How to: - Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor | Page 9 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
Have you tried driving it anywhere? I'm thinking the T-case is cold causing the shift motor to be unable to move it... Once it warms up it will definitely have an easier time shifting. I assume you hear the relays clicking in the back correct?
 



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dont hear any thing yes i have been driving it 30 to 40 miles at a time and trying to get it to do any thing while im driving i push the button while im driving while im at a stop sign at 40 miles a hours and 10 miles a hour also tried it with the power on but the engion off clutch pressed and not pressed
 






luckley i have manual hubs so i can un lock them
 






dont hear any thing yes i have been driving it 30 to 40 miles at a time and trying to get it to do any thing while im driving i push the button while im driving while im at a stop sign at 40 miles a hours and 10 miles a hour also tried it with the power on but the engion off clutch pressed and not pressed

Well if you don't hear anything the 4x4 computer isn't doing anything... Usually when you have a problem you'll hear the relays clicking and then nothing (shift motor does zip).. Did you hear the relays before and is the fuse ok?
 






wher do i find the fuze
the light lits up saying it is in 4/4
 












pulled it this afternoon lit it hang and pushed the button it went back cycled it a couple times re instaled it afraid to push it again
i think i have a weak motor how do you fix that ?
rocha thanks for your help
 






i pushed the test button on the computer and a red light came on and stayed on for almost a minuit what does that meen ?
 






pulled it this afternoon lit it hang and pushed the button it went back cycled it a couple times re instaled it afraid to push it again
i think i have a weak motor how do you fix that ?
rocha thanks for your help

Cleaning it is the only way.. that and making sure the T-Case selector shaft moves freely.. If you seldom use 4x4 the shaft can gradually get harder and harder to move... Sort of like never using the E-brake and then one day using it and it stays on and won't release... I would get some nice pliers and rotate the T-case selector shaft through all its positions a bunch of times. While doing this you can feel how hard it is to move the shaft and if it loosens up some..

i pushed the test button on the computer and a red light came on and stayed on for almost a minuit what does that meen ?
Pushing the button without removing the wire harness connector on the right side means nothing..
 












de rocha tell me more aboutis removing the wire harness connector on the right side it the one that hanges to the tab on the top with 6 wires going to the black box on the right side
 












i also did a a4ld to m5od swap. swaped out the wire harness and did not cut any wires. now that it is done i cant get it to go into 4 low. when it was in the m50d doner truck it worked well.
 






Would anyone have a FORD Part No# for the bushing (cushion) on the back of the large gear? Part No# or something I can use in its place. Rebuilding motor and the bushing is broke into a dozen pieces.
Was thinking maybe some vacuum line or something. Any ideas would be great.
 






Bluoval: We use rubber gas line, it works great !
 






What size fuel line? I would guess the wall thickness would make a difference.
If fuel line works, that would be awrsome, I may get this done before dinner..
 






What size fuel line? I would guess the wall thickness would make a difference.
If fuel line works, that would be awrsome, I may get this done before dinner..

5/16"
 






She's fixed! Share my joy!

I want to thank Brain and all the other posters. The shift motor overhaul information here (and in the Singleton thread) is excellent, better than any shop manual.

I fixed mine this past Sunday. It was the classic problem: The plastic bushing was shattered into lots of tiny pieces, some of which got ground up in the gears. I replaced it with the suggested piece of fuel line and cleaned the motor commutator and the position sensor contacts.

I got it all back together and tested, just as the first few snowflakes appeared. As it turned out, I didn't need 4WD, but when I got to work on Monday, I did a few victory laps in the unplowed part of the parking lot. I made some nice alien 4-wheeler crop circles:D

It even seems to shift into 4WD faster, with less delay.

Cost of hardened T-20 security Torx bit (my cheap one twisted) $5.00
Cost of fuel line: $0.00
Sound of 4WD engaging (click, click, clunk) and sight of "4X4" lamps: Pricless!

Brain, et al, I salute you:salute:

Bob
 






so i took apart my t-case motor this morning while most of my friends are taking the SATs haha and wouldn't you know it a broken bushing!!!! haha. i'm waiting for my friend to give me a ride to like pepboys or home depot or something to find a replacement. hopefully it will work now. and since i'm 16 and don't have a job and only like $6 it's good that i'm learning how to fix my explorer instead of paying someone like $500 haha.

thanks for the help and i'll let you guys know if it works or not!
 



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This has been a very usefull and interesting thread. I've had my 97 Explorer Sport for about 2 1/2 years but rarely drove it except to pull my boat since it is my wifes car. I never knew for sure if it ran in 4WD since I'd never experienced it before and didn't notice any difference. After reading this thread I checked Autozone for the price of a new transfer case motor and purchased it for $109.00 and waited for the weather to warm up a bit. Well it warmed up enough today so I climbed under the car and installed it and discovered that this car has never been in 4WD since I owned it even though the 4WD lights lit up, Until Today. Now I know what 4WD is.

Next project is to replace a door handle and then do a transmission valve body rebuild with a Transgo shift kit.

Thanks to all!
 






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