Blue Devil Head Gasket Sealant

So my 96 4.0 v6 has a blown head gasket, and is causing overheating, etc. I don't have the funds right now to get it repaired (around $900), but I was looking for a short term solution so I at least have a vehicle to drive.

The mechanic mentioned "Blue Devil" head gasket sealant, and said he had heard of it working but had never tried it. He said if I wasn't planning to fix it anyway, why not try it.

I have done some research online and some people seem to have had success, while others say no. It seems like snake oil to me, but at the same time, I don't see why not.

Has anyone on here ever tried it? Or know anyone who has? Any feedback is appreciated, because I believe this is my last resort.

I am not a big fan of additives and I know nothing about Blue Devil but I do know people who have used K&W Block Sealer with good results. If you aren't going to be able to fix it anyway this might be worth a try. Just search K&W Block Sealer review on Google. Here is one link worth looking at.

http://www.myhonestmechanic.com/articles/engine-block-sealer-additive.shtml

Just make sure you drain out as much antifreeze as possible before using it.

i have used stop leak for a headgasket, but it was BarLeak. My rig was overheating and blowing white smoke with a coolant loss. Just remember to go by the instructions step by step. I had a waiting time after installing the stop leak for 12-24 hours, I waited 24. Just remember u are going to have to drain the cooling system several times durning this procedure. My rig hasn't had a problem since then, and I took it out and dogged it trailing to test it.

I have heard from different sources Blue Devil does work.
There are some videos on YouTube about Blue Devil worth checking out.
Just use the keyword Blue Devil

Good Luck,
Rick

unclemike said:

i have used stop leak for a headgasket, but it was BarLeak. My rig was overheating and blowing white smoke with a coolant loss. Just remember to go by the instructions step by step. I had a waiting time after installing the stop leak for 12-24 hours, I waited 24. Just remember u are going to have to drain the cooling system several times durning this procedure. My rig hasn't had a problem since then, and I took it out and dogged it trailing to test it.

Click to expand...

By "Drain the cooling system" do you mean just draining the radiator? How can I drain the entire cooling system?

The drain is normaly at the radiator, but there is still coolant in the system, as yellow coupe stated you have to get as much antifreeze out as possible. Before I started I ran the engine for about ten minutes, waited for it to cool and then opened the radiator drain ****. I had to use a hose to keep the antifreeze from dropping on the ground. (antifreeze is toxic if induced, so if there are any small animals around letting it go on the ground is not a good thing, and of course there is the contamiation concern)
After the draining slowed down, I opened the radiator cap, this allows air in and more coolant comes out.
I then closed the drain and reinstalled the cap, and ran it for another 5 minutes, keeping a close eye on the temp gage, if it starts running hot, shut it down. Let it cool and redrain what you can.
If you have a large container to catch the antifreeze, just removing the lower radiator hose will do a very good draining. Try to have a least a 5 gallon container, there always seems to be more than what u think is in there. And you have to think of disposal if you can't reuse the coolant.
Then went by the instructions on the bottle.
This is just how I did it, other members will have other ways, so if one catches this thread more ideas will be posted.

unclemike said:

The drain is normaly at the radiator, but there is still coolant in the system, as yellow coupe stated you have to get as much antifreeze out as possible. Before I started I ran the engine for about ten minutes, waited for it to cool and then opened the radiator drain ****. I had to use a hose to keep the antifreeze from dropping on the ground. (antifreeze is toxic if induced, so if there are any small animals around letting it go on the ground is not a good thing, and of course there is the contamiation concern)
After the draining slowed down, I opened the radiator cap, this allows air in and more coolant comes out.
I then closed the drain and reinstalled the cap, and ran it for another 5 minutes, keeping a close eye on the temp gage, if it starts running hot, shut it down. Let it cool and redrain what you can.
If you have a large container to catch the antifreeze, just removing the lower radiator hose will do a very good draining. Try to have a least a 5 gallon container, there always seems to be more than what u think is in there. And you have to think of disposal if you can't reuse the coolant.
Then went by the instructions on the bottle.
This is just how I did it, other members will have other ways, so if one catches this thread more ideas will be posted.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. Yes, I know that draining the radiator leaves a lot of coolant remaining in the system. I suppose starting and running it after draining should cycle some of the remaining back through the radiator for the 2nd draining. Hopefully removing the lower hose should also release some of the coolant remaining inside the engine, water pump, etc. I was wondering if I had to try to vacuum it out somehow or something.

Your Welcome. let us know how the work on your rig goes!!

I have heard that "Blue Devil" is reasonably effective. From what I understand, it contains the same stuff the dealers had to put in the engine, to kill the Cash-For-Clunkers vehicles. Of course, in that case, it went into the crankcase, where the bearings/etc.. didn't like it so much. Read the directions, but I don't think the Blue Devil stuff requires draining the cooling system. I could be wrong, so read the directions.

Blue Devil for Engine sealant...
Red Devil for A/C sealant
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBVTrKRL3J0&feature=related


Blue Devil sealant demonstration
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-24QDGXb-c&feature=related

I have heard Blue Devil does work.

I work with a guy who used Blue Devil block sealer it his 84Ranger 4 banger and said it worked great.

He said the headgasket was so bad it was blowing steam out the tailpipe but after a few minutes of idling, the steam stopped and the engine starting idling like there was nothing wrong with it.

He sold the truck shortly after but he says the guy he sold it to is still driving it and that has been 6 months.

The headgaskets on my 96 V8 would leak when the truck was parked for a few days. It wouldn't leak when driving it. Well I drove it to Philly and put 1500 miles on it and it didn't loose any coolant.

I put some aluma-seal stop leak in it, let it idle for about 30 minutes and 10K miles later still no leaks. Supposably this stuff contains a trace amount of sodium silicate. A radiator repair man told me this stuff sets up like concrete when trying to rod out the radiator tubes. So I guess the thing is to not to use too much of it.

I did put some of this Aluma-seal in an 82 Fiat Spider that had a headgasket that was leaking externally. Twin cam Fiat engines always start leaking coolant below the distributor then eventually blow.

I sold it to a guy and he drove it from Tennessee to Toronto Ontario and made it home! I wasn't trying to screw the guy. I told him the headgasket was in need of replacement and might blow. I thought he was going to trailer it. I didn't know he was going to drive it back.

He said he didn't care about the engine, just as long as the car was not eat up with rust. He was Canadian..

The only thing that scares me about the block sealer is if you decide to replace the headgasket, how hard would this stuff be to remove? Would it fuse the cylinder head to the engine block?

But like my co-worker, if I had something I was going to sell or trade-in with a bad headgasket I'd try the block sealer.

Not sure if I would use it on something I planned on keeping.