Pugly

Midas recharged our Aerostar 2 yrs ago for just over $100, no other repairs done.

429CJ-3X2 said:

Midas recharged our Aerostar 2 yrs ago for just over $100, no other repairs done.

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Did that include a slow 3-4 hour vacuum service & a flush?

If this shop finds any leaks, they will replace O-rings, and what not, as part of the $200 service charge.

I honestly don't know what they did, but legally they have to check for leaks and can't recharge it if there are any. Wife dropped it off and I took her to get it when they called to say it was ready. I don't know/remember how long they had it.

$200 doesn't sound bad if they'll replace any o rings that need it. They could have some time wrapped up in it if they check for leaks, have to evacuate it, change o rings and recharge the system.

Stardate: 3.30.20.15.5.07

Interior crystalline viewers went through complete deep cycle decontamination, and barnacle removal. Ocular polarity is running at full power.

That is all.

Rig started to wander in it's lane again, so it was time to check the spindle nuts. Yup... Found the drivers side nuts finger loose again.

The little nipple is ground clean off on both sides, and 175 lbs don't hold em for long. I'm afraid to go any tighter then that. I really need to buy a new nut set someday, torquing them down every other month is getting old.

Also... I Finally found the Anti-Rattle clips for the front pads I forgot to install when I did the breaks last fall. No more rattle to drive me crazy.

So....

I have decided to throw in the front Aussie locker. While removing everything to get the Diff out, I have decided to take care of other things at the same time. I mean, why not, right?

(I also acquired a rear open carrier, so one day when I find a used Lunchbox locker on the cheap, I can install that too!)

Things I want to do:
Swap the 297 U-joints for the 5-760X & do the full clip mod.
Grind the yolks for increased range of motion.
Swap the C-clip eliminator spring as there is about 1/2" play in the shaft in/out of the pumpkin. Replace the Speedi-boot with a new one.

Anything else I should do related to this work? I'm not taking the beams apart, as the bushing still seems fine.

I bought 3 sets of Spicer 5-760-X U-joints, but can only locate 2 sets at the moment. Grr!! These ain't cheap!!

I need to locate & purchase the 1-3/16" snap rings, & speedi-boot.

Now the thing with the Echo spring... I bought a couple of the Echo springs that was recommended here on the forum, BUT... I am pretty sure that is what I already have in there. (another member here got it for me). It measures 2-1/4" long. I read on TRS forum today that was edited saying we need to use a 2.75-3" spring because of the slop the echo springs have. Now I'm severely confused on what to do about this. I do not like that slop in that shaft, not one bit. Sigh....

I still have not got all the parts for the A/C repair. So much to do, so little $$! LOL!
Still cheaper than a Monthly car payment tho!!

Forgot to add that the Dorman 38438 door hinge replacements suck. I have broken 3 sets of bushings over the years, and have just broken another. I have tried to find just the bushings alone, but with no luck. Bushing size are: .350 ID x .480 OD (pin is .340)

gmanpaint said:

I need to go on a road trip to pick up the 97 4.10 8.8. Once I have this, the axle(s) swap is on! Been sitting on the front 4.10 3rd member for 6 months now, and am dying to get them installed.

So I have to do a little reading, to figure out the conversion for the rear using the 2nd gen 8.8. I think I have to use a 95 Master cylinder, and do some plumbing in the rear, and maybe something with the E-brake set up.

Can't wait for this mod to happen!

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Putting the late model 8.8 with discs requires nothing done to the master.

Have one under mine no issues, one of the best upgrades yet. Gives that extra stop for the oversize tires.

No additional plumbing. e-brake plugs right into the forward fitting. (Need the cable assy from second gen) Even the rubber brake line is the right length. (the one from the second gen)

No ABS issues, no pedal feel issues.

I've heard stories of troubles but not in my experience. Bolt in swap.

If you don't have the cables or the hose I recommend a trip to the bone yard, it'll save ya time money and aggravation.

Thats an old post! lol

I did the swap long ago. I had no issues with keeping the stock master, and brakes work awesome.

Only thing I did extra was add a 10" brake line and made it into an "S" shape for when the axle droops when I have the the rear stabilizer removed.

DERP! I no read so good!

Welp, I made it thru the winter so I have to make time to do the lower intake gasket again before it really blows and leaves me stranded somewhere. Time to buy the Intake gasket kit and just do it to it. (ugh)

I guess I'm going to get the more expensive permadry style gaskets, as I really don't know how much better they are then normal cork style, but I do know I don't want to do it again if the cork style fails! LOL!!

Hopefully weather agrees with me and I can knock it out this weekend.

5 weekends in a row rained out. Haven't been able to get the new Intake gasket kit installed as I need 2 full days to make sure I have it running correctly for work come Monday.

So I opened the gasket kit and found it not to be what I was expecting. The last lower gasket kit I installed was a one pc (like stock), but this Fel-Pro Perma-Dry kit is a 2 pc design. There is no valley cover, just the port sides are sealed. Ok, I can work with this part easy enough.

Now the confusing part to me. This kit comes with 6 smaller individual double ring gaskets. :scratch:

I searched and asked a friend, and so far the consensus is that the Plastic plenum's use 3 of these, not 6. (why give 6?) The Aluminum Plenum doesn't use them. That makes no sense to me (yet). I have no idea where/how to install these.

This kit is what I have, you can see the six individual double ring gaskets I am talking about...

http://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS98005T-Intake-Manifold-Gasket/dp/B000HUQAHA/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Appreciate any feedback or advice here please!! Thanks!!!

You install the rubber o ring type ( top item in the amazon picture) in the trash can.

Your truck has the metal intake manifold.

Maybe this will help

LOL!! You a funny guy....

So where do they go on the plastic plenum? I have to do the 95 as well.

I can only remember using 3 of those gaskets. No idea why 6 ship.

3 rubber ones for the plastic plenum.... sorry, should have specified. Right on the bottom where the upper plastic mates the lower intake.

Dono said:

3 rubber ones for the plastic plenum.... sorry, should have specified. Right on the bottom where the upper plastic mates the lower intake.

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Thank you. I have been scratching my head wondering where these install on the the plenums.

Jon and others have said the Alum plenums don't use em, and I didn't install them the last time I did this on the alum plenum. I kept on seeing comments on using 3 of them, and it was confusing me, causing me to ask some more.

When I remove the plastic upper on the 95, I'm sure I will see these underneath, and will know how to install em. I'm guessing these are used on the plastic because of heat, and used in conjunction with the other larger gasket.

And Jon..... Sorry, I wasn't doubting you, it is just my brain being so OCD and not understanding this fully.

you will have no issue once you get the upper plenum off. You will see them right away. A small flat screwdriver, or small pick will yank them out easily. They are not glued.

That stupid egr tube can be misery though. get thru that, and your golden.

Dono said:

you will have no issue once you get the upper plenum off. You will see them right away. A small flat screwdriver, or small pick will yank them out easily. They are not glued.

That stupid egr tube can be misery though. get thru that, and your golden.

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Kinda what I was thinking. Once I see it, I will know better.

I think my saving grace with the EGR is that the lower gasket was replaced in 09 and not that many miles have been put on that rig since. Hopefully the EGR tube comes off easy enough. I'm only doing valve cover gaskets R&R on that one.

7th son of a 7th son.....

Seven weekends in a row of rains. Can't get diddly accomplished.

Speaking of rains... The roof cracked at both ladder rack mounts. Sprung a leak inside.

I used some steel epoxy putty, that lasted a week before it cracked out. So I just gobbed on about a half a tube of clear silicone to cover the cracks for now. I need to break down and buy a simple 180 wire feed welder I guess.