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Solved Everything you wanted to know about PATS.

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Howdy all!

I have a dead 2001 Ranger Edge 3.0L

-Turn ignition, no crank but systems have full power, dome lights etc etc.
-Recently have replaced plugs, fuel engine filter and after this started, the starter
-Manual push start doesn't work nor does manual crank
-Fuel pump "waaaaaaa-AAH" stop
-Have tried my backup key also, no dice
-Checked all fuses and relays, swapped relevant ones
-Only owner, only 49k on it
-No abnormal behavior/performance recently

-And yes, rapidly flashing anti-theft light

So this is PATS, right? I'm going to get the status code shortly but I've been doing a lot of googling and such (here and general internet) and I've found guides that'd be useful if I had a set of Ford Dealer tools but I haven't found a lot of resources for what I can do aside from verifying it's broke. Am I being blind to a good guide?

Failing that, anyone know a good Ford tech around Columbus, OH?
 



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Wasn't aware that the Rangers had PATS. The PATS disable on my '00 302 shuts down PCM grounds to the injectors. Might check there. You will see B+ on one side of the injector connector with the ignition on. That voltage should drop to a pulsating 4 - 5 volts when rotating starter if the PCM is operating the injectors.

Maybe someone can confirm whether PATS exists on you truck.
 






Yeah ranger's had PATS, pretty much any Ford vehicle 98 and up.

You do have a PATS issue, unfortunately that can only be fixed with someone with a WDS or NGS, which in other words means a dealer. No idea on the cost, though.

I have had issues where the PATS on my 98 Ex has randomly gone AWOL and lost the key codes. Sufficed to say, SecuriLock is a b!#(h!
 






Howdy all!

I have a dead 2001 Ranger Edge 3.0L

-Turn ignition, no crank but systems have full power, dome lights etc etc.
-Recently have replaced plugs, fuel engine filter and after this started, the starter
-Manual push start doesn't work nor does manual crank
-Fuel pump "waaaaaaa-AAH" stop
-Have tried my backup key also, no dice
-Checked all fuses and relays, swapped relevant ones
-Only owner, only 49k on it
-No abnormal behavior/performance recently

-And yes, rapidly flashing anti-theft light

So this is PATS, right? I'm going to get the status code shortly but I've been doing a lot of googling and such (here and general internet) and I've found guides that'd be useful if I had a set of Ford Dealer tools but I haven't found a lot of resources for what I can do aside from verifying it's broke. Am I being blind to a good guide?

Failing that, anyone know a good Ford tech around Columbus, OH?

Did it start fine just before, and has any work been done to it? Then check that the PATS receiver is securely attached to the ignition key cylinder. The connector there under the column cover may be disconnected or not attached well enough. Working around that cylinder can do that.
 






Did it start fine just before, and has any work been done to it? Then check that the PATS receiver is securely attached to the ignition key cylinder. The connector there under the column cover may be disconnected or not attached well enough. Working around that cylinder can do that.

It's mostly always worked perfectly. A couple months ago it was having some chugging issues at highway sppeds and so I had to replace a non-firing spark plug (per ADB2 readout) did them all, though they probably could have gone another 5yr w/ the apparent usage. Had to repair gas tank after vandals drilled it (JB Marine Weld). Did break pads and oil before that. Battery is due for a replace before another Ohio winter, but is still fine for now. No remote starter, factory stereo. There's an old mp3 hard drive cartridge player installed w/ a FM relay to the antenna, but that was done like 10 years ago.

Tore column open, pulled lock core, reseated it, held secondary key right up to security device at underside of column, checked wires for gaps/shorts/etc no dice. Didn't remove underside bottom due to torx, but tbh it doesn't really matter, does it?

But thanks for clarifying who/what capabilities that I'll need to take it to. That's really exactly (lol, all?) I needed at this point.
 






to hell with anti theft,if they steal mine they will have to work on it,so i know they will bring it back,LOL.
 






2 working keys are the typical requirement. I don't know of any system that allows additional key programming with just one key, as someone who is using the car temporarily (say, a mechanic or so) could link an additional key to the system without the owner knowing.

The wiring from the PATS module to the GEM is as follows:
BLACK/YELLOW--RF Ground
DARK GREEN/WHITE--RF Power
GRAY/ORANGE--Receive
WHITE/LIGHT GREEN--Transmit

This information is useful if you're trying to install a remote start system and need to wire in a bypass module. I bought a bypass module that came with some p¡ss-poor instructions and struggled with this for days. Turns out the module was defective. :confused: Had I known all this ahead of time, I wouldn't have wasted hours trying to switch everything around and making a real mess.

If you're not installing a remote start bypass, then there's really no reason to cut these wires, unless you seriously know what you're doing. Remember, your Explorer won't start unless the PATS system is fully operational, and there is no bypass.

i have a slightly different situation and all i need to do is get power to my starter solenoid wire. i am building a rock crawler and have removed the entire stock drivetrain and running a v8 on propane. i have read that there is a way to wire two wires together on the transponder module together to just give me power to the starter. if this is true what wires do i need to splice.
 






Don't think so. The PATS is software in the PCM which kills the injector operation. Unless the PCM software is satisfied nothing is going to happen. The PATS module signal to the PCM is a digital code not replaceable with a short.

I spent a year trying to avoid paying $400 to have the PCM reprogrammed to turn off PATS without success. Convert the engine to pre PATS which involves lots of things or pay to have the reflash done.

The definative '96 - '01 PATS, Fuel Pressure, Injector, and Wiring Harness Thread

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364540
 






Don't think so. The PATS is software in the PCM which kills the injector operation. Unless the PCM software is satisfied nothing is going to happen. The PATS module signal to the PCM is a digital code not replaceable with a short.

I spent a year trying to avoid paying $400 to have the PCM reprogrammed to turn off PATS without success. Convert the engine to pre PATS which involves lots of things or pay to have the reflash done.

The definative '96 - '01 PATS, Fuel Pressure, Injector, and Wiring Harness Thread

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364540



everything else in the truck works just fine.... i.e. windows, locks, gauges, stereo, power seats. the whole shebang. i just really wanted to keep the look stock without having to run a wire from the battery to a push button on the dash but instead of fighting all this pats nightmare i just may have to suck it up and do that. push button starts make you look cool right :smoke:
 






Are you using a carb to feed the propane?

If you are not using the injectors then a push button will work just fine. In fact, my '00 before PCM reflash would operate the starter from the key and rotate the engine but no injector operation.
 






yes its a carburated system. so technically i just need a battery wire to the starter. a 12v ACC lead to the distributor and i need power to go to the starter solenoid from the "key start". but when i tried it i did not get any power to the starter wire going to the solenoid.

so let me ask another question. if the pats system actually kicked in, will the engine still turn over but not start?

and also. if the digital transmission shift selector thing (mounted on tranny) isnt hooked up, will it kill the signal to the starter? pretty much saying that it is NOT in park or neutral?
 












now keep in mind that i have removed the ecu out of the firewall because i figured i would sell it with the motor and everything i pulled out.

now it makes me really think that if the system thinks its not in park, because the neutral safety switch isnt hooked up it wont let the engine turn over. that is essentially all i need.

is the neutral safety switch located in the transmission or in the steering column. is there a way to bypass it?
 






yes its a carburated system. so technically i just need a battery wire to the starter. a 12v ACC lead to the distributor and i need power to go to the starter solenoid from the "key start". but when i tried it i did not get any power to the starter wire going to the solenoid.

so let me ask another question. if the pats system actually kicked in, will the engine still turn over but not start?

and also. if the digital transmission shift selector thing (mounted on tranny) isnt hooked up, will it kill the signal to the starter? pretty much saying that it is NOT in park or neutral?

That "range sensor" is where the neutral safety circuit is. If you're not using that then you will need to use something else, but the 4R trans only came with those kind. What trans are you using?
 












the truck is an 01. i took the whole wiring harness out. for the transmission and transfer case. is there 2 wires on that big sqaure harness plug that i can just wire together and bypass the "range sensor"?

as far as i know the tranny that came out of the sport trac was the one with a dipstick. and did not have the little 2 or 3 wire sensor above the shift linkage.
 






This has gotten pretty far off the PATS thread subject. You might attract more responses specific to your problem is you started a new thread.

We now know you have a 2001 Explorer. Third effort; what transmission are you using?

I have the electrical schematics for the '00 Explorer if one or several would help. Should be no difference from the '01.
 






Antitheft and Alarm Systems: Description and Operation
ANTI-THEFT
The passive anti-theft system (PATS) uses radio frequency identification technology
to deter a driveaway theft. Passive means that it does not require any activity from
the user.

The PATS uses a specially encoded ignition key. Each encoded ignition key contains a
permanently installed electronic device called a transponder. Each transponder
contains a unique electronic identification code, with over 72 million billion
combinations.

Each encoded ignition key must be programmed into the vehicle powertrain control
module (PCM) before it can be used to start the engine. There are special diagnostic
procedures that must be carried out if new encoded ignition keys are to be
configured.

The encoded key is larger than a traditional ignition key. The key does not require
batteries and should last the life of the vehicle.

The transceiver module communicates with the encoded ignition key. This module is
located behind the steering column shroud and contains an antenna connected to a
small electronic module. During each vehicle start sequence, the transceiver module
reads the encoded ignition key identification code and sends the data to the PCM.
The control functions are contained in the PCM. This module carries out all of the
PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition
key and controlling engine enable. The PCM initiates the key interrogation sequence
when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to ON or START.

The PATS function uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. All elements of PATS
must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components
are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.

PATS uses a visual theft indicator located on top of the instrument panel. This
indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON
or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will
either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition
switch is turned to ON or START. PATS also "flashes" the theft indicator every two
seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.

The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the
vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle
security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be
removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues.

The PATs key is used on the following Ford family trucks and suvs:

FORD: 1996-2001 MUSTANG, TAURUS
1998-2000 CONTOUR
1998-2001 CROWN VICTORIA
2000-2001 FOCUS
2002 THUNDERBIRD
1997-2001 EXPEDITION
1998-2002 EXPLORER
1999 F-250 LD
1999-2001 F-150, RANGER, WINDSTAR
2000-2001 EXCURSION
2001 ESCAPE
LINCOLN: 1997-1998 MARK VIII
1998-2001 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
2000-2001 LS
1998-2001 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY: 1996-2001 SABLE
1998-2000 MYSTIQUE
1998-2001 GRAND MARQUIS
1999-2001 COUGAR
1998-2002 MOUNTAINEER

Additionally, PATs can be found on the follow Ford family cars and mini-vans:

1998-up Contour
1997-up Crown Victoria
1999-up Escort
2000-up Focus
1996-up Mustang and Taurus
1998-up Windstar
1998-up 2000-up Lincoln LS
1998-up Lincoln Mark VIII, Lincoln Continental and Lincoln Town Car
1997-up Mercury Grand Marquis
1998-up Mercury Mystique
1996-up Mercury Sable

Following are the instructions for programming a blank key (you must have at least one working key for this procedure).

The PAT

1. Make sure you have both keys.
2. Turn on car but don't start. Watch "theft" indicator untils it goes out.
3. Turn off and repeat procedure with second key.
4. After "theft light goes out, insert new key and turn on.
5. Wait until the theft indicator goes off and then turn off switch.
6. Wait thirty seconds. New key is now programmed into security module. Repeat for any other keys.


1. Erase any old codes by entering the factory code.(buttons will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Press 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time within 5 seconds.

To set new code:

1. Enter factory code (numbers will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Enter personal 5 digit code(decide beforehand) within 5 seconds of each previous one.
To unlock all the doors,press the 3/4 button within 5 seconds of the driver door unlocking.
To lock all doors and set alarm system,press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time.
To disarm or reset a triggered alarm,just enter personal or factory code.

Do not set a code with five of the same consecutive numbers. It's too easy for thieves to figure out.

Deactivating and Activating Autolock

To deactivate the "autolock":
With all doors and tailgate closed but NOT locked,and ignition OFF.
1. Enter 5 digit code
2. While holding 7/8 button in, press and release the 3/4 button.
3. Release 7/8 button
The horn will chirp once if the "autolock" was deactivated
or two times if "autolock" was activated.

To reactivate the system,repeat steps 1 thru 3

Alternate Method To Deactivate And Activate Autolock

Do steps [1] through [5] (below) within 30 seconds or you'll have to do it over. If you have to do it over, wait 30 seconds between attempts.
Close all doors securely.

1.Turn the ignition key to ON.

2.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

3.Turn the ignition key from ON to OFF.

4.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

5.Turn the ignition key back to ON .The doors should lock and unlock.

6.Press the power door UNLOCK control. The horn should chirp ONCE to confirm successful switching of the autolock system

Troubleshooting:

The engine does not start and LED remains off.
1. Check PATS system fuses
2. If alarm is fitted check if LED functions for alarm: if not check cigar lighter fuse (also used for LED)
3. If not go to main dealer

Engine does not start: LED flashes rapidly Leave ignition on until the LED starts to flash a 2 digit code: (sequence- pause-sequence)
Check the following codes:
Code flashes:
1:3 Key code not received. Is key screened by other keys or objects? Try different key: if okay then first key is faulty. If not go to main dealer
1:4 Partial code only received. Try again. If not okay use different key. If not go to main dealer
1:5 Key not programmed into PATS. Program key as above using master
1:6 Faulty link between PATS module and EECV Go to dealer .
For more information and troubleshooting tips:
PATS-Troubleshooting-DIAGNOSTIC-Service-Tips and:
Programming Ford-PATS

Can this procedure be done with just one working PATS key and a new blank? Everywhere I read it says you need two original keys, but I only have one. Am I **** out of luck?
 






1998 Ford Explorer anti-theft system - won't start

Please help - The anti-theft system will not allow the explorer to start. We bought the car used. It came with 1 key. No key less entry came with. Out of the blue, it will not crank and the theft light keeps blinking repeatedly. I've been told that I need a new key. Do I have to go to the ford dealer or can an automobile locksmith do this as well? I've already replaced the fuel pump thinking that was it, only to find out it was the anti-theft system. I've read so many articles on this situation. So it seems to be common amongst ford explorers. I believe its the pats system that is programmed in the key?? I don't want to waste money on a locksmith if this will not work.
Thank you in advance for any help you can send my way.
Julie
 



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Please help - The anti-theft system will not allow the explorer to start. We bought the car used. It came with 1 key. No key less entry came with. Out of the blue, it will not crank and the theft light keeps blinking repeatedly. I've been told that I need a new key. Do I have to go to the ford dealer or can an automobile locksmith do this as well? I've already replaced the fuel pump thinking that was it, only to find out it was the anti-theft system. I've read so many articles on this situation. So it seems to be common amongst ford explorers. I believe its the pats system that is programmed in the key?? I don't want to waste money on a locksmith if this will not work.
Thank you in advance for any help you can send my way.
Julie

Hi Julie, the PATS vehicles require that it receives a coded signal from the key that it has in its memory.

Inspect the key and the ignition cylinder area carefully, look for any damage or loose wiring. If it worked before that you know of, hopefully the wiring at the ignition key cylinder is loose or disconnected.

You can test the key, and its key code, by only turning the key to on(not start). If the THEFT light begins to flash, then the key code wasn't correct, so turn the ignition off(don't waste time and battery by going to start with the THEFT light flashing).

That PATS wiring at the key cylinder may be loose or barely attached. It's underneath the plastic cover around the steering column. That cover is two pieces, and takes a Phillips screw driver to remove.

Mine was barely in place on mine many years(2005) ago. The result was that sometimes the engine wouldn't start. After discovering the THEFT light flashing, I was able to turn the key on, check the light, then off and on, check the light, etc, until the light stayed on steadily. Then the engine would start. It was later(months) when I learned about the wiring there, and discovered the connector not attached(just close). I taped it in place, and it has never failed to start since then.

If you cannot find anything amiss with the key or that wiring, find the best pricing from a dealer and take it to them. Good luck,
 






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