2003 Explorer. Power window master switch and mirror switch are inoperative.

I am considering purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer from a private party. The drivers master switch and the mirror switch are both inop but the locks work. The owner was told it needed a new switch. He thinks the power mirror switch is related. I have repaired broken door wiring on my 98 Explorer for an inop lock switch. When I was a Dodge/Chrysler electrical tech I repaired enumerable door wiring harness for similar problems. If I get this vehicle I was going to start by testing the switches and wiring. Then start looking for loose or broken connectors and wiring breaks. Any other ideas?

Also the center seat lach handle is pulled loose and broken. Totally inop. The owner thinks replacing the seat is the answer but I see that replacing the handle, bezel, and cable (assembly?) is more cost effective. Any body got one?

I may have to cruise the wrecking yards in Spokane to locate parts.

Also, one last thing, this vehicle has 17" wheels. No sure if they are aftermarket or OEM. I see that the Limited AWD had that option? This is an XLT. All I have researched so far is 16" wheels. Need advice on the wheels.

Thanks, Gerry A.

Welcome to this forum! I've moved your thread into the stock 2002-2005 section. Check the wiring between the door, and the frame.

Thanks, I am experiencing some difficulty in navigating the myriad of forums available. Didn't realize I was in the Aerostar forum.

You are in the stock 2002-2005 section.

Welcome to the forum!!

I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, etc. Most recently all 4 windows stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 2 broken wires and repaired them and all is back to normal!

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=303524

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wire(s), thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=270081. Be patient when looking for broken/damaged wires. Sometimes they can be hard to find.

If you don't find any broken/damaged wire(s), here is a great link for troubleshooting the power windows, thanks to theofam for this great link Dead Link Removed

Hope this helps out! :biggthump

Welcome to the forum.

Power mirrors and windows inop

garmstrong2007 said:

I am considering purchasing a 2003 Ford Explorer from a private party. The drivers master switch and the mirror switch are both inop but the locks work. The owner was told it needed a new switch. He thinks the power mirror switch is related. I have repaired broken door wiring on my 98 Explorer for an inop lock switch. When I was a Dodge/Chrysler electrical tech I repaired enumerable door wiring harness for similar problems. If I get this vehicle I was going to start by testing the switches and wiring. Then start looking for loose or broken connectors and wiring breaks. Any other ideas?

Also the center seat lach handle is pulled loose and broken. Totally inop. The owner thinks replacing the seat is the answer but I see that replacing the handle, bezel, and cable (assembly?) is more cost effective. Any body got one?

I may have to cruise the wrecking yards in Spokane to locate parts.

Also, one last thing, this vehicle has 17" wheels. No sure if they are aftermarket or OEM. I see that the Limited AWD had that option? This is an XLT. All I have researched so far is 16" wheels. Need advice on the wheels.

Thanks, Gerry A.

Click to expand...

OK, I bought this vehicle. First I replaced the 2nd row center seat with a good used one from a wrecking yard. It had some side plastic and a seat belt receptacle that was missing. Got it for $20. What a deal. Cleaned it up and swapped out the plastics from the one in the car. WAH-LAH, like new again.

Today the weather was nice enough to "tear into" the drivers door wiring. I followed the post on removing the door panel. Then disconnected the wiring harness from all the connections in the door. Pulled the harness out through the hole where the boot sits. Unwrapped the tape, slid the boot down, and located a broken heavy black ground wire. Cut the wire back a ways and soldered in a new piece. The windows all work like they should.

Found the power mirrors inop was just the #16 5 amp fuse. Replaced the fuse and they work. While I was under the dash, I found an auxillary power receptacle wire in behind the trim panel (below the steering wheel). It was installed with a "quicky wire tap". I suspect this may have been the culprit that blew the fuse. I worked both mirrors to the limit. The fuse held.

Checked the sticker in the drivers door. This vehicle came equipped with P245/65/R17 wheels and tires. Even though the internet research says an XLT was 16" rims.

Good deal. Sounds like you're well on the way to making her right.

Now we just need some pics..............
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