A4LD Solenoid Replacement

After driving for the past few years without OD (tried the band adjustment with no luck and electrics are OK), my torque converter lockup has gone out too. I am fairly confident the OD solenoid is to blame, and possibly now the lockup solenoid as well. Although I am still gathering the pieces to swap to the m5od, that project is still a ways off, so I think I am going to try and replace the solenoids.

My questions are:

Does the valve body need to be removed to replace the solenoids (from my searching, it looks like they are accessable once the pan is removed)?

If so, how difficult is the valve body to remove? Is it simply held in with a few bolts, and comes out as one piece, or is one of those delicate little things with a million pieces that will fall out if I tilt it at the wrong angle?

Thanks in advance!

OK, I should have searched a bit more before posting, looks like I cannot replace the solenoids unless I remove the valve body.

In that case, I have read that there is a separator that will keep the little bits in place once the VB is removed. Is this separator securely in place, or will it fall off if I accidentally tilt the VB while removing it?

Also, from what I have read, the VB gaskets should be replaced, but are there any other soft parts that are not recommended to be reused?

I am hoping this is one of those things that sounds a lot more complex than it actually is.

It's really not that complicated to R&R the VB. There are however several other possible issues that could be the cause of your lack of OD and lockup.Look here

http://www.explorerforum.com/Singleton/exp.html

Also, if your temperature sensor (not the gauge sending unit) is fubar, your engine will operate in open loop, not allowing converter lockup. The ECM is waiting for the engine to warm up to operating temp. There are a few other things that the ECM has to see for converter lockup like the vehicle speed sensor. Does your cruise control work? If not that may be the issue. The OD problem may be the wiring inside the tranny, it is known to fail. You'd be able to see this when you drop the pan as the solenoids are in plain view once the pan is out of the way.

You should refer to the transmission section for a few tutorials on transmissions/VB.

Don't have LED taillights do you?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157011

The separator plate is bolted to the back of the VB.

wood1 said:

Don't have LED taillights do you?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157011

Click to expand...

No LED lights, but I was towing a trailer when the lock up went out. Just went out and unhooked the trailer and took the truck for a spin. Sure enough, the torque converter locked. The wiring is fairly worn on the trailer, so that must have been the problem. Had no idea the lights could affect the transmission like that, thanks for that, that saved me some headaches.

The missing OD I can live with, but not losing the lockup (I don't go much faster than 60 anyways). Looks like I have some trailer wiring to address, but that should be much easier than tranny work.

That reference page has a ton of good info too, thanks!

Glad to help.

If the brake controller wiring is no good for the trailer, then it might send a false signal back to the PCM which is similar to a closed brake switch or a ground loop (similar to the LED low current draw issue). This will interfere with the cruise control, TCC & possibly overdrive engagement. The computer thinks that the brake is being applied when it's not.

BrooklynBay said:

If the brake controller wiring is no good for the trailer, then it might send a false signal back to the PCM which is similar to a closed brake switch or a ground loop (similar to the LED low current draw issue). This will interfere with the cruise control, TCC & possibly overdrive engagement. The computer thinks that the brake is being applied when it's not.

Click to expand...

Wait, what's this now? I just lost TCC and cruise control after I LED'd the whole truck. Did I just screw something up?

Add a load resistor then see if you still have the same issues.

BrooklynBay said:

Add a load resistor then see if you still have the same issues.

Click to expand...

I was hoping to skip that part...found a flasher relay that works great to eliminate the constant "On" problem with LED's. I'll try a reswap of the glass bulbs before I go buying load resistors. Is it just the brake lights or should I swap all of them. Ugh man, I've spent hours testing every circuit involved and never, ever though of the brake lights. I just figured at 156k the OG speed sensor or TCC solenoid took a crap. The speed sensor was leaking pretty bad though, connector and cable were all loaded up with fluid.

Try the brake lights first. This issue doesn't affect every vehicle. I have LED brake lights on my 1995 van. I've never used the cruise control on it so I can't say if it has any effect upon its operation. I know that it doesn't affect the TCC because I didn't notice any difference in the way it shifts after the LEDs were installed. Maybe it's the brand of the LEDs? Another way to test this is to put an incandescent bulb into the 3rd brake light while the LEDs are in the taillights.

BrooklynBay said:

Try the brake lights first. This issue doesn't affect every vehicle. I have LED brake lights on my 1995 van. I've never used the cruise control on it so I can't say if it has any effect upon its operation. I know that it doesn't affect the TCC because I didn't notice any difference in the way it shifts after the LEDs were installed. Maybe it's the brand of the LEDs? Another way to test this is to put an incandescent bulb into the 3rd brake light while the LEDs are in the taillights.

Click to expand...

Lol, there's an LED in there too Only one though because the other socket melted and I'm awaiting USPS to get my address right. I'll swap those out tomorrow after work and take a ride. If that fixes it, great. I still have a box of Sonnax parts and a shift kit I never installed yet AND the fluid looks terrible so I might as well stop dicking around. Thanks for the insight BB, I'll report back if that has any effect.

Hey Brooklyn. Just wanted to let you know that swapping out the LED's did not solve my problem. However, my DPFE sensor crapped out again at some point over the weekend and my ignition wires were failing. Didn't realize that until I tried starting it and it was running like dogshit. Went to go make sure the wires were snug and I felt the zap. Replaced those and the DPFE sensor showed up today so I changed that....now, with the rear still in the air it seemed to me that the TCC was locking up. Hit 50, tap the brakes and RPM's would go up a little and speed would drop a few MPH. Few seconds later the opposite. Idk, seems awkward but I'll confirm tomorrow when I can actually drop the truck and my wife's car isn't in the way. I remember reading somewhere about a "pin out test" to confirm the PCM is commanding lockup but I couldn't find it. PCM is still laying on the floor so hopefully I can find it tomorrow. It's been a rather long day :-\ Thanks BB.

The connector for the TCC solenoid, and the 3-4 shift solenoid only has 3 wires. The center connection is positive 12 volts. The solenoids receive a ground from the PCM.