A Whoops and a Whew! Broken clutch pushrod | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A Whoops and a Whew! Broken clutch pushrod

Yesterday, I'm pulling of a store lot into the street. When I shift into second, my clutch pedal collapses to the floor with a snap. Great, I'm in second gear and on a main road.
I look for a nice spot to pull over into, and right there is a NAPA. :D
I pull in, jump out, and find the clutch pushrod pieces on the floor.
Thinking that Napa wouldn't have one and that there's the Ford dealer on block over, I checked at Napa anyway, because I'm lazy.
Turns out they have one, but I needed to but the complete clutch master cyl, for $59.
I figured Ford would be the same, so I bought it, went out and popped it in and drove home. :)

These pushrods are made of metal on the master cyl end, but the last few inches at the pedal end are solid plastic! Anyone know of a stronger available part?
 

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Hmm, interesting! The pic doesn't look like it would work, but maybe it's just a 'stock' photo...
 






Hey RangerX just sayin your ranger is badass
 






Haha, thanks! :rangertan:
 






Wow , Well at least it was an easy to replace part and you know what can happen to someone else and help fix or buy cheap and fix haha .
 






Hmm, interesting! The pic doesn't look like it would work, but maybe it's just a 'stock' photo...

I agree. Wonder how hard it would be to fab one up using your broken part. Sleeve the end of the steel shaft with a built steel end. That's if it's not to difficult to make the end shaped out of steel like the plastic?
 






...A couple thoughts..:scratch:

...I'm not sure if you have a jy out there but I would look around as these were commonly made of steel and are a known wear item as they would oval out after time...

..I've had similar steel rods in my old F series ford pickups and IIRC my old Toyota hilux.

..A little modifying may be in order to retrofit an metal one in place..

..Just some examples..

..They sell repair kits for the F series rods..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clutch...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a81cefebe&vxp=mtr

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Rods to scavenge at jy's to modify

..This is from an old jeep..
https://www.vintagejeeps.com/p-867-master-cylinder-push-rod-eye-bolt-637599.aspx

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..Or you could buy and modify or make one up with a Heim..;)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Master-Cylinder-Pushrod-5-5-8-Sleeve-3-8-Heim,9329.html

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..I did find this drawing though..:D

2010-02-10_183130_clutch_switch.jpg


oh yea. a video..

 






I agree. Wonder how hard it would be to fab one up using your broken part. Sleeve the end of the steel shaft with a built steel end. That's if it's not to difficult to make the end shaped out of steel like the plastic?

Funny, when I saw that it was plastic, I thought someone ought to make one from steel, and YOU were the person who came to mind!
 






Ted, there are NO junkyards on this island. :(

From looking at that first pic, maybe they switched to plastic so the knob on the pedal won't get worn down like that?
 












I didn't realize the push rod was plastic! Back in February I had the plastic bushing on the end fail which let the rod come off my pedal in light traffic. I sure thought it was a metal end, I'm going to have to go back and look at it again.
 






For whatever reason (probably cost), the rods for 93-01 Explorers are plastic on the pedal side. They also have a very thin steel rod insert in the very middle, when mine broke it broke where there was a missing part of the steel rod.

It can also be a REALLY good idea to have some spare clutch pedal retainers in the vehicle, that little 4-prong clip is all that holds the rod to the clutch pedal, and when one tiny clip breaks, the rod can come off while driving. This can be catastrophic if you don't know how to shift without a clutch or at the very least, control speed to pull it out of gear. Maybe even using a zip-tie as a loose retainer would be a good idea.

Fix for the plastic pushrod is to get the rod for a 91-92, they are all metal, gold anodized. This is the case for both the OE and aftermarket parts. I have OE masters for both the 91-92 and 93-97 and the pushrods are the same size in all respects and are completely interchangeable.

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http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1119619,parttype,1996,a,Ad+Code+www.google.com+

I wouldn't suggest using the rest of the master cylinder though, I've used the 91-92 master for a few years and it gave an incredibly hard to push pedal. On the plus side, the engagement was solid and the clutch has never slipped, and my left leg muscles are now incredibly strong.

Best to stick to using all 93-97 or 98-01 parts when it comes to the master, slave, and clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, other than the pushrod.
 






..:scratch:..What kind of a Paradise doesn't have a junk yard?..:D
 






It can also be a REALLY good idea to have some spare clutch pedal retainers in the vehicle, that little 4-prong clip is all that holds the rod to the clutch pedal, and when one tiny clip breaks, the rod can come off while driving. This can be catastrophic if you don't know how to shift without a clutch or at the very least, control speed to pull it out of gear. Maybe even using a zip-tie as a loose retainer would be a good idea.

Yeah, it happened to me on the Top of the World trail in Moab! A ziptie did the quick fix and got me home.

Real good info on the early year part being all metal! If only you could buy the rod separate...
 






Ted, there are NO junkyards on this island. :(

From looking at that first pic, maybe they switched to plastic so the knob on the pedal won't get worn down like that?

^This combined with the fact its cheaper to produce the half plastic one is why they switched. They did the same thing in the f-series pickups in the early '90's and they now have the same issue you had with the plastic end breaking.
 






Damn, it happened again! Lasted not quite two years.
I'm waiting for a ride to the parts store where I'll try to get the all metal version Brian mentioned.
 

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So I eneded up buying the exact same part, for a 93 Ranger. The last one I got at Napa, this one at Oreillys. The difference is, the Oreillys part has a lifetime warranty! So I'm saving the box and receipt, I'll need it in about two years. :rolleyes:

But before I bought the Ranger part, I first looked at a 91 Ranger part. As Anime posted above, they are made of all metal, and the parts computer showed an all metal piece in the photo. But when they brought the box, it was half plastic! It was beefed up at the break spot compared to mine, but it also was about 1.5" shorter, so I couldn't use it.
Then I looked at a 91 F150 part, it was all metal, but also 1.5" too short.
Something is obviously different on a 93 Ranger! I did not think to check a similar year Old explorer part as I was pressed for time.

I'd really like to find a solid metal piece. It needs to be 9.25" overall length. if anyone knows of one...
 

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Going by Rockauto's online catalog, it shows the same part numbers for the clutch master cylinder between a 1993 Explorer and 1993 V6 Ranger (both the 3.0L and 4.0L), and the same part numbers for a 1991 Explorer and 1991 V6 Ranger clutch master cylinder.

The 2.3L 4 cylinder Ranger has a different master cylinder.

I'd suspect that's what you saw at O'Reilly's since you didn't look at any Explorer master cyls. The counter person probably just picked the part for the 4 cyl Ranger, not thinking that the V6 engines had a different transmission behind them. It makes a big difference what engine/tranmisson the vehicle has. If it's not one with an M5OD, it's probably not going to be the right part.

The part number for a V6 Ranger should be the same as for an Explorer of the same model year.

Any clutch master cylinder pushrod for a 91-92 Explorer or V6 Ranger should be all metal and fit perfect.

You could get 'em for basically free at any salvage yard, too...
 



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Possibly they entered a four cyl as the engine size, but I did tell then 4.0.
But what's really odd is the f150 rod being shorter also. I would expect it to be bigger, if anything.
I'll go back when I have time and when it's slow in there and recheck all this and take photos of the differences.
 






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