96 V8 Explorer, broken spark plug *pics inside of what I used*

**Update**
Went back to the store and got the next size down. X5 I believe it was. Pulled the threads out no problem, and I got all new plugs wires and coils in it and man is it running nice now. Thanks to the people that posted in this thread that got me through this. I was stressin!

Another happy dude here after reading this thread, I was able to heat, spray, heat and spray and used an impact (low torque) gun with my compressor set at 100psi and was able to back it out.

I don't usually bump old threads, but seeing as spark plugs are one of those things that keep on coming back for more I figured it was worth the props and the bump

Thanks to everyone for this forum and it's members

yet another victim

Funny, I started my plug replacements on the "hard side" first to get it out of the way. All of those plugs were just slightly tightened against the seal and I had no problems at all. ( drivers side )

Passenger side, every single plug was in tight enough that it required "force" to loosen them. As it was, the 2nd and 4th plug were the most stubborn. I got the 4th plug ( closest to the firewall) out, but it required close to maximum effort with a 3/8ths ratchet on 3 extensions and a swivel and it came loose. So, I went back to that 2nd plug. Figured it would take the same force to get it to break free. Well, it snapped free

So, now I have a pretty built in whistle. I heated it up with my propane torch and threw some PB blaster at it, let it sit a few minutes, then hit it with the torch. Shortly after starting I had a "WHOOSH!" and it blew out the flame. Apparently I found the ignition point for the PB blaster that had gotten into the cylinder

Still working on getting it out. I picked up an easy out set and gave it a shot with a 7/16 wrench figuring I didn't want to over torque and break it. I don't have a good socket to fit it either ( have a set of square drives but they are too big or too small..grrrr ). So, it sits overnight and I'll take a crack at it in the morning.

Wish me luck!

thanks guys just what i needed, by the way i've got a 93 explorer xlt and have'nt drove it yet, hope to get it ready for july.

Didn't want to risk breaking the easy out in the head, so I drove it up to the local mechanic. $100 later I'm good to go. Took them an hour and a half to get it out. Honestly, I'm not complaining.

I broke a spark plug in front of my girlfriend's house.. My plugs had 150k miles on them and all came except one which broke in the head..The spark plug broke right after the nut ,so I had the rest of the plug stuck in there and half of the insulator ..I just told my girl friend to keep bumping the engine till it shoots the insulator out which it did and then I rode my bike down to napa and pick up a spiral fluted extraction set for $13 .. It took it right out with the help of a big breaker bar...

Is it better to try and change the plugs with the engine warm or Cold??

i think cold, that way the metal's contrated (and you don't burn your fingers)

Definitely cold, especially with aluminum heads. Don't forget anti seize.

Here are my pictures. Almost a copy of what happend above. Three plugs broke, managed to extract two, at the third, the first extractor wasn't 'gripping' anymore, bought another one from AZ, extractor broke. Drove it with extractor in place to the shop, head removed to pull the extractor. I blame the piss-poor design of OE plugs - half threaded (for automatic machine insertion) and not-plated with corrosion-proof alloy. Now I use only Autolite Iridium (XP) or, even better, NGK Laser Iridium plugs.

My mechanic told me that the extractors like that ones that I use are bad for thin-walled left-overs, they tend to swell the metal in hole, he had a different type of extractor. Because he knew that, now he gets all the work that I can't do (like replacing oil pump, exhaust gaskets replacement)...
See below.






http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/straight-flute-screw-extractors-536526-series

Guys...over the years, as engines heat and cool, moisture, etc can be drawn in and around the threads of spark plugs. Where you live, humidity, etc can be a factor. Here in AZ, we don't see much of this...but I've worked on cars out of Wisconsin that should have been thrown away rather than repaired. So regardless of where you live, use anti-seize on your plugs. You will thank yourself later.

Factory plugs don't have antiseize or plating. Plus they have a gap, associated with threadless part, that favorize water accumulation.

Factory doesn't have a lot of things we use as commonplace.

But hey...if you would rather pull heads instead of plugs...by all means...skip the antiseize.

I wasn't advocating that. Just sharing some info about 'beloved' Motorcraft plugs and Ford practice.
BTW, some plugs manufacturers say that shell plated plugs don't need antiseize:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
Others don't require either any antiseize in their instructions:
http://www.autolite.com/enmx/learn_more/spark_plugs
http://www.densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

Broken spark plug in 1996 302 F150

Hey you guys! I realize this subject is very old but I must tell you ... your posts on removing a broken plug from the block was AMAZING! You gave me a lot of ideas and helped me make this happen!

Most thread extractors come with a small "T" handle to turn the square end (approx. 3/8" in size). Since that didn't work for me, I tried to find a way to end up with an extension with two (2) 3/8" female ends. Browsing through Princess Auto (in Canada only I think) I found an adapter that is made to connect both female 1/2" drive to 3/8". All I did was put my own reduction fitting in the 1/2" end which made a double-ended 3/8" female adapter. This gave me a tremendous amount of leverage.

Photo shows what I bought, used and the successful extracted plug that is attached my husky CB54 ratchet.


Thanks a lot guys!

NOTE: I'm not sure if Ford farmed out these Motorcraft plugs but I've never seen a plug come apart at the metal base like that in my entire life. Hope they've upgraded i.e. MGK ! I'm dreading the day I have to replace plugs in my 2010 Mustang.

Thanks Jman for digging this up! I need to change mine and now I know it could be a little more involved, so I will wait until the summer heat breaks. This is a great thread though.

jman-R said:

I'm dreading the day I have to replace plugs in my 2010 Mustang.

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If you're talking about the 3V GT you'll be in for some fun. Do it sooner rather than later.

Cobraguy said:

another trick that works well is to heat it up, then hit it with candle wax as it cools. It will suck the wax into the threads. Try it sometime.

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true story i havent tried on sparkum plugs but has worked many times on carb float bowls on bikes...

marragtop said:

I don't have any advice for getting it out, but needless to say, when you put the new ones in, make sure you use anti-seize.

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I just finally installed new plugs ,, but on package of the new plugs , it says "" do not use anti - seize "" I read the package after the new plugs were already in , and after i sprayed a little WD 40 on the threads .
Anyway , i don,t ever want to have to do that again !! Going through the wheel well on the passenger side , makes the job possible ,, but still not very easy . passenger side took me a long time and blood sweat and tears !!
I installed the Bosch double iridium , ....also do not gap . The gap on the old plugs , 20 years old , original Motor Craft platinum , was 3 times bigger than the gap on my new plugs .