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Stuck after valve body repair S.O.S

Detact,

I am thinking that definitely my next step is the servo gaskets, just gotta find a ride!
 



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hey BrooklynBay I saw you respond in a previous post with:

"It could also be a valve body issue (loose bolts, blown gasket or a stuck reverse modulation spool valve.)"

Where is this "reverse modulation spool valve" located and could it be my problem too? I assume it is one of the valves in the valve body.
 












Replacing the seals and gasket for the reverse servo is not a bad idea but I don't think this is where the problem is because you are having problems in forward.

The items replaced during the repair was the gaskets for the valve body and all of the solenoids, you reused the original separator plate, right?

Have you installed the original solenoids back on to see if things change? Check for missing o rings on the shift solenoids.

Have you checked the gaskets on the plate to make sure no holes are covered? Are the gaskets on the correct sides of the plate?

Do you have good info on where things go in and on the valve body to confirm nothing has been left out or in the wrong location?

The reverse modulator valve is two bores down from the EPC solenoid in the corner, it has a "L" clip in the valve train that can fall out.
 






so, I took the valve body back off, I got the o-ring kit from a ford parts down the road. I will order the D ring kit once I get this girl home. I took the reverse valve out of the body. there was a little bit of grit, so I cleaned it out and it seems fine. The little L valve in the thermostat bypass had sort of fallen too far in to the hole and was real fun getting out. got a new torque wrench and ready to get started before the big snowstorm. thanks for all your help and I'll post an update.
 






I want to thank everyone for helping me, this has been if not fun, interesting. this is a little update and maybe some new info. I have not found this test on the forum here. it probably is on here, if it is or it isn't, this test should be a sticky at the top of the, well at least the 5r55e page.

After going through all I have posted above. I put it all back together, same thing! no reverse no drive, but 1 and 2 work.

after typing "no reverse, no drive 5r55e" in google and searching and searching I came across this quote:

"5R55E no reverse, no drive
this condition cannot be electrical
disconnect main wiring harness to transmission
if you still have no reverse and drive, it is a hard part.
if you now have reverse and drive, it is either a bad harness or bad PCM. " unquote

I unplugged my harness and now I have reverse and drive and a desperate prayer that it is the wiring harness. this should be the first thing anyone with a 5r55e and a no reverse situation should try.

stairway to a no reverse situation.

thank you all so much again. and I will keep you posted on the final fix. could someone let me know the mechanics of this and what else it could point too? I don't want anyone else to go through 6 days and 7 tranny pan drops the way I have.
 






Thanks for this information. Could you connect a 0 - 300 PSI test gauge to the main pressure port, and the EPC pressure port to take readings in each gear range (with & without the electrical harness connected)?
 






Thank you BrooklynBay for all of your help. I will have to get a pressure guage and then I will let you know the results, it will be a couple of days cuz we just got a foot and a half of snow in the north burbs of Chicago.
 






This chart should help with the comparison of pressure readings & test locations:
5R55E_specifications_from_Transgo_.jpg
 






thank you thank you , that will save me a few hours of searching!
 












I haven't been able to do a pressure test, but here is how the electrical test turned out.

TCC EPC SSA SSB SSC SSD
Solenoid 10.6 4.9 25.4 25.4 25.5 25.5
@ outside Trans Harness 10.9 5.7 25.4 25.4 25.5 25.5
@ PCM 83.5 78.7 96.3 95.1 97.6 98.1


So could this point to bad wires between the Trans and PCM? seems like an awful lot of resistance for 4 feet of speaker wire, unless they go through something with resistance that I can't find in the wiring diagram. Hopefully I am on to something here, because I have been stuck for far too long.
 






so here is the newest wire test from the 16 pin connection at the trans to the PCM, it is a test of the resistance of just the wire.

16 pin#-to-PCM#-OHMS

#1 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=8]#8 0[/URL] = 75.9 TCC Power
#2 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=8]#8 4[/URL] = .9 TSS signal
#3 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=9]#9 1[/URL] = 1.4 TSS return
#4 to #3 7 = 2.0 TFT signal
#5 to #5 4 = 1.0 TCC ground
#7 to #5 3 = .8 SSC ground
#8 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=9]#9 1[/URL] = .9 TFT return
#9 to #2 8 = .8 SSD ground
#1 0 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=8]#8 0[/URL] = 76.0 12v common for shift solenoids
#1 1 to [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=8]#8 0[/URL] = 76.3 EPC Power
#1 2 to #8 1 = 1.0 EPC ground
#1 4 to #01 = 1.0 SSB ground
#1 6 to #2 7 = 1.0 SSA ground

So my question: Is there anything like a resistor, or anything between the trans and the PCM? this # 80 PCM light blue/orange wire is a common wire for a lot of things, the shift solenoids, epc, tcc, all three O2 sensors, EGR vacuum regulator, EVR solenoid, CMP sensor, and canister vent solenoid. I am thinking that where all of these wires come together to make the one wire into the PCM has become a bad connection. the same wire goes to fuse 9 20A in the power junction box, which is the fuel pump relay and RAP module, has zero resistance back to PCM. right next to it, in the power junction box, #1 3 fuse 15A has the 75 ohms resistance back. is there a place to get a picture of the engine wiring harness connections? and is it plausible to just run wires around the bad spot?
 












Under center console?

It sounds like there's corrosion in a bulkhead connector since it affects several connections. Follow the color codes of the wires until you see the point where the bulkhead is connected.

So, that connection looks like it is up on top of the tranny. Do I need to remove the center console and access panel underneath to get to it? I don't see any other way to get to it where I can work on it.
 












OK! The garage is warm, the beer is cold, and there's a Merle Haggard song playing on the radio. Time to get started! I'll post back if I get anywhere with it.
 












I got the console out, piece of cake, no pounding required. I got my sewing needle and camera ready.
 



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lesson learned

There should be an access panel under the front carpet area where a manual transmission would have a shifter.

Got everything apart and started checking out the wiring diagram to figure out where the bulkhead connections are. I noticed that this whole circuit runs off of the fuel pump relay.... Then I got that sinking feeling.... pulled out the FPR
and it has 78 ohms resistance with no power.... checked the rest of the relays next to it and they all have 78 ohm resistance with no power. So it's not a bad connection, it is either a bad PCM or I am back to square 1. basically if the trans harness is plugged in I don't have reverse, if I unplug it I have reverse. which wire to which solenoid makes reverse? I may just have to put a switch on the *&^%&^%* thing. Thanks again for the help. I'll have to get ahold of a pressure gauge somewhere and I will post the results here. so bizarre.
 






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