De-smogifyin'

Hi all;
Just wanted to ask if any of you have any info on removing all the vacuum and electrical smog junk from my '84 B-II. I already took off the smog pump and some of the big plumbing,and am pulling the engine to do some other work,so now would be the time to "simplify" the engine compartment. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Truck

Did you get a response to this question, or figure something out for yourself. I also have an 84 BII. less wires, less hoses, and a manual choke seem like a good idea to me. Di you simplify? Any pictures? I have a 2.8, 4 speed, 4WD

Desmogifyin'

So far I haven't had the money to do what I need to do,but the plan is:
*Remove all the smog junk-Done
*Replace the Distributor with one from a pre-1978 V-6 Mustang-$64.00 at AutoZone
*Cap,adapter,rotor,coil and module (blue grommet),approx.$90.00 at AutoZone (I can subtract the Module @$38.00-I have a couple in the shop.)
*Replace the carb with a small pre-smog Ford 2 bbl.(I'm going with a #64-5242 AutoLine for a '64 Falcon w/260 V-8. May need to re-jet,but it should be small enough to work. $200.00 at AutoZone) I MIGHT be able to find one for the same year/model Mustang,but it may cost more. Haven't set up a manual choke yet,but will,when I change the carb. Hope I can get the carb already configured for one,and find an OEM cable.
While it's been apart I did a little re-plumbing of my Air system,added an air coupling through the grille right behind the bumper/grille guard,also removed the Cat.Conv. and added a glass pack. Guess I should replace the windshield,but I won't do that until the Cops tell me I HAVE TO.
Truck

air pump connections to ex manifold

How did you plug the tubing flared holes in exhaust manifolds? I am struggling with that because I have not pulled engine.
Have you tried RockAuto web site?

I didn't mess with that,the tubes had been cut off and crimped over before I got the truck,and I decided to leave them alone for now. The pipe that goes across the back of the engine from one side to the other is still intact,but was C&C'd down the line a bit. If I DID want to do anything more,I'd take one out and take it with me to a parts store;they probably have,or know where to get,plugs in that thread. OR a guy could probably remove the tube from the compression nut and weld up the hole,or weld a short bolt into it then re-install it as a plug. I really intended this to be a quick-n-dirty job,but even used parts have been nearly impossible to find around here,and new/rebuilt parts are more expensive than I'd have liked,so I'll have to do it in stages.
Truck

Truckjunkie said:

I didn't mess with that,the tubes had been cut off and crimped over before I got the truck,and I decided to leave them alone for now. The pipe that goes across the back of the engine from one side to the other is still intact,but was C&C'd down the line a bit. If I DID want to do anything more,I'd take one out and take it with me to a parts store;they probably have,or know where to get,plugs in that thread. OR a guy could probably remove the tube from the compression nut and weld up the hole,or weld a short bolt into it then re-install it as a plug. I really intended this to be a quick-n-dirty job,but even used parts have been nearly impossible to find around here,and new/rebuilt parts are more expensive than I'd have liked,so I'll have to do it in stages.
Truck

Click to expand...

Hi all;Well,I'm almost done with my de-smog. Had to remove the computer,replace the distributor and Module,kluged a carb together with a mix of a Motorcraft 2 barrel from a '74 302 and my stock carb,installed aftermarket gauges,eliminated the Cat/Conv.,installed a 1 wire Delco 10si alternator and installed about a dozen ground cables from everywhere to everywhere else. As it stands now,it's reliable,has more power than before,and my mileage went from around 15 average to around 9. It idles when it feels like it,sometimes at 2500 rpm,sometimes not at all,it changes every time I stop. It occasionally fouls a plug etc.,but on a long climb it does a violent misfire unless I give it about 25% choke,indicating it's running lean. I'm running the stock 2.8 main jets and power valve. (The home made carb is truly a POS,but I have a guy building me a Holley 2 barrel,with a center pivot float bowl,manual choke and a hand throttle.) He's used these carbs off road his whole life and knows all the tricks. He tells me my mileage average should be double what I'm getting (to 18-20),and if I ever get that carb to screw up on a side hill,climb or descent it'll only be because the truck tumbled down the hill. (Well,I guess we'll see....) I should be getting the carb this weekend. Other than that,the operation was a success. One quick question-I've noticed that since I put this back on the road,I have no power to the ignition in the "Start" position. I've run a bypass and toggle switch to help it start,but could a bad solenoid cause that? Wouldn't be a big deal,but the bypass powers up the whole system-lights,radio,wipers ignition,and if I don't shut it off when it starts,the toggle switch gets pretty hot and leaving it on when I park it,it runs the battery down over night.
Speed