'06 3.0 Fuel pressure

Hi all, I did a search but could not find the correct answer.

I have a '06 Ranger with a 3.0 and it does have the shrader valve on the fuel rail. What I am trying to diagnose is if I have a full pressure problem but can't find what the fuel pressure should be.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
ace

PS No CEL either, but have a strong hesitation at idle and while driving.

If you can't find it in google go to the auto parts store and pop open a Hayes manual. No new to buy it, just find fuel pressure. Should be around 40 or something like that. Don't forget to check how quickly it builds that pressure, and see if it bleeds off

colintrax said:

If you can't find it in google go to the auto parts store and pop open a Hayes manual. No new to buy it, just find fuel pressure. Should be around 40 or something like that. Don't forget to check how quickly it builds that pressure, and see if it bleeds off

Click to expand...

Thanks, that was going to be my next choice. I did Google it and it brought me here, glad it did though...

ace

Faulty Coil Pack?

Just an update. I checked the fuel pressure today and it was at 68 PSI running and then dropped to 60 PSI with engine off and stayed there for atleast two minutes without dropping.

I was wondering if I had a faulty coil pack, the CEL would turn on, correct? The reason why I ask is because I haven't had a CEL come on.

Thanks in advance,
ace

The ECU has a severe attention-deficit problem with a misfire situation. It took 3 miles with a dead #3 cylinder before the CEL lit up. I went through a deep puddle and flooded the wires on the right side. Never had a problem before, but I think 10 year-old wires with 210K on them was the problem.

Replace the plugs if they have over 50K on them, use only Motorcraft or Autolite Platinums. Bosch do not work with Ford's coilpack on the 3.0's. Replace the wires. You can buy the Motorcraft OEM's for the same price of retail aftermarkets if you go to rockauto ($32/set!).

I would start with cleaning the throttle body butterfly and idle air control, then plugs and wires. Silicone dielectric compound on both ends of the plug wires keep moisture out and make easier to remove wires in the future.

A bad coilpack -may- or -may not- trigger a CEL, depending on the severity of the failure. Again, I've experienced it takes a dead miss over an extended distance to trigger the CEL. I think you'd feel the miss before the ECU. I think it's Ford's programming to minimize the CEL activation......