need help identifying wires for 2004 factory 8" sub amp

Can anyone tell me what these wires are? This is the plug going into the factory sub AMP on an 04 EXP.

It's kind of confusing. #5 is the heavier wire by itself at the other end and 1-4 are of the same. In a related thread, the OP mentioned how the head unit would not send a bass signal if the factory sub was not plugged in but does anyone know why? I would hate to have the factory amp running just to get an audio signal.

I'm in the middle of a similar project it seems and currently have me entire sub/amp open as well. Are you trying to replace the factory amp? I'm curious if it's possible to splice into the existing wires somehow for a small upgraded amp (100w or so) to power an upgraded 8" sub. Don't really want to have to run all new wiring, but I'm finding that there are very little options of subs to run on the factory amplifier (60w@1.2ohm x 2).

I"m curious to hear what you're trying to do?

I'm not sure what a 96 EX looks like but i tapped into the factory wiring. The thicker yellow is your power (5), ground (4) and 1-3 are the low level audio signal.

I played with 1-3 several ways and just went with connecting to the with #1 and #3 for my +/-. I cut up an RCA cable to connect the aftermarket amp to the harness.

I wanted to add more thump while retaining the factory head unit. I changed the speakers to 6.5's with adapter plates and baffles.

Right now i'm leaning towards doing a stealth system and leaving the factory unit in place for looks. Real simple. Just need another amp for the mid/tweets, an electronic xover/eq and another weekend.

Were you able to use the existing power/ground to run an aftermarket amp? I just want a small amp (100w x 1) but didn't want the hassle of running all new cables.

Yes I was able to. That's shown in the picture. I used those red clip things for the audio signal and I soldered into the yellow for power then wrapped with electrical tape. It's all ziptied into the other factory wiring. The ground I just used the seatbelt bolt.

This is it.

That's the finished project besides putting the panels back on and a little bit of trimming.

I actually screwed myself and forgot to run the seatbelt through one of the pillar panels so now I have to take everything and the seats apart again

jdmitrswapped said:

That's the finished project besides putting the panels back on and a little bit of trimming.

I actually screwed myself and forgot to run the seatbelt through one of the pillar panels so now I have to take everything and the seats apart again

Click to expand...

That's awesome. I'm trying to do the same for my 2004 explorer, although sticking with an 8" subwoofer. Are you going to put the new amp in the same location as the old?

Have you tested this yet? Someone on another thread mentioned that the subwoofer audio outputs don't work if the factory amp isn't connected, but I'm not sure how that would be the case. Especially if you're using the factory power cables to power the new amp (maybe it senses the draw?)

Does the power automatically turn on with the headunit then? Assuming this will work in the same fashion to turn the new amp on/off?

This is sounding very promising. I appreciate all your help.

jdmitrswapped said:

That's the finished project besides putting the panels back on and a little bit of trimming.

I actually screwed myself and forgot to run the seatbelt through one of the pillar panels so now I have to take everything and the seats apart again

Click to expand...

That's awesome. I'm trying to do the same for my 2004 explorer, although sticking with an upgraded 8" subwoofer. Are you going to put the new amp in the same location as the old?

Have you tested this yet? Someone on another thread mentioned that the subwoofer audio outputs don't work if the factory amp isn't connected, but I'm not sure how that would be the case. Especially if you're using the factory power cables to power the new amp (maybe it senses the draw?)

Does the power automatically turn on with the headunit then? Assuming this will work in the same fashion to turn the new amp on/off?

This is sounding very promising. I appreciate all your help. I'm hoping to pick out an 8" sub and amp today. I was originally planning to use the factory amp but if it's easy to upgrade, a small little amp shouldn't cost to much and will be worth the investment.

My new amp was kind of big so it's under the rear seats. The #5 power wire is a constant 12v. Those factory wires and factory amp are a bit confusing, I'm not sure how the amp switches on and off as I didn't bother testing for that. I ran a small speaker cable to use as my remote power switche for the amp. It's ghetto but for right now it works until I decide where I want to go with my system. I'm contemplating an after market head unit.

The last picture is exactly how it sits without the body panel covering it. The wire s are tapped, taped and ziptied to existing wires running along the back.

You could always just do the sub first using the stock amp. If its not enough thump then add the amp?

Hey Toddius, i see you have a single voice coil sub and the factory amp is stereo. You just have to bridge the amp. Bridging means taking a - from one channel and a + from the other channel to connect to your sub with single terminals.

I don't think you'll lose power but the question is how long can you camp handle being bridged. Don't sweat it though, you can have my oem amp if it craps on you after a while.

I had heard that the amp needs to have a bridge switch to truly be bridge-able?

I'm planning to buy a dvc 8" and try it with the factory amp first. Worst case I'll upgrade to a small 100-200w amp in factory location.

Thanks for the offer though. Unfortunately (or actually, fortunately) the sub I bought on eBay was blown- so I got a full refund and can now buy another dvc version instead.