Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 63 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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I got my ac fixed this summer and it is so nice! I did a lot of the work, but in the end I had to have some shop help. I know I have the manual and you have the 700r4, but I really don't mind mine on the highway. It's probably not much for mileage, but it is great for passing.
 



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I'ts just over $550 in parts for everything on my '92 explorer (using parts from a 1994)..

That's compressor, hoses, condenser, evaporator, receiver/dryer and orifice tube. If I buy it local from the real A/C place it's a little more (< $600) and it'll be lifetime warranty...

Granted I'll have to do the work myself but I get my r-134 for < $6/can (I think I paid $4 last time) and I have an a/c vacuum pump.

~Mark
 






[QUOTE ] Heck, if it didn't have 5:13 gears it would be a highway cruiser it rides so nice after the SAS.[/QUOTE]

Your so right! They really do ride nice when they are set up right. I really don't understand why the factory can't turn out a modern day solid axle when some guys with a welder and hand tools can do it.:(
 






[QUOTE ] Heck, if it didn't have 5:13 gears it would be a highway cruiser it rides so nice after the SAS.

Your so right! They really do ride nice when they are set up right. I really don't understand why the factory can't turn out a modern day solid axle when some guys with a welder and hand tools can do it.:([/QUOTE]

Mine rides nice too. I agree. Must be the same reason jeep can't build a wrangler based pickup with a Hemi or cummins. With my extended arms I get more body roll that I did on my explorer with stock length arms. I think it could benefit from a currie antiroc, but then I think why did I go with extended arms if I am going to do that, so I won't. Brian- I would think yours sways worse than mine in corners with with your supple coil overs?
 






I don't get much body roll because of the coil overs. I adjusted the spring stop so the main spring starts working after about 2" of compression. Main spring is heavier, and along with the shock dampening, restricts body roll. At slow speed turns on the highway I get quiet a bit of roll.
 












Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...........Coil Overs
IMG_20141209_162525_696_Large_.jpg
 






Kirby, I get lousy mileage, but I expected that. I also have 35" tires to your 37's. If I keep it around 60-65 mph, it does fine. If the 700R4 had a higher overdrive, it would be nicer to drive on the street. As is, its smoother than most trucks as there is no rear end hop while going over the uneven concrete freeway seams.
 






Kirby, I get lousy mileage, but I expected that. I also have 35" tires to your 37's. If I keep it around 60-65 mph, it does fine. If the 700R4 had a higher overdrive, it would be nicer to drive on the street. As is, its smoother than most trucks as there is no rear end hop while going over the uneven concrete freeway seams.

I have 35s like you. I must have a higher overdrive with the 5 speed though. It cruises fine to about 80. There is a little vibe but it is from my driveshaft. It his the gas tank skid so hard that it wobbled out the slip splines.
 






The Truckhaven run last weekend was outstanding! The Explorer impressed me again with how well it does on the trail. I pushed it harder than ever, and all I got out of it was some paint rubbed off the corner of the front bumper. I did, however, notice a slight thump in the front suspension when it was going from full stuff to full flex. It was more of a feeling than a noise. After I clean the rig up, and do my usual post run roll around on a creeper suspension check, I am going to try and track down the new thump.

The driver side rod end (heim) at the frame end of the radius arm was squeaking loudly the second day out, after I stuffed it in some powdered dirt. Sprayed it out with some lubricant and it went away. That rod end has squeaked in the past and some silicone takes care of it, but why does it squeak? No play in the joint, its tight, but whenever it gets dirty, it squeaks. Is that just something to expect with 1" rod ends?
 






Rod ends (heim joints) don't pivot off the bolt. They are a ball and socket type fitting. The inner ball that the bolt goes through is fixed in place by spacers so its the ball that squeaks. Unless the bolt is loose, which its not (checked torqued, still at 175 foot pounds).
 












I did a Google search and found a bunch of threads on other forums about squeaky heims. Most people spray them with their preferred lubricant after runs, or when they start squeaking.
 






I cleaned up the Explorer and did my usual damage assessment after a run. New scratches over the old scratches above both rear tires, and the paint is gone on the left corner of the front bumper. Nothing else visible. Found a loose bolt on the main skid plate. Sprayed all of the bushings and heims with silicone.

I think the thump I felt on the trail is the steering. The drag link is attached to the tie rod with a saddle type mount and heims. When the steering wheel is turned on pavement, the saddle will shift forward or rearward, causing a very slight thump. Under extreme flex conditions, the thump is more pronounced.

If time allows, I am going to pull the coil overs tomorrow and see how they are doing. I have had so much trouble with them in the past that I really don't trust them and its been about a year since I had them out. Still thinking of upgrading to Fox, Radflo or ADS, but its a bunch of money I want to spend on other things right now.
 






Rick took this picture
rick10.jpg


I noticed in my post run inspection that the leaf springs slightly contact the rear bolt of the forward spring perch at full stuff. I know springs wear out faster when they de-arc, but I like the flex I am getting so don't mind. I am thinking about welding the spring perches onto the frame, then pulling the bolts. It would also help when sliding along rocks to not have the front bolt there to snag on. Anybody see any issues with doing that?
 












I am working on a project related to the Explorer; the tow bar. I am sick and tired of it rattling around in the RV hitch. Its causing wear on the hitch pin holes and getting worse. I have tried a set screw on the top of the hitch mount, and it broke in half on the last trip. I replaced it with a new, much stronger bolt on the bottom of the hitch, but it is not a complete, worry-free fix. I have a solution, and when its finished, it should work for nearly every hitch out there if anyone wants to copy it. I came up with it while finishing up my version of a "J" hook hitch pin (I will post pictures later). However, I am having trouble finding one piece of hardware; I am trying to find a 5/8"-11 bolt, fully threaded, at least 4" long, and either grade 5 or 8. I have had no luck locally. I am going to call Ababa and Fastenal in the morning. I located a 36" section of hardened threaded rod that would work with a nut welded to the end to make it a bolt, but the piece was over $25. All of the other threaded rod I found is not graded and as such, not to be trusted with my favorite vehicle. Anyone have a section of hardened 5/8"-11 rod that they don't need? Anybody have a fully threaded bolt? Anyone have a suggestion on where I can find one?
 






How about mcmaster carr?
 









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