that! If only there were good engine builders in my hometown, this kind of project is probably gonna require a road trip somewhere so I have access to a 4x4 dyno.
 












did i mention fordstrokers has a payment plan?
:D

Your killing me here!

That being said, I do have an email in to Woody.

My issue is that my ported gt40p heads with larger valves may not flow enough for a larger ci motor. So If I abandon my high end gt40p's, I have another problem........The $1000.00 torquemonster headers. I understand they are small anyway, and not the best solution, but I really don't see them as an issue for my turbo build. If I understand my research correctly, the best I could expect with 10 lbs boost is 10 lbs backpressure in the exhaust. This means the headers are not a restriction in my application, the turbo is.

So, can a 347 be made to work well with massaged gt40p's, a streetheat intake, custom cam, and a turbo? I could find someone to build me a smaller motor locally, but attention to detail is the difference between success and failure. Id really prefer someone that specializes in SBF's that knows the details build me a shortblock.

What I'd like to do is keep the motor smaller and let the boost get me to about 400 rear wheel hp. To turn up the boost, all I need to do is turn my boost controller knob.

So, lets see what Woody thinks about this.
 






I was thinking through those same issues a long while back, what's the best size of engine(302/332/347), plus heads, at what boost, given a certain 302 block. I was planning ahead for using a stock block, and not trying to make so much power that the front axles, driveshaft etc, would be a big problem.

I think around 500rwhp is a great limit to put on these trucks, and hopefully that's not too high for a stock block or other unknown weak links.

Anyone can achieve that kind of power with a stroker and plenty of boost, but the choices for heads, headers, exhaust and cam etc, those will define where the power ends up.

As an example, if you maximize everything except the heads(GT40's), you can still end up way over 500hp. But if you use a small exhaust(one muffler and the TM headers), then the smaller heads might not get it there.

I thought about trying to get Woody to build a 302, but I really don't think he'd do one unless it was for a friend on the side. He is still covered up with work, he literally has 2-3 months of work to do all the time. His business has been that way since he began his current method, strokers etc, and it was at $1899 for a complete 247 shortblock. He has moved about $500 up, for all engine sizes, and the backlog of work remains long.



So for a turbo combination like you have now Don, if you can get the right heads, and intake manifold, exhaust, custom cam, then the 302 to 306 engine can reach your goals. Choose where best to spend the money, balance the sizes/matching of the critical parts.

The turbo does let you force more through the smaller exhaust than other combinations, but it isn't a big difference. A bigger exhaust would still help.

The HP goals should make you get a well built transmission also, before finishing the engine combo. So I'd budget that in early on, and get that in the works.


BTW, on the SBFtech forum, there was a set of TFS TW 195's for sale there for $900, around 6-8 weeks ago. That was a good deal and a great upgrade over any GT40 heads. I'm beginning to look for a similar TFS TW head, used, for my 302 V8 swap later for my 99 Explorer. For a mild NA 302, I'm after a head upgrade like the TFS TW 175's, but the 195's will do well also for a 10:1 engine. I expect to end up with at least 50rwhp over stock. Keep an eye out for those best parts, many used items are a great alternative to new parts, or in this case building up stock GT40 heads, versus far better TW heads. Regards,
 






Off topic here, but interested in opinions on gasoline grades.

Its winter here now, and I figured since I cant really step on the gas without bad things happening I'd try a tank of mid grade gas.

Well, a few miles down the road my truck is running like crap. Sputtering, no overdrive, etc. Im thinking Tranny? WTF?
I Shut the ignition off for a moment, and restart the truck. Check Engine.
So, out comes the SCT from the centre console, and out comes the codes. A Christmas tree of them.
Oxygen sensors 1 and 2 bank 1
Oxygen sensors 1 and 2 bank 1
Shift solenoid A shorted
Another shift solenoid A error
Shift solenoid B

Whoa....Whats going on? I get home, and manage to get a syphon hose gown the patients throat and started syphoning gas in to any container I could find. Then a shaky sputter drive to a different gas station and a fresh fill with Premium and octaine boost.

Guess what? 3 miles later the trans shifted in to overdrive as it should. I stopped at the next light and was able to drive away without struggling to get going. Definitely gas.

So the question is, is it bad gas? I really can't imagine going from premium gas to mid-grade would cause that big of an issue.

I would have expected greater risk of detonation under load, but not a truck that isn't driveable. And the transmission codes? wow. Not to mention the $100.00 I have in various jugs in the garage, along with the not so pleasant taste of gas in my mouth.
 






Bad Gas

I would not think that bad gas would cause all that but weird things do happen some times.
I would look to see if the O2 sensor heaters and shift solenoids share the same battery voltage wire(vpwr), you may have a problem with that.
If the problem never comes back then maybe that gas was defective.
 






It sure is strange, that's for sure.
The o2 sensors I get, but the trans codes? Very strange.
I drove to work this morning, and the truck ran great.

I really don't want to put this gas back in to any of my vehicles though.
 






vpwr 1.jpg
wiring


O2's and trans run off the same vpwr circuit.
I don't think it was bad gas.
 






Yup, that about covers the codes I saw.
Very strange.

So, How do I read that schematic?
Which fuse box, and which fuse?

Is that the fuse box just under the hood on the drivers side?
 






I might be reaching here--but bad gas might cause such a power loss as to cause you to push the accelerator enough to unlock the torque converter due to the throttle position sensor signal. Just a thought.
 



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Yes, the only code missing from that schematic is the TPS code that popped up. The torque converter was not locking up.

Its just so strange that within 2 miles of driving after filling with fresh gas the issue went away. I guess if the problem doesn't come back, its a good thing. I'm still going to see if the gas company will take the gas back and issue a credit to me for another tank of gas.

Really, how do I even get rid of all that gas? It's funny how no one will even return any of your phone calls when you start asking these sorts of questions. I'm sure everyone thinks I'm crazy.
 






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