95 4.0 Rear Engine Seal

marragtop · October 27, 2008

I have an oil leak that accumulates where the trans bolts to the engine. THis weekend I degreased everything, started it up, and got underneath it to watch the leak. The leak is definitely coming from where the trans mates with the engine. I'm assuming this is the rear engine seal that is leaking. Do you all agree? Also, how hard is it to replace? It's the 4.0, 4x4, AT, with 186k on it.

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

If you are sure its oil and not trans fluid. Then its the rear main seal. This requires removing the trans. Make sure your PCV system is operation correctly, as a build up of pressure in the block will cause the main seal to leak.

marragtop · October 27, 2008

Thanks for the reply. I was reading my Chiltons and it says to remove the transmission and the transfer case also has to be removed. Does this sound right? I've pulled transmissions before, but not from 4wd vehicles (yet!).

Also, where is the PCV valve located on a 95 4.0? if the PCV has it's normal rattle, can I assume that that's OK?

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

It is not necessary to remove the transfer case. It just makes it easier to handle by removing it. I personally wouldn't recommend removing it, it just makes for extra work. As for the PCV, this is a very inexpensive part. I recommend replacing it for insurance purposes, seeing your going through all the trouble of doing the main seal.

marragtop · October 27, 2008

I'm hoping that the PCV is clogged and maybe replacing it will reduce the pressure on the seal, so I won't have to replace the seal. I know it's a long shot, but I've got nothing to lose.

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

I wouldn't count on that helping much at all. One good thing is you have an automatic trans, so its not like you are putting a clutch at risk.

marragtop · October 27, 2008

Has anyone had any good/bad experiences with any of the oil additives such as Barrs or Wynns engine stop leak? Generally, I refrain from using these types of products because I think there is a long term risk of additional damage. But with 186k on this Explorer, I'm not sure I want to go through the effort of putting the seal in. I think it's time I search for yet another Explorer.

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

Band-Aid at best. If your lucky it may help for a while but its just delaying the inevitable.
Good luck.

Cobraguy · October 27, 2008

Heavymentill said:
It is not necessary to remove the transfer case. It just makes it easier to handle by removing it. I personally wouldn't recommend removing it, it just makes for extra work. As for the PCV, this is a very inexpensive part. I recommend replacing it for insurance purposes, seeing your going through all the trouble of doing the main seal.

Ok. You have my attention. How are you going to remove the trans without removing the transfer case? Or are you suggesting he actually does remove it, but leaves it attached to the trans?

A rattling PCV valve should mean it's fine. But what's more likely to be an issue is the vacuum lines to it. Make sure they are good.

I would try and see if I could find the special tool for installing the rear main seal. The installed depth is critical...and having it absolutely square in the bore is critical. The tool ensures that. Many do it without it, but it's good piece of mind if you have it.

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

Cobraguy said:
Ok. You have my attention. How are you going to remove the trans without removing the transfer case? Or are you suggesting he actually does remove it, but leaves it attached to the trans?

A rattling PCV valve should mean it's fine. But what's more likely to be an issue is the vacuum lines to it. Make sure they are good.

I would try and see if I could find the special tool for installing the rear main seal. The installed depth is critical...and having it absolutely square in the bore is critical. The tool ensures that. Many do it without it, but it's good piece of mind if you have it.

Leave it attached. Special tool? Do you mean a seal driver? The old gasket and a mallet work fine. Just drive it in till its fully seated. It's not science.

marragtop · October 27, 2008

Is a normal trans jack going to be able to handle the trans with the transfer case attached? btw... this will be an on my back job..... no lift.

Heavymentill · October 27, 2008

I've done it 3 times without a lift and once with. I have a cheap JC Whitney trans jack, and a regular jack to help when aligning it to re-install the trans. Without a lift, I've done it twice with no help at all. If you can, get someone to help when trying to align the torque converter bolts to the flex plate. Also inspect your flex plate for cracks as there is an updated version. If it looks like its got a circular plate welded on the mounting area where the bolts go through its the old version the new one looks like its all one piece.

Cobraguy · October 27, 2008

Heavymentill said:
Leave it attached. Special tool? Do you mean a seal driver? The old gasket and a mallet work fine. Just drive it in till its fully seated. It's not science.

That is not the procedure Ford calls for. They give a spec from flush and a tool to put it there. To each his own...but I've used the tools with great success.

I was hoping you were going to show us a way to replace the seal by leaving the transfer case intact...

dogfriend · October 27, 2008

I thought they were designed to leak. Mine does. Just a little bit, not enough to go through the trouble to mess with it.

marragtop · October 27, 2008

I could probably live with the leak if I could convince my wife to park it on the asphalt street instead of our concrete driveway. Oil and concrete don't mix too well....

Heavymentill · October 28, 2008

Cobraguy said:
That is not the procedure Ford calls for.

Procedures are for people who get paid by the hour.

95 4.0 Rear Engine Seal

marragtop

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Heavymentill

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marragtop

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Heavymentill

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marragtop

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Heavymentill

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marragtop

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Heavymentill

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Cobraguy

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Heavymentill

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marragtop

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Heavymentill

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Cobraguy

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dogfriend

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marragtop

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