1998 explorer 4.0 ohv cam sensor alignment | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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1998 explorer 4.0 ohv cam sensor alignment

JnkYrdDog

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panama city fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 explorer 4.0 ohv
Hi all new here . I am working on a 98 explorer 4.0 ohv engine. I am using a 99 engine and there were differances like fuel line cam sensor etc. So I am changing intakes lower everything going fine and noticed the cam sensor plugs are different. I was going to just change the sensor housings on the top but they are different so I took it out of the engine and changed it by accident it got turned so it is out of alignment all data says you need a special tool to align it. Is there a old school way to do this. Any info would help.
 



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Thanks for the help. It seems like you all know everything else here but cannot help me. not even a reply like I said thanks
 






It's officially called a CMP Syncronizer.

There are stern warnings on the page associated with this.

CAMSHAFT POSITION (CMP) SENSOR
Removal & Installation

CMP sensor is located on rear of engine, behind intake manifold. Before removing, note position of electrical connector on CMP sensor. Remove upper intake manifold. See UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD . Disconnect CMP sensor. Remove CMP sensor screws and CMP sensor. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure CMP sensor electrical connector is pointing in original direction. Tighten CMP sensor to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
CMP SYNCHRONIZER

CAUTION: Synchro Positioner (T95T-12200-A) is required to properly install synchronizer. See Fig. 2 . Failure to use synchro positioner during installation will cause fuel injection to be out of time and may cause engine damage.

CAUTION: DO NOT rotate crankshaft when Synchro Positioner (T95T-12200-A) is positioned on CMP synchronizer. Armature tab will be damaged and synchronizer timing may be shifted.
Removal

1. Position crankshaft to TDC of cylinder No. 1, on compression stroke. Note position of electrical connector on CMP sensor.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Unplug harness connector from CMP sensor. Remove CMP sensor screws and CMP sensor from positioner. Remove synchronizer hold-down bolt and CMP synchronizer.

Fig. 2: Exploded View Of CMP Synchronizer Assembly (Typical)
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

CAUTION: DO NOT rotate crankshaft while synchronizer is removed from engine.
Installation

1. Install Synchro Positioner (T95T-12200-A) on synchronizer housing. See Fig. 3 . Rotate synchronizer shaft until vane on shaft aligns with slot on synchro positioner. Rotate synchro positioner until engaged into notch in housing. Dip drive gear in engine oil.

Fig. 3: Installing Synchro Positioner On Synchronizer Assembly (Typical)
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

Fig. 4: Positioning Synchronizer For Installation
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
2. Rotate sychronizer assembly so that synchro positioner is 60 degrees counterclockwise of crankshaft centerline before inserting synchronizer assembly into engine. See Fig. 4 .
3. As synchronizer is inserted into engine, synchronizer will rotate. When seated, synchronizer electrical connector should be located in original position.

CAUTION: If CMP sensor electrical connector is not positioned correctly, DO NOT reposition connector by rotating synchronizer. This may cause fuel system to be out of time with the engine, causing possible engine damage or an engine misfire. Remove synchronizer and reinstall. See step 3 .
4. Install hold-down clamp and tighten bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install CMP sensor to synchronizer and tighten to specification. Ensure CMP sensor electrical connector is in original position. Reconnect wiring to CMP sensor. Connect negative battery cable.
 






fig2
fig2explodedviewofcmpsy.gif

fig3
fig3installingsynchropo.gif

fig4
fig4positioningsynchron.gif
 






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So on a 99 4.0 ohv engine with a 2000 CMP synchronizer, the arrow should be at 60 degrees off center?
 






If you search around under my name there is a thread where I covered this on my 99. Thread was 5-6 years ago.
 






HELP- I've spent an hour and a half looking into this cam sensor thing , but still have not found a procedure that describes what I have & what to do with it... I have a 2 part sensor- not a 3 part. I'd like to stab this thing in & get it over with. Surely someone knows where the "rotor" inside is supposed to point when the housing is in the block & the engine is at TDC (compression)...
 






For clarification- I have a 98 XLT 4x4 4.0L OHV 5 speed...
The "sensor" is composed of a "housing" that fits into the back of the block. The housing has the gear that meshes with the cam gear, a shaft extension that spins the oil pump shaft & a semi-circle metal "rotor". The "rotor" spins around and the CMP SENSOR picks up its movement though a slot in the "housing"...
 












Just found:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264672
going to attempt this method- too bad there weren't any pictures to go with it... Wish me luck!
Here are a few picts from my process- please don't take these as gospel- I won't have the engine installed for another week- so I don't know for sure that I did it correctly. Just figured that since I already loused this post up- I might as well contribute something...

10646787_891893907505829_7169260914391463742_n.jpg

10615371_891893894172497_7221606203587926632_n.jpg

10644839_891893944172492_1568460552850589835_n.jpg

10636119_891893980839155_3010669259998939265_n.jpg

10600619_891893994172487_6921531481510445560_n.jpg

10625023_891894017505818_7752741316750983485_n.jpg

10574336_891894037505816_2329419107659097198_n.jpg
 






Notice the rotors position in respect to the little slot in the rear (of the photo- actually the front in relation to the engine orientation)... It aligns with the passenger side of the slot when at the 26 degrees specified by the procedures outlined above & the driver side when at TDC compression stroke... I have installed the engine & it started right up & has driven over 250 miles... I did replace the cap (sensor) part of the unit before installation due to internal resistance resulting in the 12.23 Voltage reading. Hope that helps somebody in their future installation- it was much easier setting it with the engine out than it would have been with the engine installed! Feel free to ask questions about the tester (use of the DVOM) if it isn't clear from the pictures- very easy :) Good luck!
 






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