My A4LD rebuild (no Forward only Reverse)

How much did all of the parts cost you to do it yourself?

I just finished mine. I found a pretty good deal on a master kit for $180, it included servos, clutch plates and bands plus every seal you need. Pretty much everything but thrust washers. I spent another $90 on the Superior and Trans go JR. kit. Plus another $30 or so on Sonnax flexplate spacer and Manual sleeve index. Roughly a little over $300 in total but still a hell of a lot better than $2000 to have someone else do it. Fairly easy to do with all this info on this forum.

My finished A4LD sat on my workbench for so long!
I finally got it bolted in a few weekends ago, Im getting putting the exhaust back together now. Then Im going to replace the radial arm bushing and get this thing running!

I've gotten a replacement aux trans cooler and I've flushed out the in rad cooler. I've still got to figuire out what tee Im going to put into the line for the trans temp gauge. I'd like to tee into the steel line as it comes out of the trans with a flare tee, but I may just put it in flex line with some barb fittings...

cklinejr said:

My finished A4LD sat on my workbench for so long!
I finally got it bolted in a few weekends ago, Im getting putting the exhaust back together now. Then Im going to replace the radial arm bushing and get this thing running!

I've gotten a replacement aux trans cooler and I've flushed out the in rad cooler. I've still got to figuire out what tee Im going to put into the line for the trans temp gauge. I'd like to tee into the steel line as it comes out of the trans with a flare tee, but I may just put it in flex line with some barb fittings...

Click to expand...

Haha, this is too funny. I rebuilt mine months ago and is still sitting. I'm actually still running on the salvage tyranny I put in. I have to put it in 1 and rev it up about 3 times to get it in gear and once I'm rolling manually shift it into D. Runs perfect then, really strange, but it seems to keep running, over 220k and going strong.

cklinejr said:

My finished A4LD sat on my workbench for so long!
I finally got it bolted in a few weekends ago, Im getting putting the exhaust back together now. Then Im going to replace the radial arm bushing and get this thing running!

I've gotten a replacement aux trans cooler and I've flushed out the in rad cooler. I've still got to figuire out what tee Im going to put into the line for the trans temp gauge. I'd like to tee into the steel line as it comes out of the trans with a flare tee, but I may just put it in flex line with some barb fittings...

Click to expand...

The cooler line is not a good place for a temp sensor, the reading will be lower than actual because the line will cool the fluid. The best place is in one of the pressure port fittings on the case of the tranny.

I was going to put the sender in the pressure port, but it seems like the path to that port is a dead end, I don't think the sender would get a continuous flow of fluid over it.
I've got 2 gauges to put one on each side of the cooler, I want to see the hot temp coming out of the trans and how much the cooler is working.

Getting the exhaust buttoned up, Something HAS to be done with this pitiful stock cat heat shield!

Does anyone have any examples of what they replaced it with? I'm thinking I'll add another sheet of aluminum with some ~1/2"\ standoffs to give it a air gap.

I remembered why I stopped using KRYLON spray paint!



That is supposed to be Gloss Black, not splotchy grey!

After picking up a can of Rustoleum it turned out much better.




I put some super strong magnets in the bottom of the pan. I don't think the bottom near the pickup is is a good place, if it builds up enough that's going to get sucked right up into the filter. I went for 2 in the location of the original lame magnet and put 2 in the other flat corners of the pan.



Those magnets are out of some old hard drives if anyone is curious.

I also picked up some Tee fittings to tie the trans temp sensors into the cooler lines so I'll show that after I get them installed.

More to come.

-Charles

Heat Shield Modifaction

Here's what I did with my heat shield.

I picked up some 1/2" aluminum standoffs and cut some flat aluminum to run from the cat flange to the back of the oil pan (much longer then the original shield.

Drilled out the rivets and replaced with long bolts and the spacers.



I added two sections, one on the angle to directly face the cat and another on the vertical for heat that radiates up. (that notch is to clear the flange of the cat)








It was tricky getting the cats back in, I had to leave the shield loos and slide the cat by it, but after some futzing I got it.

Looking good, almost there!

Here's what I did for the tans temp gauge.
I wanted to see the temp at its hottest and also needed to know that the coolers (in rad and the new AUX) were doing a good job of cooling the fluid.

Couple compression x NPT Tees and some female couplings allowed the 1/4" to 1/8" adaption while giving the depth needed so the sensor prob wouldn't bottom out in the side wall of the tee.





I got digital LED gauges, red and blue for hot and cold.

Just wondering, what do you think of the k15 kit from PATC? Was looking into it then found your thread and figured I'd get your opinion. Looks like a good kit.

It's been so long since I bought all the kits, what's the k15 kit?

-Charles

This Explorer is back on the road!

I think I need to adjust the modulator, the sifting seems a bit high. (Rpm)

*edit: it may just be that I'm noticing the difference in shift points due to the VB mods I've done... I'll pay more attention next time I drive it and record shift points.

I also think I'll double check the torque on the bands now that I've driven it around a bit.

Woohoo! That's a good feeling, eh?

thejoker91 said:

How much did all of the parts cost you to do it yourself?

Click to expand...

I probably don't want to know the total yet, but here is the breakdown...

A4LD SUPER REBUILD KIT w/STEELS,MODULATOR,FILTER,2 BANDS 90-95 - $154.99
2x Ford OEM A4LD Clutch Piston Spring Retainer E5TZ-7A527-A - $17.00
RWD Output Shaft - $50 (2x @ $25, first was not a 4.0 shaft)
RWD Tail Housing - $15 (doing a 4X4 to RWD conversion)
Ford A4LD Transmission Superior Valve Body Shift Kit 1985-95 - $48.35
Thrust Washer Kit, A4LD/4R44E/4R55E 91-96 - $36.95
A4LD/4R44E/4R55E Overdrive Sun Gear Drive " Star Washer" - $14.62
Governor Weight Upgrade, A4LD (35mm OD) (Sonnax) - $5.95
End Cap Kit, A4LD Rear Sprag 2 End Caps Upgrade (4.0L)(Sonnax) - $36.29
INTERM & O.DR. SERVO (Cover Cast #AB ) - $6.34
INTERM & O.DR. SERVO (Cover Cast #BB ) - $6.80
Snap Ring, A4LD/4R44E/4R55E Holds Rear Hub To Output Shaft (.077" ) - $3.23
Manual Index Spool stop, A4LD (Sonnax) - $20.86
Transgo Valve Body Shift Kit, A4LDJR 1985-94 - $29.57
Reverse Servo double lip seal - $1.50
New Snap forward Shell - $24.75
New OD Drum - $67.80

cklinejr said:

it may just be that I'm noticing the difference in shift points due to the VB mods I've done... I'll pay more attention next time I drive it and record shift points.

I also think I'll double check the torque on the bands now that I've driven it around a bit.

Click to expand...

I readjusted the bands, they were good.
Had time to take the Explorer out today, I think I know what's up.

It's having a hard time getting into first gear. It'll finally shift at 35mph and 4K

I added the larger governor weight and the return spring in the rebuild, but I think the governor is sticking.

I did clean it and polish it with scotchbrite pad...

I verified that the modulator is getting the 16 engine vac and that it can hold vacuum.

I have another modulator so I think ill first swap it out, just to be sure something isn't wrong with this one that came in the rebuild kit.

May have to pull the tail, we shall see...

"It's having a hard time getting into first gear. It'll finally shift at 35mph and 4K"

I think you mean getting into second gear.

Sticky governors tend to cause second or third gear starts rather than one late shift point. I don't see the benefit on a heavier spring and weight, I would reuse the original governor weight and spring, changing them to different sizes and weights could throw off your shift points. Those weights and springs are calibrated for your vehicle and rear end gear ratios. So this may be the problem.

I have battled sticky governors after rebuild before, its the first place debris tends to go from the cooler. Clean new hot fluid is a great cleaner and tends to do a better job of cleaning out the cooler than most flush machines. I always replace the governor housing and valve with new OEM when I rebuild the A4LD just because they are inexpensive and even though you clean them with great care they just stick, its a very common after rebuild issue. Lubegard make a good product that can help keep sticky valves free.

If the governor turns out not be the problem its going to be in the valve body.

Thanks, yes first to second. I was much too tired to be making posts last night.

The weight I used was the sonnex upgrade (35mm I believe). The spring I added was the return spring that came with one of the update kits I got. It's supposed to prevent the weight from sticking so I'm wondering if I do have a debris in the governor situation. (I flushed out the rad cooler, I should have just replaced it [it only has 1000 miles on it, it he rad was one of the things I replaced right before the trans crapped out.])

Do You have any recommendations on good place to get the replacement gov body? If they're cheap and I have it apart I might as well put on a new one.

Thanks again for your help,

-Charles

The good news is that the cooler is doing a great job.



Red is Temp out of trans, Blue is temp back in. I still need to mount these gauges. they are just sitting loose on the dashboard now.