Adding RCA connections for a sub

1997XLTRollover · February 3, 2015

Hey guy's I'm trying to just add a little more kick to my stereo but keep my factory headunit in my 96 Explorer. I got a 98+ sub box and am going to add a small 8" sub. Anyway does anyone know a good wire to tap into so I can add the RCA connections using one of those little boxes? My 96 never had a factory sub.

97exploder19 · February 3, 2015

Best bet is to go the the12volt.com, look up your vehicle wiring diagram, and wire the line output converter behind the radio to the rear speaker outputs.

1997XLTRollover · February 4, 2015

97exploder19 said:
Best bet is to go the the12volt.com, look up your vehicle wiring diagram, and wire the line output converter behind the radio to the rear speaker outputs.

So basically what I have to do is tap into the rear speaker wiring from somewhere in my harness and then run the RCA's. Best bet is to get the signal right from behind the head unit, put the converter under the dash and then run and RCA wire all the way to the rear?

Also I'm assuming I'm supposed to pull off the 12V+ for the rear speaker?

toypaseo · February 4, 2015

When I tapped speaker wires for signal for my Budget Bass project, I first tapped right before the OEM amp. Nothing. Then I tapped right after the OEM amp, and got enough signal.

First high-low converter I used was a PAC OEM-2. Later upgraded to an AudioControl LC2i.

Click on image for larger view.

1997XLTRollover · February 5, 2015

Wow the converter I have isn't nearly as elegant haha. But it worked when I tapped into the wiring for my 2000 Mustang, so I'll give it a shot on the Explorer too.

Kind of weird you'd have to tap it after the amp though. Usually those are supposed to be tapped before the amplification is done aren't they?

toypaseo · February 5, 2015

1997XLTRollover said:
Kind of weird you'd have to tap it after the amp though. Usually those are supposed to be tapped before the amplification is done aren't they?

Well, the PAC OEM-2 handles 2-60 watts and the AudioControl LC2i accepts up to 400 watts.

Also, keep in mind that the remote wire for the OEM amp, if you are planning on tapping that for a 12V remote turn on, is only 5V. That was not enough to trigger the Alpine amp I was using at the time.

1997XLTRollover · February 6, 2015

toypaseo said:
Well, the PAC OEM-2 handles 2-60 watts and the AudioControl LC2i accepts up to 400 watts.

Also, keep in mind that the remote wire for the OEM amp, if you are planning on tapping that for a 12V remote turn on, is only 5V. That was not enough to trigger the Alpine amp I was using at the time.

Good to know. I'll do some wiring probing to find a good one.

1997XLTRollover · February 6, 2015

Does anyone know what the mounting depth is for the 98-01 sub box? I'm trying to pick out a sub but want to be sure it fits.

What do you guys think of this sub?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z4WLYKrJgdk/p_2064CWRT82/Kicker-40CWRT82.html

chefduane · February 7, 2015

1997XLTRollover said:
Does anyone know what the mounting depth is for the 98-01 sub box? I'm trying to pick out a sub but want to be sure it fits.

What do you guys think of this sub?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Z4WLYKrJgdk/p_2064CWRT82/Kicker-40CWRT82.html

Any shallow mount sub should work. 2-3/4" to 3" max depth in the enclosure. I went with a K'wood KFC-XW800F and it sounds great. Make sure you refill the sub box with polyfill (available at any hobby type store) and take out the worthless stock filler. Makes for better low end damping. Also, line the inner panel of the rear quarter panel with rubberized sticky roofing seam tape. Provides sound deadening and prevents rattles and shakes. It's available at Home Depot. Do a search here for the name of it. Actually, I still have a bunch of it left over it you want to go that route.

1997XLTRollover · February 9, 2015

chefduane said:
Any shallow mount sub should work. 2-3/4" to 3" max depth in the enclosure. I went with a K'wood KFC-XW800F and it sounds great. Make sure you refill the sub box with polyfill (available at any hobby type store) and take out the worthless stock filler. Makes for better low end damping. Also, line the inner panel of the rear quarter panel with rubberized sticky roofing seam tape. Provides sound deadening and prevents rattles and shakes. It's available at Home Depot. Do a search here for the name of it. Actually, I still have a bunch of it left over it you want to go that route.

Thanks for the tips I'll definitely do all that. I measured my box and it looks like I have a good 3 1/2" depth. I think I may go with that Kicker sub as it seems like it's got a nice punch for its size and is a shallow mount sub.

1997XLTRollover · April 7, 2015

toypaseo said:
When I tapped speaker wires for signal for my Budget Bass project, I first tapped right before the OEM amp. Nothing. Then I tapped right after the OEM amp, and got enough signal.

First high-low converter I used was a PAC OEM-2. Later upgraded to an AudioControl LC2i.

Click on image for larger view.

Do you happen to know what wire color you tapped into for the speakers to convert to to the RCA's? I have the factory amp in my rear 1/4 being I have the 96, so will be tapping in right there. I finally ordered an amp and sub so am getting around to the install now.

toypaseo · April 7, 2015

Well, I wrote them down, but where they are at right now, I have no idea.

Maybe this PDF might help :dunno:

http://www2.crutchfield.com.edgesuite.net/pix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/127/127OEM2.PDF

I'll keep digging around...

toypaseo · April 7, 2015

Correct info might be in this thread:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180901

toypaseo · April 7, 2015

Added note... tap the speaker wires after the factory amp. I tapped right before, but there was not enough signal to work.

1997XLTRollover · April 8, 2015

Ok thanks. That looks like it might help. I still have to get my interior panel off to see what all is going on back there. I can see the amp through the seatbelt hole, but can't see the wiring.

toypaseo · May 4, 2015

1997XLTRollover said:
Do you happen to know what wire color you tapped into for the speakers to convert to to the RCA's? I have the factory amp in my rear 1/4 being I have the 96, so will be tapping in right there. I finally ordered an amp and sub so am getting around to the install now.

[MENTION=63544]1997XLTRollover[/MENTION], I ran across the PAC OEM-2 that I took out. Here is what I wrote down...

red - fat green purple
black - fat black green
blue/white - blue
pink/red - orange red
purple/black - brown pink
green/black - tan yellow
green/red - grey blue

1997XLTRollover · May 5, 2015

toypaseo said:
[MENTION=63544]1997XLTRollover[/MENTION], I ran across the PAC OEM-2 that I took out. Here is what I wrote down...

red - fat green purple
black - fat black green
blue/white - blue
pink/red - orange red
purple/black - brown pink
green/black - tan yellow
green/red - grey blue

Thanks! I already got mine all wired up, but this is good info for anyone in the future looking. I appreciate the follow up. :thumbsup:

Adding RCA connections for a sub

1997XLTRollover

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97exploder19

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1997XLTRollover

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toypaseo

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1997XLTRollover

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1997XLTRollover

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chefduane

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toypaseo

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