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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Turbo compressor map.gif
Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.
 



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The housing made my eyes water, but I'm too far in to this to stop now.
The housing was $350.00 after the smoke cleared.
I'm not sure when it will be in. If it has to come right from Turbonetics in California it will be a few more weeks.
Tim, I'll see you next week sometime for sure. Pm me how much, and I'll make sure I have the cash.

Yes, I know what you mean about our trucks being a bit of a soap opera. We keep trying different things, and keep learning.....I mostly learn from my mistakes. I do like to share those also so that hopefully I can save someone some pain down the road.

Speaking about soap opera, we all can hardly wait for you to get to the track 4pointslow. We really need to see some numbers since your 'little' modifications out of the way that require tuning so I don't drive James crazy.

oh, and I ebayed a manual boost controller. Im thinking I'd like to get my modification
 



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Thanks for the Update, All these cool things being done to explorers is like a mini series on TV to me. I find myself checking my email for the next episode. If there is no new posts I feel like something is missing.

Same feeling!
 






turbo

Yea, I know what you mean about too far to stop now. I was like oh no! when I realized I would have to relocate my battery, just added more work and one of my other trucks had just broke down. lol.
Manual boost controller, new turbine housing
To be continued......
 






yup, my missfire cylinder 1 code came back this morning. I'll pick up a couple of new plugs today.
Thats the thing with tuning.....sometimes you uncover other weaknesses in your motor that worked ok with the stock tune.

I do have some rebuilt and ported 'P' heads squirrel'd away in the garage if required. But then....rear main is leaking, etc. This would mean to do it properly the motor has to come out. Lets just hope its not a low compression issue. Back to starting with the plug, then I'll try a new wire if it comes back.
 






It's not the plug, or wire. :(
Tim suggests swapping coil packs end for end. I'll do that tomorrow.

My o2 sensors came in, so I changed them tonight also. And....even though rock auto lists the motorcraft as the same part number on both sides. Well the connector wire is too short on the passenger side. So, a bit of cutting and splicing and I lengthened the wire. Not a huge deal, but a bit more aggravating.

What I don't get about this 0301 missfire cylinder 1 is that the truck was running fantastic yesterday. I park it for the night, and instant missfire code on the way to work today.

I sure hope it's the coil pack causing the issue. Injectors were tested, so I can't see that being it.
 






misfire

That misfire just wont leave you alone. lol.
Keep us posted about the coil packs.
Did you install a new plug and wire on Number1?
Clear codes and then retest?
Can you feel it running rough?
Note:
For the misfire monitor to run it has to go through "misfire profile correction" after having the battery disconnected or KAM reset. Vehicle has to be driven to 60 mph and decel to 40 mph without stepping on the brakes. Has to happen 3-4 times too. Then it should be able to detect misfires again.
 






All kinds of good info.

When I had a misfire that wouldn't quit it was the wires first, then 2 different coil packs. One was a new MSD that failed. The other was the original Motorcraft that came with the engine. Finally I said screw this and got 2 new Motorcraft coil packs.
 






Thanks guys.
Tim said he has another coil pack if needed.
I'll swap the packs end for end (Since there are two that are the same) and see if the code changes.
There is no question that this is a dead miss happening, there's nothing intermittent about it. The truck shakes really good, and does not exactly sound smooth.

I don't think I have been going up to 60, then down to 40 a few times for the code to come up. It returns really quickly after clearing the code with my SCT unit.

At least whatever has been happening is not intermittent anymore.
 






All kinds of good info.

When I had a misfire that wouldn't quit it was the wires first, then 2 different coil packs. One was a new MSD that failed. The other was the original Motorcraft that came with the engine. Finally I said screw this and got 2 new Motorcraft coil packs.

I also had a misfire, which began one day about three years ago. I changed everything but the coil packs, which were only about 3000 miles old, Accel. It ended up being the Accel part, and the old Ford parts worked fine.

I've since then developed a new miss, and it comes and goes(mostly in hot weather). This one I think is the fuel pressure/pump, I finally got a test reading of just 30psi one day this Spring.

Check your fuel pressure occasionally during the times you have a miss.
 






I became aggravated enough over this I took it to a shop that I have had good success with in the past as they have been very honest.

End result? Bank 1 is pulling air from somewhere.
The fuel trims are up close to 10% at idle on bank 1. He said the interesting thing is that when accelerating, more air keeps entering and fuel trims keep adding more fuel on that bank.

If it was upper intake and the throttle body was open we would have expected the vacuum leak to decrease as vacuum decreased. So, what is it?
He did the ether test all over the motor and couldn't get the idle to change. His diagnosis is that there is air being pulled from somewhere, but cylinder 1 had great compression and the ignition system is working perfectly. Where is the air being sucked in from?

So I have been thinking.....the truck ran great with the catch can full of oil and not exactly passing air in to the motor. hmmm.......

Next step......I'll plug my catch can vent and see if the vacuum leak goes away.
If it does, wouldn't that point to lower intake gasket? If air is being pulled in to bank 1 from the inside of the motor, my catch can system would definitely provide the free flow of air to the inside of the motor, then straight in to bank 1 cylinders.

Logical? I'll go try plugging the catch can right away.

edit.....Nope. I pull the hose to the catch can, and air is clearly exiting the tube. Rules out air being pulled in to the motor.
 






1) lower intake gasket
2) fuel injector o rings (fuel injectors not fully seated bank 1)
3) crack in lower intake manifold


If it is only on bank one, everything above the lower intake to upper intake junction is eliminated.
 






I can rule out injector O rings. They are new, and I know they seated really well (With a bit of engine assembly lube on the outside.

Im really thinking lower intake issue also.
So, I happen to have a ported lower intake in the garage. Its starting to look like I'll be pulling the top off my motor. Nothing else really makes any sense.

I'll maybe do a datalog of how it runs now and see if I can confirm what I'm being told about the computer adding fuel to bank 1.
 






don, didnt you reuse the upper intake gasket? i wounder if it might be that. and if it is, once again, i have spares lol
 






Tim, you have everything. Lol.
Do you have that part number for Lowe to upper?
I have a set of lower gaskets, but will need a new upper.

I really think that the lower on one side always had an issue. I guess I've had some plans made for me this weekend.
 






i have 3 lower to upper gaskets if you want one

oh, another thing. be warned. look at johns thread about the intake bolts. just say'n
 






Which thread?
 






Make sure its not the big vacuum line that goes from the upper intake to the valve under the battery tray
 












Ah, yes. I did read that. Please let that not be me.

If your going to be in the city, I'll take you up on that gasket. I'll replace it next rock auto order. If you aren't going to be in the city, I'll get one from Canadian tire. They are probably next cheapest.
 



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i can drop it off if you want. no need to spend 30 on one. i just got a few when i did a rock auto order. that and if you need a hand......and arent still sick.
 






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