Help!! 98 Xlt Installation Of Front Drive Shaft

Help - does anyone out there know if there is a trick to installing a front drive shaft into the transfer case? I can't seem to figure out the proper procedure to install the bearing case and drive shaft into the transfer case. I have a 98 4.0L 4x4 XLT.
Thanks!!

Heh? the front driveshaft's ball interface looking thing just sits right into the transfer case's front output flange that looks like a cup. Then you bolt it on with I think six small but rather long screws.

Welcome to this forum!

You make it sound tooooooo easy!! Not my experience so far! My questions are -

What is the correct procedure to attach the drive shaft to the transfer case flange/cup? I have tried putting the ball bearing case in and then trying to place the drive shaft into the case inside the flange, but it keeps pushing the ball bearing out of the case. Or, should I be putting the ball bearing case over the end of the drive shaft and then trying to place the whole thing into the flange? Does the orientation of the drive shaft have to be in a specific position/3 oclock, 6 oclock etc..? Are there any markings I should be looking for to line up the drive shaft with the flange? Thanks for your help!!!! (I'm getting really frustrated!!)

I've re-read your last post a few times now and it sounds like you actually pulled the drive shaft apart where you're not supposed to.

Your driveshaft, as a whole, should look like the set of images below.
It should hold itself together even if you hold it vertically on either end

It sounds like you took the driveshaft apart at the rubber boot -- the "CV" joint -- which is pictured in the third/bottom image.

Thanks!

Yep - that's exactly what I did! I have never had to work on this stuff before so I just thought I had to undo the bolts at the CV joint - I didn't realize the thing came apart like you showed in the pix! Thanks so much for sorting it out for me!

Thats all you should have to do to remove the driveshaft:

- unbolt the 6 bolts at the CV joint
- unbolt the 4 bolts (on the U-joint's metal strap) at the other end of the driveshaft (on the front differential's yoke)

In the picture above, the 6 bolts near the CV are on the driveshaft only because I didn't want to lose them. But they do slide right out and the entire driveshaft should hold itself together without those 6 bolts.

But if you did take apart the CV, then I think you need to either get a new/used driveshaft, or get that one rebuilt by a shop.

Wow I skrewed up too

I messed up and pulled my dive shaft out of that rubber boot and now I'm thrashing to get it back in. I got a puller and have been trying to remove the bearing case from the transfer case with no success, any suggestions on removing it and how to get the gear shaft back into that rubber boot? Thanks

If you pulled the CV joint apart then you should probably go to a junk yard and pull one or get a rebuilt one from a shop or online. Once that joint is separated its never going to be right. If you're lucky a sop might fix it but you could probably get a rebuilt shaft for less than the shop would charge. If you're going to go that route then just make sure the 6 bolts are out and spray the crap out of with PB Blaster or WD-40. Then go at the CV cup with a small mallet and it should come out.

I'm curious as to what is inside of that dome shaped part (picture 2) that interfaces with the transfer case? A bearing I suspect. I have a loud click coming intermittently from this very part. Can I guy just replace this part? ... the bearing with in? ... or does the whole drive shaft assembly need to be replaced? Please and thank you for any insights you may have.

The interface at the transfer case is exactly the negative/opposite of that dome shaped part. Pictures in this post:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2885478&postcount=2

I have heard of rebuild kits for the CV joint.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4WD-4x4-Front-Drive-Shaft-Rear-CV-Joint-Repair-Kit-/370581952589

Thank you for the quick reply. What I'd really like to know is what is the name of that Dome-shaped part in picture 2 and can it be replaced independent of the front drive shaft? The (bad) clicking noise I'm hearing seems to be coming from this part (hopefully the transfer case is okay). I'm wondering if there is a bearing inside a person can get to and replace, is it best to replace the whole part (whatever it is called) or should a guy replace the whole drive shaft assembly shown in picture 1. Hopefully, this makes sense and someone can help me with insights and terminology as I begin my search for replacement parts. Please and Thank You for the help.

Oh, Okay so this is the CV joint. Does it make sense that this would make a loud click... almost a metallic snap sound when bad. This doesn't happen on every wheel rotation but it happens frequently and seems to happen at the same point as I rotate the front tire. Many thanks for the info.

As posted, that part is the "CV" or constant velocity joint, which can be rebuilt. However, considering the price of the rebuild kit, the tools you need, and the time, most people will probably opt to replace the entire driveshaft as a new driveshaft will run between $200-$300.

Yes, this makes sense to replace the whole drive shaft assemble for a bit more $. Looks like I would get a new u-joint as well. Thanks for helping me to determine the best path as I'll begin looking for parts first thing tomorrow.

Grave dig. Should there be any play or rotation in the front drive shaft when it's not moving? I get a terrible noise when driving around.

I replaced the front propeller (driveshaft) with the CV joint and new u-joint. $260 from NAPA w/$60 core exchange. On the test drive around the neighborhood the problem was solved. I turned the car back over to the wife who just drives around town and she was telling me "no problems." Yesterday I had to use the vehicle and noticed at 35+mph I hear a howling noise coming from the front drive shaft. So I'm wondering is the shaft out-of-balance? should I have greased the front u-joint? (I noticed the new one has afitting but assumed it would have been packed in factory).
Any ideas?

Answering my own question... apparently the new u-joint was not packed in factory and was howling for some grease. Live and learn. BTW, the original u-joint was sealed and still good at 140K miles. Lesson, if you see a grease fitting... hit it.
Answer to Guardian Sport... I have zero play in the drive shaft and only a few degrees of rotation when the car is in park. FYI