A/C hose assembly questions

So my 1993 Explorer chucked a clutch bearing on the compressor and took the compressor with it. It was an R12 system converted to 134a by the previous owner. I am in the process of replacing the compressor, drier (and orifice), and the hose assembly from the compressor to the condenser and drier. It makes more sense to me to replace the drier and hose assembly from a 1994 Explorer as they would already be 134a fittings and I plan on recharging with 134a anyway. Upon looking up parts online I see they look identical except the 1994 hose assembly has a fitting coming out of the side of the little filter/drier/widespot in the line from the compressor to the condenser. Anyone know what this fitting is for?

The 1994 hose doesn't have R-134a fittings (at least the older ones don't), even though they did come "converted" to R-134a for the 1994 model year. The same R-12 schrader valves are used and you'll need to screw on the R-134a adapters. There may be new ones with R-134a fittings, but I haven't seen them.

The plug coming out the side of the in-line filter on the 1994 hose is for a pressure sensor. Since the system was an R12 system and all they did was use a larger compressor (The FS10), with a R134a pressure switch and orifice tube, and stick R134a in, there was concern about the higher pressures of R-134a, and so the sensor was a safety system to slow down or shut off the compressor if pressures rose too high.

You don't need the 1994 hose on a 1993, it's pointless and way more expensive just for an electrical connector that can't be hooked up. You CAN get the sensors and pressure system from a 1994, but usually it's cost prohibitive unless you can get a parts vehicle for cheap or have someone who is parting out pull what you need.

I would suggest getting the aftermarket R-134a pressure switch (the stock switch is for R12) AND either the R-134a orifice tube or a variable pressure orifice tube (they make one for "normal" climates and one for "severe" climates, I'd suggest the "normal" one if you don't live where temperatures are regularly over 100 degrees) instead of the 1994 hose.

You should also get the liquid line (shorter hose) and seriously consider replacing the condenser and/or evaporator if the compressor went bad and the system has any debris in it. You MIGHT be able to flush the condenser and evaporator clear with enough cleaner, but if it's really bad (usually a compressor that goes gets oil and metal shards all in the system, referred to as "black death") you will just have to replace EVERTHING to avoid future issues.

Also, it doesn't really matter what brand hose assembly you buy, or where you buy, you will usually just get whatever there is. You can buy from Ford or buy online from the aftermarket brands and get the same exact thing. You might get an assembly with goodyear hoses, you might get an assembly with some other brand of hoses attached.

I bought the hoses from Advance Auto Parts with their online coupons (they have $50 off $100+ coupons every week or so) for the best deal for both hoses, o-ring kit, receiver/drier, pressure switch, and orifice tube.

The newer replacement hoses do have 134a connections on them. I am wanting to replace mine as the filter is extremely rusty and looks like it could develop into a problem at some point. I though maybe I could upgrade to 134a ports also. I wasn't interested in the electrical connectors.
I'm thinking I will replace everything with 1993 parts and use existing pressure switches as they are since the system worked very well until the clutch took the compressor.

Oh and thanks for all of the information.

If the system on yours was converted with the original hoses, those were only designed for R-12 (as in, the rubber parts of the hose were not designed to trap the much smaller R-134a molecules, R-12 molecules are larger) so the new hoses will be an improvement, as ALL hoses are now made with the improved "barrier hose" for R-134a, even for systems that can use R-12. The new hoses also use alloy or aluminized metal on the fitting ends and for the filter, so rust shouldn't be a concern any longer.

The stock compressor might have been the lighter-duty FX-15, which isn't nearly as robust as the larger, heavy-duty (and heavier) FS10, which would explain why it went.

I would seriously urge you to use a new R-134a pressure switch, orifice tube (or variable orifice tube), and get new o-rings for the rest of the system. The new (green color) o-rings will seal R-134a, where the old black rubber o-rings for an R-12 system will not. You may as well spend the minor amount of money it takes to do these things, as it could save your system from leaks or worse in the future.

Yes I am planning on doing all of that as I'm sure the hoses are original, based on appearance. I'm not sure what compressor it has but will be doing the FS10.
How do I know what pressure switch to use? Do I buy one for conversion or do I go with a 1994 and up switch? I'm not sure if the existing switches have been updated or not but will assume not and replace anyway.