Warning To All Ford Ecoboost Owners! | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Warning To All Ford Ecoboost Owners!

Definitely.

Makuloco2000: For those of us with the 2.0L, Is there a chance you could explain how to access the PVC line without a complete disassembly and tell us the best or simplest way to plum in a oil "Catch Can" to help with this problem...it might make an interesting follow up video and really help us out....thanks Plum
 



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Makuloco2000: For those of us with the 2.0L, Is there a chance you could explain how to access the PVC line without a complete disassembly and tell us the best or simplest way to plum in a oil "Catch Can" to help with this problem...it might make an interesting follow up video and really help us out....thanks Plum

I'm on the same boat. I would really like to find a video where to install an oil catch can for the 2.0L Ecoboost on my Fusion and find out any other preventative measures.
 






Makuloco2000: For those of us with the 2.0L, Is there a chance you could explain how to access the PVC line without a complete disassembly and tell us the best or simplest way to plum in a oil "Catch Can" to help with this problem...it might make an interesting follow up video and really help us out....thanks Plum

With the 2.0l ecoboost the pcv connects onto the backside and would be quite hard to pull off with the intake on. The intake is small and only has a few 10mm bolts and it comes off and then there is tons of room for any kind of catch can you want to plum in.
 






Vw had the same problem when they launched the gas 2.0 turbo direct injection engine back in 2005 ish. As a factory trained tech we would clean the backs of the valves with little brushes. Cheesiest solution but it worked. An update to the pcv system was the answer.
 






Vw had the same problem when they launched the gas 2.0 turbo direct injection engine back in 2005 ish. As a factory trained tech we would clean the backs of the valves with little brushes. Cheesiest solution but it worked. An update to the pcv system was the answer.

That is what I am hoping to see as a solution from Ford.
 






I have a '13 Sport, 17k miles. I drive it hard every once in a while, and only run 92 octane (highest I can get here...) and every once in a while I will run a bottle of octane boost through the tank. Car runs solid. The tailpipe soot is NORMAL. My Z06 has even more soot but that's probably because it's a 405+hp car ;)
 






If the carbon build up is causing the cold engine stumble, why didnt my Mazda Speed6 have that issue?

It was also turbocharged and direct injected. I owned that for 7 years and ~60k miles and didn't have any issues with cold engine stumbling. Carbon buildup was an issue on that vehicle as well.

I agree that it is an issue and Ford should have a process for cleaning it out(other than the chemical method that doesn't really work).

And soot buildup, again, welcome to forced induction and overly rich factory tunes. Hell, my supercharged Mustang has that issue and that's not overly rich.
 






catch can

As promised here is the follow up with my findings and the fix for the 2.0l Ecoboost I mentioned in the previous video. What it came down to was excessive coking on the backside of the intake valves and by doing a simple 5 minute cleaning the problem was eliminated. Now whether there is also a valve stem seal leak on #2 is yet to be determined.

In conclusion there is a definite issue with carbon and oil coking on the intake valves that needs to be addressed sooner than later by Ford with some kind of a cleaning method. As mentioned in the video if there is anything substantial that comes down the pipe from Ford on how to resolve this issue in the long term I will be sure to let all you Ecoboost owner know.

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i see you said the 2.0L what about the 3.5L? same issues?? concerns?
should i install a catch can on my 14 Sport 3.5L?
 






i see you said the 2.0L what about the 3.5L? same issues?? concerns?
should i install a catch can on my 14 Sport 3.5L?

It does not seem to be an issue with the 3.5L in the explorer or the cars yet but the F150 is another animal so I would say yours is good for now.
 






It does not seem to be an issue with the 3.5L in the explorer or the cars yet but the F150 is another animal so I would say yours is good for now.

I have the same motor in my explorer sport that the f-150 has correct??

so wouldnt the cars have the same problem the f-150's are having?

not sure what problems the f-150's are having??

same as the 2.0l? :salute:
 






There are no free lunches. If turbos were the perfect solution to getting big horsepower out of smaller engines no one would make a naturally aspirated engine anymore.

IMG_5661_zpsbaf99880.jpg
 






I have the same motor in my explorer sport that the f-150 has correct??

so wouldnt the cars have the same problem the f-150's are having?

not sure what problems the f-150's are having??

same as the 2.0l? :salute:

The 3.5l ecoboost is the same yes but everything around the base engine is what is different in the F150 and causing unique problems we just don't see in other applications.
 






The 3.5l ecoboost is the same yes but everything around the base engine is what is different in the F150 and causing unique problems we just don't see in other applications.

the base??? i apologize but can you explain further??? :salute:
 


















Welcome to force induction and direct injection. This was/is a known issue with my old MazdaSpeed6 with the 2.3 DI turbo. Intake valves would build up carbon due to the egr system. Without the valve washdown from the injectors, carbon can build up on the valves.

As stated earlier, walnut shell blasting was/is a highly effective solution to cleaning the valves(short of pulling the head off and cleaning/replacing).

Typically when you add boost to an engine, you need to add extra fuel to keep the combustion chamber cooler to prevent detonation or even melting of pistons. Direct injection reduces the need to add excessive fuel and you can lean it out slightly.

My superchaged mustang has a soot "issue" as well, but I don't worry about it.

Driving softly is another cause. Wind the engine out once in a while. That will help with the carbon build up in the engine and turbo to some degree. Not a perfect solution, but it does help.

On the video about the 2:30-2:45 mark, I'm not following his explanation. How would carbon build up on the intake valves cause a cylinder to run leaner? If there is carbon build up, that cylinder would be getting less air and run richer, not the other way around.

I have a 05 Saab 9-5 Aero and the carbon thing is unavoidable. Plug type and putting a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel cleaner every oil change. Depending on how much you like to max boost it relates to how much you wipe off your exhaust tips. But for my 2.3 4 banger, performance remains constant regardless.
 






Honestly, everyone is overreacting to the whole carbon buildup debacle. I have one of the supposedly horrible VW 2.0T FSI engines in my car (the first generation VWAG GTDI bread and butter engine), with 108k miles, and carbon buildup is not a problem on my car, unless you count the permanently black tailpipes. And my car uses a quart of oil every 5000 or so miles, so I know the valves are getting plenty of gunk put on them.

Part of the stumbling when the vehicle is cold is by design! VW, and I'm assuming Ford, significantly delay the spark for the first couple of minutes of engine operation to warm up the catalysts. My car is rather rough for sure the first 1-2 minutes of operation. Ford goes one step further and runs an Atkinson cycle sometimes to force a bit of gas on the intake valves to help keep them clean. Pretty brilliant, but I can see how that'd make the car stumble and be rough a bit.

Another thing that should theoretically help keep your valves cleaner is running minimum 91 octane at all times. My car consistently runs a slightly richer fuel mixture (14.5:1 vs 14.7:1) with 87 octane fuel. It has to run a richer fuel mixture to keep the catalysts from overheating, but it also causes lower cylinder temperatures, and pulls spark timing, which can result in incomplete combustion and more tailpipe soot...in addition to using a bit more fuel obviously. The intake valves on the VW are supposedly cleaned by high cylinder temperatures, I am assuming it wouldn't hurt the Ford either. Also, a monthly Italian tuneup --- does the engine good. If I floor my car after babying it for a while, a glorious cloud of carbon is expunged from the engine in the fashion of an early 80s Mercedes diesel. Do it twice, and there's almost no noticeable smoke. Make sure your engine is fully warmed up before doing that of course...
 






How about just adding a water/alcohol injection kit? Wouldn't this keep the valves clean?

What about the old timers solution to removing carbon deposits? inducing a little bit of regular water into the intake, it will steam the carbon off and shouldn't hurt anything. A little water at a time from a spray bottle should do the trick, Don't you think?
 






How about just adding a water/alcohol injection kit? Wouldn't this keep the valves clean?

What about the old timers solution to removing carbon deposits? inducing a little bit of regular water into the intake, it will steam the carbon off and shouldn't hurt anything. A little water at a time from a spray bottle should do the trick, Don't you think?

I think for the kind of deposits we are seeing here with baked on oil it may not do much at all I would be very interested to see one of these mushroomed carboned up intake valves be cleaned to normal condition with the water clean method.
 



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