My 5R55E transmission is leaking transmission fluid, and I have no reverse gear.

So I made the switch and am now an "Elite" member as of 5 minutes ago.


On another note, I went to pick up my "New" 99 Sport today - Ive been paying on it a while and just paid it all off today............I knew that it had no REV, I was ready to just do the VB updates, replace EPC, as soon as I got it home (about 65 miles).Before I left the sellers I filled trans fluid (about 2 QT low) and it cascaded out the back of the trans pan (Passenger Side Rear-ish).

So I went to CarQuest and got a new pan gasket and Filter, Installed, torqued to proper specs, 6 QT Merc V and off we go right?.................No.

My buddy followed behind in my sisters Explorer and chirped me on the Nextel "Yeah, Um leaking - no, make that spewing fluid....smoking etc.." We pulled off and I retorqued the bolts, and had Kev put it in gear while I was under looking. Yeah it looked like it was puking fluid from the same spot on the trans gasket again?!

I know this: The fluid SPRAYS when in REV, In DRIVE it is a steady slow stream. All Fluid is leaking from what looks like the trans pan gasket on the same side as the servos and trans dipstick tube. It is NOT the servos or Dip-tube or the lines (all clean and dry). The trans pan gasket mating surface is clean and the gasket is good quality (WIX) and bolts are troqued correctly.

COULD IT BE that the VB sep plate gasket is sufficiently blown enough to allow LINE PRESSURE into the pan/sump area causing subsiquent failure of pan gasket? OR am I missing another possible cause of the leak????

Please help (This is my work truck and it is currently stranded 65 Miles away) I have no idea what to do right now. No truck, no job...

Sorry so wordy, jus trying to be as thorough as possible.

Bump Anyone?

I guess I'll call Central VB tomorrow to order a VB... I am just afraid to put it in this trans with the way it is leaking. I really need some insight.

I did got to the JY today and took down a VB for a 5r55e (it was toast) but I did it so that I could get a feel before I did it to my DD. and to get some ideas as to why it would be leaking.
What I discovered on the JY Explorer :



The only thing I can think is that the 98 Explorer that I took down the VB from was soaked underneath just like mine... I noticed that the (Main Reverse Servo????) the servo that mounts to the large round opening on Sep Plate---see pic below (Pic borrowed from Glaciers Rebuild Diary)

The gasket was blown out severely, the o-rings on the servo were shot as well. AND IT is RIGHT NEXT TO WHERE MY LEAK IS!! Could this be where all the pressure is coming from?

If that's the case would replacing the VB (with all updates) and Servo o-rings/gasket and Bonded Sep-Plate correct the gushing issue?

Again I am sorry this is so wordy...I'm trying to be as thorough as possible.

Einstien Moment :scratch:

If there would be enough pressure to blow out the trans pan gasket wouldn't the fluid first go up and run out the trans dipstick tube? It didn't even when I had the dipstick out when the truck was running.

Maybe my transmission pan is warped? It's gotta be that:scratch::scratch::scratch:

I ordered a new transmission pan and the reverse servo (the circle guy in above pics) o-rings and cover plate gasket $81 for all. I am hoping that this will alt least get my truck home where I can work the VB over. Has anyone else had a leak like this?
........................................................................................................
-Gushes in REV

-Leaks a steady stream moderately in D

-No Leaks in Neutral / Park

-All leaks coming from Pan Gasket in the rear passenger side (just beneath the REV servo assy inside the pan)

-New gasket & Filter

Anyone?

Do you have a 0-300 PSI test gauge? Test the pressure on the main port, then on the EPC port.

BrooklnBay: Thank you (Crickets Gone Away ) I don't have a Pressure Tester, nor do I know where the port to test is. Is there a link that describes this for the 5r55e?

It does shift smoothly in all other gears (just no reverse)

Devistated....

All new parts on,,, added ATF and it poured out the same area.

From what I can see after cleaning up oil and grease, it looks like the trans case is cracked on a manufacturing seam

(about 2 inches from the tail shaft and about an inch above were the trans pan mounts to the case).

I guess the next step is finding a TIG welder who can lay a bead over the crack.

On a positive note the owner of the Shell station it is stranded at is only going to charge me $150 to flat bed it to WI (about a 75 mile trip one way) which is waaaaaay cheaper than all the other quotes of $350-$400. :roll:

Sign up for a AAA membership. Towing should be much cheaper. Could you take a picture of this crack?

with the exhaust on the cat is in the way of being able to get a camera up there. I had to smash my head against the frame rail to be able to see (just barely) where the leak is happening.

When I get it home I'll drop the cat and y-pipe. this is a pic I found that will better describe where the leak is.

Borrowed from TRS


This would make sense of why it leaks so bad in REV. It is losing all it's line pressure through the crack and the servo never actuated causing...well no reverse I suspect.

I have read that people have been able to seal up minor cracks with JB Weld and thoroughly cleaning oil up. I think I will try it this friday after work.

FYI I am ALL OVER AAA

Or it could be that the REV Clutch Pack or Drum "let go" and caused the crack. I would think that there would be junk in the bottom of the pan though - mine was clean accept fine powder on the pan magnet

(I also added some 3.5 HDD magnets to the pan when I put the new pan on)

ragajungle said:

I have read that people have been able to seal up minor cracks with JB Weld and thoroughly cleaning oil up. I think I will try it this friday after work.

Click to expand...

Gotta love that JB weld, I used some in my pan when i put a drain plug in. Be sure to let it cure for a long time. Hope it works for you.

Michael

Man me too!

it honestly sounded like the case was cracked good luck welding does the crack extend into any other port that would normally be separated? Welding on the surface may still allow a channel for fluid to travel underneath Good luck!

Don't doubt the JB Weld

I used JB weld to fix a corrosion hole in one of the heads on my explore. It worked a treat and still holding 3 months so far



Just remember to clean thoroughly and rough up the surface a bit. I'm very confident that not only will it work but that it will work well.

well when I went to "braze" the hole shut, prepped the surface and started preheating I decided to stop because it was smoking a bit too much for my comfort...I didnt want to blaze the whole truck.. I did use the JB weld instead and it worked great! Unfortunately I still have no REV... I am planning to get a pressure gauge on it next - jus haven't had the time, but I suspect that the tranny is trashed. So I am saving as of now.

Thanks for the input though. The JB weld is amazing stuff!
Mike

Some more to think about...

As I am reading some of the older posts I found this [see post 14-ish look for the omega link]:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=232465&highlight=REVERSE

As I was sitting in my truck and contemplating I decided to try the 4x4 for ***** and giggles. 4HI went in no problem, still no REV, 4LO went in with a ZIP and a clunk. Cold this be a shift Fork issue talked about in the thread I pasted that causes lack of REV?

This thread was renamed as per your request. Does the transfer case make any strange noises as described in that link? You could remove the transfer case, and monitor the direction of the driveshaft while having an assistant change the gear from reverse to drive.

>a delay when I initially shift from PARK to DRIVE
>driving in forward gears there is no noise at all and shifting is smooth
>O/D works
>shifting from P to Manual 1 & 2 are instantaneous and firm (RPMs normal)
>engaging 4HI is quiet
>engaging 4LOW is quiet
>disengaging from 4LOW creates loud noises

Once selecting "AUTO" from 4LOW on the T-case selector knob it sounds like a fine gear is not syncing with another (ZIIIIIIIIIIP) and followed by an immediate CLUNK

I will have a helper shift through the gears and I will also take a pressure test this weekend - can't now, out of town on training for work.

Thanks again,
Mike

Update! Good Pressure = Cooked hard parts

Okay so here is an update. I got the transmission pressure tester out and on the line pressure port.

~The port is on the Driver Side of the tranny just behind the shift linkage. It is a 7/16 and a ***** to get off - so had to use a buncha PB Blaster.

The pressure's where all within ballpark of spec so I am assuming that hard REVERSE internals are cooked. I did find on another forum after hours of researching the "NO REVERSE" curse, where a guy had his main support crack (The main support that holds the internal speed sensor). It is replaceable, It is available on Ebay and at Fordparts.com for roughly $150., It is an internal and a full teardown is still required.

I did FINALLY find a replacement 5r55e but it is 253 miles away. I am waiting to hear back from the recycler. I am hoping to go pick it up in a week.

Will keep you all posted!

How much does a used tranny cost. Prob best to replace the whole thing. Here they are 125 at the junkjard if you take it out yourself.