Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 48 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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Ahh that sucks... Well actually it spews:(
 



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The worst part of all this is there is Mobile 1 ATF on everything under the Explorer. Its all the way to the inside of the rear bumper. Its dripping off the left side coil over, and the main path the stream took is right over / through the panhard frame mount and heim joint. That stuff can't be good for rod end bushings. I have to pull my skid plates (14 bolts) and power wash everything with full strength Simple Green after I get it back together.
 






I guess I just got lucky with the first replacement box, it lasted about ten years.

Anybody know how to reset the instant email notification for the site? I am no longer getting notified when someone posts on a subscribed thread.

Time Warner/RoadRunner appears to be suffering email inbound issues; it's not us.

Once they fix the problems, you will be getting a whole slew of mail..
 






Time Warner/RoadRunner appears to be suffering email inbound issues; it's not us.

Once they fix the problems, you will be getting a whole slew of mail..

Joy...:(
 






Got the Explorer back together. I had A-Zone pull all of their power steering pumps and gear boxes so I could take my pick. Three pumps; Got a pump that looks brand new (nice threads, new reservoir, etc), with very little play in the shaft. Four boxes; Gear box has virtually no play. All new hoses as well. No leaks so far, but all I did was back it out of the garage, wash the ATF off the underside. and engine compartment, and drive around the block.

I did notice while installing the box that I had my steering stops turned out way too far. I adjusted them in quite a bit (about half of the length I started with) and made sure everything still clears. Now, the stops hit just before the box limits. I can't run them in any farther without the tie rod contacting the diff cover at full lock and maybe the drag link rubbing on the panhard bolt. It turns much tighter now. Maybe that had something to do with the original box pulling the bolt out of the rear mount? It is hard to tell by feel through the steering wheel when the stops hit when not on flat ground. Hitting the stops and still turning the wheel would put much more than normal load on the box / mounts. Would explain why the last box blew if my thinking is correct; turned left to full lock, then backed up while turning to the right is when I felt it go.
 












Drove the Explorer around town the past few days as the wife's car is in the shop so she is driving my Silverado. Today, I noticed what seems to be binding when leaving a stop. I think its in the front axle. Makes a click as it unbinds. It can only be from the spindles out since nothing else is supposed to be moving in 2wd. I checked both hubs and they are not locked. Need to get the front wheels off the ground and see what's what. Only did it twice out of about 25 stops. Feels a little like the old No-Slip locker I used to have but not as severe.
 






Drove the Explorer around town the past few days as the wife's car is in the shop so she is driving my Silverado. Today, I noticed what seems to be binding when leaving a stop. I think its in the front axle. Makes a click as it unbinds. It can only be from the spindles out since nothing else is supposed to be moving in 2wd. I checked both hubs and they are not locked. Need to get the front wheels off the ground and see what's what. Only did it twice out of about 25 stops. Feels a little like the old No-Slip locker I used to have but not as severe.

Could be the coils unloading when you take off?

My buddy Tim and I are planning a day trip to Corral Canyon either the 14th or 15th of Feb. if you are interested. I believe you met him way back when in Big Bear, he had a jeep tj but now has a JK.
 






Could be the coils unloading when you take off?

My buddy Tim and I are planning a day trip to Corral Canyon either the 14th or 15th of Feb. if you are interested. I believe you met him way back when in Big Bear, he had a jeep tj but now has a JK.

Could be, but the first time I noticed was just rolling forward in traffic. I have noticed that coil overs tend to compress when braking and don't come all the way back up until you drive off. Think its due to the 30" of spring.

I am definitely interested in CC run. Let me know.
 






I have been looking at LED lights for a while. I know I want a spot for when I am out front in the night runs, but can't decide in floods. I am looking at either:
Two CREE 7" 36 watt floods for a total of 72 watts.
Or one CREE 20" 126 watt flood.
I currently have two 75 watt KC fog lights that don't seem to bother anyone.
I am leaning towards the 20" bar because I have decided on a 23" 240 watt OSRAM LED combo that is mostly spots to go directly above it on the bumper bar. I don't want too much light while following others but also don't want not enough light.
Opinions??
 












So, Thursday night, my expo is just sitting in the driveway idling. I'd just had the whole intake off it replacing injector o-rings. It's running for 10-15 minutes and we turn around to a puddle under it all of a sudden. I jump under it, it's oil. WTF... Where's this coming from all of a sudden? Everything I messed with was fuel line related. Start looking and well guess what. High pressure line for the power steering was leaking where it threads into the pump. Guess who instantly popped in my mind? LOL
 






So, Thursday night, my expo is just sitting in the driveway idling. I'd just had the whole intake off it replacing injector o-rings. It's running for 10-15 minutes and we turn around to a puddle under it all of a sudden. I jump under it, it's oil. WTF... Where's this coming from all of a sudden? Everything I messed with was fuel line related. Start looking and well guess what. High pressure line for the power steering was leaking where it threads into the pump. Guess who instantly popped in my mind? LOL

Sucks, but at least it did not blow fluid all over the engine and the underside to the inside of the rear bumper.
Hopefully its just the line, but its probably the O ring for the pressure regulator, but I recommend replacing the entire pump. In my recent experience, the pump usually is on its way out when the seals start failing.
 






This must be the month for power steering.. Rick's TC pump was leaking at the -AN fitting on the pressure side which ended his Truckhaven wheeling..

Sounds like it's time for people to upgrade to the saginaw pump.

~Mark
 






I cracked it loose and retightened it and the leak seems to have stopped but I priced pumps and hoses on rockauto and I think here in the next couple weeks I'm going to at the very least buy them both and have both on hand to replace if forced and if not forced, I'll replace when I get around to it for piece of mind.

Last sunday, very first time out with the new truck I'm running along at like 60+ with no front clip or windshield and start getting tiny drops of fluid on my helmet lense. I then see a small puff of smoke directly in front of me. Come to a stop, smoke gets worse... Overfilled the power steering on that truck and it was dumping out onto the headers! LOL, YIKES!!!
 






Dave, you were right. It was the coils clicking when I took off on a turn. The driver side shock still has some Mobile 1 ATF from the power steering pump explosion and I think its allowing the coils to slide/shift on the guides. It only did it once today, and that was on a tight turn slight acceleration parking lot exit type of deal. I went through the entire front suspension; every nut, bolt, rod end, jam nut, etc. Everything was tight except the jam nut for the right side radius arm mount, and that was not loose, just not tight.

Chris, its good piece of mind to replace all that stuff. The only problem with Rock Auto is the core charges; its not worth sending them back because of the shipping. I get stuff with core charges locally.
 






Now i'm gonna be worried about my power steering:p:

Glad that's all it was Brian...my c/o's make all kinds of noise so it's the first place I look.

I've got locking jam nuts on my rod ends from Off Road Evolution in Fullerton. There is an allen screw that pinches the nut tight and also a series of smaller set screws on the face. They weren't cheap at $50 a pair but they have never loosened up since I installed them
 






My c/o's make some noise as well. Not crazy bad but you can hear the slider moving up and down in a parking lot or pulling in a driveway. Can't hear anything while driving though.
 






They have always made a rubbing sound, but this was different as I could feel it unbind. I spray the shock bodies with silicone spray from time to time. It lessons the rubbing noise.

If I start having issues with the jam nuts loosening I might go with those, thanks Dave.

I was wondering if my lack of brake performance is due to the cheap rotors I installed. I basically got the cheapest I could find. My front brakes should work much better than they do, since they are the T-Bird calipers and made for a much larger vehicle. I was thinking of some slotted rotors and some ceramic pads. Input??

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-rotors/brake-rotors.php
 



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Are the flat spots of the upper and lower coils aligned?
 






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