1997 Explorer issues..

Hello all,

Just bought a 1997 Explorer and I love it but it's been a little unloved previously if you know what I mean. A few things are occurring and any help would be brilliant!

1. The servo makes a creaking noise sometimes when braking and the brake pedal kicks back. I guess it's the abs kicking in but what might cause it.

2. The 4x4 and low range lights flash intermittently

3. The suspension detection system light says it is off even when it's on but the light only comes on after about 20 mins of driving.

4. The engine makes a skittering noise when in idle - I can't hear it when I'm driving unless at a slow speed.

Any help with any of the above greatly appreciated!

No 1; does it only do this just as you come to a halt?
No 2; When you turn the 4x4 switch to low, can you hear a mechanical thump from the transfer case?
No 3; Check the self leveling device is connected to the rear axle and has not 'popped' off the stud.
No 4; Where does the sound seem to come from?

Hope this helps, Kev.

Thanks Kev,

1. I don't think so...it doesn't seem to.
2. I haven't turned that switch yet - I've just got the car and am treating it with kid gloves as I want it to last me as long as possible...but I'll turn the with and report back to you.
3. I'll check that it hasn't popped off...does it actually connect directly to the axle?
4. The sound comes from the engine block and I think I found out what it is. I did some research online and it looks like the timing chains are loose and slapping. Seems like that's a common issue with some Explorers. Not sure how much it costs to fix that but from what I've seen the engine has to come out...! So for now I just want to drive it carefully and get as much life out of it as possible.

Thanks again for any words of wisdom Kev. I'd love to learn more about car mechanics but as you can probably tell I'm a bit of a novice. I'm practical though and learn quick.

Cheers,
P

Welcome to the UK Forum!

#1 is likely to be needing new hubs. I'm guessing the ABS kicks in at slow/low speeds? Is is down to the ABS sensor itself deteriorating. Sometime you can get lucky and remove it and clean it (with switch cleaner) but most times as the ABS sensor is integral to the hub, best to replace the entire unit.

#4 is likely timing chain rattle. If you're getting able to hear it currently then you can try to delay the enviable by installing the OO12M kit and replacing rear timing chain tensioner. Frequent oil/filter changes using quality fully synthetic oil wlll also help, but it might be a case of too late.

These trucks are not difficult to work on, the real issue is parts availability in the UK. Ford UK are useless and avoid cheap Chinese junk parts. But a quick Forum search will more often than not yield the answer, failing which shout up and we'll do our best to help.

Thanks ihpj

1. A the last MOT a week ago apparently the brake discs were replaced so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it? The brakes seem to be working fine, it is just the creaking noise and kick back.

4. I did some reading of other threads and the next step seems to be to diagnose that it actually is the timing chain that is the issue and not accessories that are rattling.

P

...

1. Actually Kev it does only make the sound when I come to a halt or almost halt, and the gentler I brake, the less it does it. However if I'm underway and brake hard it doesn't do it at all...?

P

It will be one of your ABS sensors then. You can take them out of the hubs and clean the ring gear inside the hole. Use compressed air and magnets to get as much crap out as possible. And obviously check there are no breaks in the wires and the connectors are clean [near the front bumper] first.

If you have a rattle at the front it can be done with the engine in the car unless it is the balance shaft chain, tho the tensioner for this can be repaired by fitting new spring and guide onto the old bracket apparently (I've not done this but some others have) so this can also be done without removing the engine. If you remove the rad then there is plenty of room to work with. Only the rear chain requires the engine removal but an alternative is to drop the transmission. This is fine in a workshop with lift and transmission jack etc but a ball ache on your driveway (go on ask me how I know). I have done the rear chain dropping the tranny and it is tight and you need to know what your doing.
All chain work ideally needs the otc 6488 tool kit tho again others have found work arounds.
You can buy complete kits of all the tensioners, guides, chains and sprockets but I would only do this if you know all the stuff is shot. If you have time to inspect the front chains and guides by pulling the front covers off you can then order only what you need.
tascaparts.com is a ford dealer in texas that will ship to uk and have good prices for oem stuff.

Below is a pic of the chains to show how complex it is. You will probably need front cassette and main chain guides


If you are thinking of doing the job yourself then let me know and I can get a pdf of the assembly instructions to you.

2000StreetRod (Dale) has done a thread inspecting the chains etc so worth a search and read.

Edit : All the part numbers are American. UK Ford use finis No.s. Somewhere there is a uk thread that has some of the uk part numbers listed if you want to go to your local ford stealers for a giggle

Thanks guys..

Thank you Kev and Jonalsson, really appreciate the help. I've been away from the car for a while but will have a closer look at both issues and let you know how I get on.

In the meantime the yellow engine light has come on - I think to do with recent cold temperatures and a lean fuel mix.

Best,

P

Psmyth said:

Thank you Kev and Jonalsson, really appreciate the help. I've been away from the car for a while but will have a closer look at both issues and let you know how I get on.

In the meantime the yellow engine light has come on - I think to do with recent cold temperatures and a lean fuel mix.

Best,

P

Click to expand...

The temp can effect the mixture but not on its own as the ecu in conjunction with MAF and lambda sensors should be able to adjust the mixture. HOWEVER without a code you could be guessing which bank? Lean or rich? Misfire? or no end of other things.

I will append the above with the thought that if you were intending on doing the oom12 kit, replacing the upper and lower manifold orings may sort it! Although you would normally get a rough code idle with those leaking in air.

Something else to consider it being is disparity between the cam and crank sensor if the chain is too slack.