power window motor removal?

hey guys, my power windows on my 93 Eddie Bauer are not working quite right. when i push the button to go up or down all i hear is a clicking noise and sometimes the window goes up or down and sometimes it doesnt. i know the motor is turning because i can feel it. most of the time i end up hitting the button and pulling it up. i figured it must be a gear on the motor that is either stripped out or missing teeth. but when i went to take it out i only can take out one bolt. the rest of whats holding the motor in are rivets.
so is there a way for me to take it out? or am i gonna have to take it into a shop? any suggestions?

thanks! that helped alot on the rear windows.
but what about the front windows? same type of thing? because all i see are rivets...

yeah it's basically the same for the fronts, you have to drill the rivets out, and then put new rivets in, or bolt them in.

No...you do not,

I repeat...DO NOT!!!!!!!! need to drill out the rivets if all you are doing is replacing the motor. I just completed this project on my '93 Sport.

You have to drill out one of the dimples in the door (it's covered up by the lower left part of the speaker mount, so you'll be able to see it when you take out the speaker) with a 1/2" drill bit to expose the third screw. Take out the screws, and the motor drops out. The two other screws are behind holes that are just to the left of the speaker. Re-installation is the same thing in reverse.

It's a delicate operation...It's a lot tougher getting the motor re-installed, but it will align itself once you tighten down all the screws. The rivets have nothing to do with mounting the motor, and you'll make the project a lot harder than it has to be if you just need to replace the motor.

thanks guys! titan was right about the little dimple. all went well. only drawback was that the little bushings were 9 bucks a set

Well, at least you didn't have to spend $50 for a new motor, like I did...heh

red.EDDIE.4x4 said:

thanks guys! titan was right about the little dimple. all went well. only drawback was that the little bushings were 9 bucks a set

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ohhh nine bucks, let me cry for you

i was expecting them to be more like 5 or so.

I had trouble with my drivers side motor and I took the motor out plugged it in and it started working. I greased the rails and it took off fine and so far so good.

Did you buy the HELP brand part? I have always ordered a gear kit from ford for a full size truck (87-91). Its about $25 per kit, but it comes with a tube of grease and a new center gear. The white plastic one is the only difference.

Whats the HELP part number if you have it?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...t=window+motor

My window froze in the down position. The switch activated a clicking sound in the door but the window would not budge. The switch seemed to work but the motor seemed shot.

If you think it's the motor DO NOT REMOVE THE REGULATOR!!! You don't need to in order to replace the motor. The motor comes out independent of the regulator. No rivet drilling, no replacement bolts or any of that!!! If it's not the regulator - leave it alone except to lubricate it!!

Drilling the 1/2" hole is no big deal but do not go too far, be gentle, the bolt is right there. (Ford™, PLEASE HELP US UNDERSTAND WHY THE DIMPLE AND NOT A HOLE???)

Remove the speaker and all the mysteries of the inner door are revealed. You can see the motor and get your hand in there to remove it.

For me, prior to installing the new motor, I removed the old motor, plugged in the new motor to test it and discovered it worked fine. And then, for the hell of it, I plugged in the old motor while it was out to test it. IT WORKED FINE, TOO!!!

I generously lubricated the regulator tracks with lithium grease and sprayed some Tri-Flow™ into pivot points, reinstalled the OLD motor and ran it for a good quarter hour; up and down, down and up - works like a charm!!! Better than before! Maybe a loose connection or a rusty joint or track??? Who knows?

Took the new motor back to AutoZone®!

Net cost: $0.

Thanks about drilling the dimple!

Titan09 thanks a ton for discovering the dimple; can't imagine how you figured that out! Worked like a charm on my 1995 Explorer Sport. Once removed, my motor tested fine and I tested the switch tested fine too, so I took the other advice and lubed the heck out of the rails and joints. I'll enjoy it while it works but it's mysterious!

Sure glad this old thread is still here, I would have never figured out the hidden bolt behind the Dimple. After reading above of others having luck with their motor, once removed I had my hopes built up... but alas... deader than a doornail both in and out of the truck. I'm assuming the connectors are the same on both front doors, so I think before I count it out completely I'll pull the other panel off, hook the motor to that connector and see if it works on that side. The switch appears to be working, then there were a few questionable results as well. Checked a few of the junk yards around and none have any motors for my '94 so if it's bad I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new one. I'm happy it's still running well and no major issues.

JUNO said:

Sure glad this old thread is still here, I would have never figured out the hidden bolt behind the Dimple. After reading above of others having luck with their motor, once removed I had my hopes built up... but alas... deader than a doornail both in and out of the truck. I'm assuming the connectors are the same on both front doors, so I think before I count it out completely I'll pull the other panel off, hook the motor to that connector and see if it works on that side. The switch appears to be working, then there were a few questionable results as well. Checked a few of the junk yards around and none have any motors for my '94 so if it's bad I guess I'll have to break down and buy a new one. I'm happy it's still running well and no major issues.

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Might want to expand your "ask around for..." field. I haven't done a side-by-side comparison but having done both motors on my wife's '92 F-150 4x4, and done both the motors on my '92 Explorer, I'd be willing to bet that they're the same motors. I'm not sure how they're doing things now but back when every dinky little town had their own junkyard, you could almost guarantee that the guy who ran it would be able to tell you "Naw, we don't have any of those, but a doo-ma-hickey from a 73 Buick will fit right in!"

There USE-TO-BE no less than a dozen junk yards within 10-12 miles from where I live. Now there are two that I know of, the rest are all gone. My brother, when he lived next door was looking for a used rear end for his son's Dodge Dakota, the closest one he found as 523 miles away in SW Missouri, we live on the Illinois-Wisconsin State Line. In this area the prices of scrap steel skyrocket and they yards sold many, if not all, of their old vehicles and parts for the extra cash. They use to offer about $125 to pick up junkers, then it jumped to $350 and everything dried up around here. There's a scrap yard less than 2 blocks from my house that goes 24 hours a day, grinding up old cars and loading railroad cars full of scrap steel. No idea where they go when they leave here but always piles and piles of old vehicles waiting to be loaded into the car shredders and turned into scrap steel.

The steel scrap goes to a port, then ends up in China, Singapore, Korea, or thereabouts. We then buy it back as new appliances or vehicles, or steel plates, rods, or beams. We used to do that ourselves until the EPA made it too costly. Not criticizing, just facing today's reality. Years ago I watched three foundries go out of business because they couldn't meet the ever-changing pollution requirements. All three were customers of mine.

Hi all,

I have had my passenger side power window motor replaced early last year and last week the same one has Bremen again (makes a clunk noises as it try's to go up/down though the gear skips)

Is there something else that is breaking the motor or what?

Two motors in the space of 10 months is not really ideal.

Thanks,

Awaiting your reply,

Jake

Hey Jake, not sure I'm really following what you're saying. Clunks while the window is going up/down, or clunks when the window bottoms out/gets to the top?

I only ask because my front passenger window occasionally (as in, it's doing it now) does the clunking when it bottoms out or gets to the top. That's not a biggie, I just need to pull the door panel and tighten up the screws again.

What HAS become an issue is that the window has gotten 'cold blooded'. When the weather is warm, it goes up and down just fine. But when the weather is cold, the darn thing is slower than a slow boat to China!

Lubricate the Regulator with White Lithium Grease and don't forget the rollers at the ends of the arms and the metal tracks they run in. lubricating the window channel inside the door helps as well