HELP Removing Rear Knuckle

joefnh · 02-12-2009, 03:46 PM

I have a 2003 Explorer with a 4.0L V6 4x4 and I am in the process of removing the rear knuckle to have the wheel bearing replaced.

As I am trying to remove the 3 ball joint mount points, I have to remove the pinch bolts. On what would be the head of the bolt, is a square head that cannot rotate due to a nearby flat on the knuckle housing. The nut came off OK but I cannot take the bolt out.

I am assuming that I need to remove the pinch bolt fully to be able remove the upper control arm ball joint. I have banged on the end of the bolt with a brass rod quite hard and the bolt will not budge at all.

Any ideas? Do I have to remove the bolt fully? I am assuming that the bolt shaft actually helps captivate the shaft of the ball joint.

Thanks in advance

--Joe

*gijoecam* · 02-13-2009, 07:43 AM

Correct. The three bolts in question slide through a groove machined into the ball joint to help retain them in the event the bolt loosens or the head breaks off. As long as the remaining piece doesn't fall out, the joint will be retained in the knuckle... loose, but retained.

This is one of those cases where you just need a bigger hammer. If you have them, place the brass hammer on the bolt, then whack it with a heavier 4-lb baby sledge or something similar. They're likely just corroded to the knuckle, that's all.

Also, make sure your CV joint stub that sticks through the bearing/hub assembly is loose. It's much easier to pop it through before you have the knuckle dangling in mid-air.

-Joe

joefnh · 02-13-2009, 04:41 PM

Thanks Joe, it did take a "bigger hammer" it took the combination of a 5lb mini sledge and a acetylene torch to get those pinch bolts out.

Now before I re-assemble the knuckles do I have to replace the pinch bolts with new ones? How about the axle nuts?

In looking into the Haynes manual I cannot find a torque spec for the axle nut, does anyone know what it is (for both the rear and from axles)

--Joe

*gijoecam* · 02-13-2009, 06:45 PM

If it was mine, and I had to heat them and pound them out, I'd probably replace 'em. You can probably get away with re-using them though.

Can't help with the torque spec before Monday though... The manuals I have at home are only through '01... sorry. Maybe someone else on here has an '03 manual?

joefnh · 02-13-2009, 06:59 PM

Thanks Joe, do you have to replace the axle nuts?

What would happen if the axle nut was over torqued? especially on the front axles. I had replaced those recently but had to guess on the spec .

--Joe

*gijoecam* · 02-13-2009, 07:38 PM

Officially, the word from Ford is yes. They're a squash-nut and only designed to be used once. However....

Lots of people on here have re-used them, myself included. Not sure offhand what the torque spec is on that either, but IIRC, the front for my 98 was around 200 ft*lbs.

Over-torquing the fronts could result in a stripped nut, stripped threads off the CV shaft, or both. That's about it. It's not, however, going to hurt the bearing (provided it doesn't loosen up due to being stripped). The way the hub is designed, the clamping force from the spindle nut clamps the inner 'race' against a shoulder on the outer flange. It's a hard stop, so no matter how tight you make it, it's not going to overload the bearings.

-Joe

joefnh · 02-13-2009, 07:48 PM

Thanks Joe that good to know. I suspected that the nuts could be reused.

I did find out on the following website that the torque spec for the front is 184 ft/Lbs

http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/35/192/157591741.pdf

Another website listed the rears at 203 ft/lbs for a 2002 explorer

Thanks again

--Joe

*goatman* · 02-14-2009, 04:09 PM

The thing that helped me out the most was PB Blaster. I soaked the nuts and the joints over night. The next morning, the nut came off the stud easily and the bolts needed very little beating to back out. The tuff part was getting the joints to let go of the knuckle. Even after much soaking, lt took a lot of vibration with a short sledge and a wood block to get them loose. And I when I got the uppers loose, I found it easier to remove the rear alignment bar still attached to the knuckle and put it on the work bench to get the lower joint loose. Then, Good or bad, before I re-installed the knuckles I coated the joints with anti-sieze (sp??).

joefnh · 02-14-2009, 05:49 PM

Goatman thanks for the reply. I too use PB Blaster quite liberally and most of the time it does help. In this case it still required quite a bit of hammer work. I did also leave the alignment ball joint attached until after I removed the knuckle, then removed it while holding it in a vise

Again Goatman good advice.

Thanks to both Goatman and gijoecam, I just finished the job a couple of hours ago and all went well with the re-assembly. Joe I did replace the pinch bolts as suggested. Its good to have a quiet truck again, it rides great.

Thanks again

--Joe

ndreaves · 05-21-2012, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gijoecam

If it was mine, and I had to heat them and pound them out, I'd probably replace 'em. You can probably get away with re-using them though.

Can't help with the torque spec before Monday though... The manuals I have at home are only through '01... sorry. Maybe someone else on here has an '03 manual?

AllData shows 150nm (111 lb-ft) for tightening the pinch bolt lock nut. Another thing, using PB Blaster in the pinch slot will help tremendously in removing the pinch bolt. Always leave the locking nut on the bolt, loosening it to be even with the bolt end. (saves the bolt threads).

CORRECTION to the above. The 111 lb-ft is for the lower pivot. The ball joint pinch nut is 90nm (66 lb-ft)

02-12-2009, 03:46 PM	#1
joefnh Wannabe Elite Explorer New Hampshire 03 XLT Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 222 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	HELP Removing Rear Knuckle I have a 2003 Explorer with a 4.0L V6 4x4 and I am in the process of removing the rear knuckle to have the wheel bearing replaced. As I am trying to remove the 3 ball joint mount points, I have to remove the pinch bolts. On what would be the head of the bolt, is a square head that cannot rotate due to a nearby flat on the knuckle housing. The nut came off OK but I cannot take the bolt out. I am assuming that I need to remove the pinch bolt fully to be able remove the upper control arm ball joint. I have banged on the end of the bolt with a brass rod quite hard and the bolt will not budge at all. Any ideas? Do I have to remove the bolt fully? I am assuming that the bolt shaft actually helps captivate the shaft of the ball joint. Thanks in advance --Joe

02-13-2009, 07:43 AM	#2
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 8,345 Vehicle Specs	Correct. The three bolts in question slide through a groove machined into the ball joint to help retain them in the event the bolt loosens or the head breaks off. As long as the remaining piece doesn't fall out, the joint will be retained in the knuckle... loose, but retained. This is one of those cases where you just need a bigger hammer. If you have them, place the brass hammer on the bolt, then whack it with a heavier 4-lb baby sledge or something similar. They're likely just corroded to the knuckle, that's all. Also, make sure your CV joint stub that sticks through the bearing/hub assembly is loose. It's much easier to pop it through before you have the knuckle dangling in mid-air. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

02-13-2009, 06:45 PM	#4
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 8,345 Vehicle Specs	If it was mine, and I had to heat them and pound them out, I'd probably replace 'em. You can probably get away with re-using them though. Can't help with the torque spec before Monday though... The manuals I have at home are only through '01... sorry. Maybe someone else on here has an '03 manual? __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods *"We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

02-13-2009, 07:38 PM	#6
gijoecam Village Idiot Trenton, MI 98 ExSport, '00 F-150 Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 8,345 Vehicle Specs	Officially, the word from Ford is yes. They're a squash-nut and only designed to be used once. However.... Lots of people on here have re-used them, myself included. Not sure offhand what the torque spec is on that either, but IIRC, the front for my 98 was around 200 ftlbs. Over-torquing the fronts could result in a stripped nut, stripped threads off the CV shaft, or both. That's about it. It's not, however, going to hurt the bearing (provided it doesn't loosen up due to being stripped). The way the hub is designed, the clamping force from the spindle nut clamps the inner 'race' against a shoulder on the outer flange. It's a hard stop, so no matter how tight you make it, it's not going to overload the bearings. -Joe __________________ -98 Explorer Sport, 4.0 SOHC, K&N drop-in, LEMON in progress! -'00 F-150, mucho mods "We need to allow Darwinism take it's course and let the idiots weed themselves out of existance."* ~ Rick Horwitz We must believe in free will — we have no choice. ~ Isaac Bashevis Singer I'm not smart, just a resourceful idiot. ~ Me

02-13-2009, 07:48 PM	#7
joefnh Wannabe Elite Explorer New Hampshire 03 XLT Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 222 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks Joe that good to know. I suspected that the nuts could be reused. I did find out on the following website that the torque spec for the front is 184 ft/Lbs http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/35/192/157591741.pdf Another website listed the rears at 203 ft/lbs for a 2002 explorer Thanks again --Joe Last edited by joefnh; 02-13-2009 at 08:38 PM.

02-13-2009, 04:41 PM	#3
joefnh Wannabe Elite Explorer New Hampshire 03 XLT Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 222 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks Joe, it did take a "bigger hammer" it took the combination of a 5lb mini sledge and a acetylene torch to get those pinch bolts out. Now before I re-assemble the knuckles do I have to replace the pinch bolts with new ones? How about the axle nuts? In looking into the Haynes manual I cannot find a torque spec for the axle nut, does anyone know what it is (for both the rear and from axles) --Joe

02-13-2009, 06:59 PM	#5
joefnh Wannabe Elite Explorer New Hampshire 03 XLT Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 222 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks Joe, do you have to replace the axle nuts? What would happen if the axle nut was over torqued? especially on the front axles. I had replaced those recently but had to guess on the spec . --Joe

02-14-2009, 04:09 PM	#8
goatman Elite Explorer Oakdale Tn. '05 XLT V8 Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 241 Vehicle Specs	The thing that helped me out the most was PB Blaster. I soaked the nuts and the joints over night. The next morning, the nut came off the stud easily and the bolts needed very little beating to back out. The tuff part was getting the joints to let go of the knuckle. Even after much soaking, lt took a lot of vibration with a short sledge and a wood block to get them loose. And I when I got the uppers loose, I found it easier to remove the rear alignment bar still attached to the knuckle and put it on the work bench to get the lower joint loose. Then, Good or bad, before I re-installed the knuckles I coated the joints with anti-sieze (sp??). __________________ Mike (goatman) Henry 05' XLT 4x4 V8. 2" RoadBully Spacers (Front), 275/70/16 Yokohama's, Edlebrock RPM series muffler with 2 1/2" exhaust. K&N Filter 91' F150 4x4 351 XLT Lariat 94' XL, 4.0, 5 speed, 2" bl, 32x11.50(sold it )

02-14-2009, 05:49 PM	#9
joefnh Wannabe Elite Explorer New Hampshire 03 XLT Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 222 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Goatman thanks for the reply. I too use PB Blaster quite liberally and most of the time it does help. In this case it still required quite a bit of hammer work. I did also leave the alignment ball joint attached until after I removed the knuckle, then removed it while holding it in a vise Again Goatman good advice. Thanks to both Goatman and gijoecam, I just finished the job a couple of hours ago and all went well with the re-assembly. Joe I did replace the pinch bolts as suggested. Its good to have a quiet truck again, it rides great. Thanks again --Joe Last edited by joefnh; 02-14-2009 at 06:00 PM.