Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 33 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

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Progress pictures
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044.jpg


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042.jpg

038.jpg


Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

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BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

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Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
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And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
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2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

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Mark my words, I will make it down there at some point! You guys really cranked that out though, good to hear it is running well.

Benjam :D
 



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Well done to everyone there. It's great to hear that you had plenty of time to visit and enjoy the time.
 






Jon, wether you know it or not, we are repaying you for years of help and knowledge. And also being the person that you are. It killed me not being there to help, but it is what it is. Si was here the other day and you were brought up in conversation. I said to him " if you think he's a great guy on the forum, you have to meet him. He's even better in person". And that sir is also why I drove out of the way this summer to your place. And I am glad I did. Like I said to you, if you get a opportunity to meet someone (or in this case help someone) you want to, take it.
 






I do not buy from Autozone anymore because of the incompatent employees. I also do not trust their Duralast crap as far as I can throw it.

The only parts store that I found that stocks name brand parts now is Advance Auto. Everyone else just stocks their Chinese private label junk.
 






I do not buy from Autozone anymore because of the incompatent employees. I also do not trust their Duralast crap as far as I can throw it.

The only parts store that I found that stocks name brand parts now is Advance Auto. Everyone else just stocks their Chinese private label junk.

:thumbsup: I hear you on that. I just replaced my Oreily store brand TPS that crapped out on my truck and caused all sorts of issues (high idle, wouldn't downshift, etc.) I have another vehicle so I just ordered one off of Rock Auto and now it runs like new again. Unless it's an emergency I'll probably start ordering replacement parts off there for now on. BTW, sounded like a good time down there Jon. When I get back on my feet I may have see about finding another set of valve covers to be powder coated by you again. I just need to find ones that clear my Scorpion rockers first. these F-150 ones are beginning to leak oil onto my headers. But that's for another thread. I'm also glad to hear nothing bad happened too as well;)
 


















I have a question....

How on earth did you guys get the motor out without evacuating the air conditioning and removing that big black pipe that runs across the front of the motor?
 






I have a question....

How on earth did you guys get the motor out without evacuating the air conditioning and removing that big black pipe that runs across the front of the motor?

By removing the radiator, and getting the entire A/C assembly pulled to the condenser, then strapping it tight to the core support. As the engine is lifted out, we manipulate the A/C line by hand while turning the engine clockwise past the line until the crank pulley clears. :D
 












yup....I'd have loved to see it.
Also, I see you were able to pull the motor without dropping the front pumpkin. It was only because you were changing the motor mounts that the pumpkin came down.

So, tell me why the motor mounts needed changing? Does the rubber get that bad that there is too much flexing? I now its not overly difficult to drop the pumpkin, but it is more man hours.

Also, when the motor came out, did you try to shift the transmission backwards a little bit with the rear drive shaft off and trans mount loosened off?

The reason I'm asking these pointed questions is that I have a rear main leak, and some ported/rebuilt P heads with larger valves to install. I'm sure pulling the motor is the way to go. It wont happen till spring, but I'll ask my questions while its fresh in everyone's minds.

I'd have loved to be there for the pure education of the whole thing.
 






yup....I'd have loved to see it.
Also, I see you were able to pull the motor without dropping the front pumpkin. It was only because you were changing the motor mounts that the pumpkin came down.

So, tell me why the motor mounts needed changing? Does the rubber get that bad that there is too much flexing? I now its not overly difficult to drop the pumpkin, but it is more man hours.

Also, when the motor came out, did you try to shift the transmission backwards a little bit with the rear drive shaft off and trans mount loosened off?

The reason I'm asking these pointed questions is that I have a rear main leak, and some ported/rebuilt P heads with larger valves to install. I'm sure pulling the motor is the way to go. It wont happen till spring, but I'll ask my questions while its fresh in everyone's minds.

I'd have loved to be there for the pure education of the whole thing.

I know I got educated. If you ever get a chance to hang out with these guys you will learn a lot. ( the key is listening which I have trouble with)


I wanted to change the motor mounts "just because" we were there, and they had been there for a long time. The old mounts were a lot softer then the new ones. You do need to lift the engine quite a bit to get them out, so, now was a good time.

We dropped only one side of the front diff a time without removing the axles--just enough to get to the bottom mount nut.

The drive shaft and transmission stayed put, but the bell housing was raised just enough to keep in line with the engine lifted above the mount stud.
 






Also I will note

Merely removing the oil level sensor from the circuit works. No low oil level light with a sensor-less pan! I just left the plug hanging there by the pan.
 






Ah, thank you.

Your making this sound less and less scary.
 






Also I will note

Merely removing the oil level sensor from the circuit works. No low oil level light with a sensor-less pan! I just left the plug hanging there by the pan.

Good to hear that Jon, I wondered if it would matter to the message center.

Again though, did you consider installing an oil cooler, and the two shorter hoses for it? I'm sure you have come across those among parts hunting.
 






Good to hear that Jon, I wondered if it would matter to the message center.

Again though, did you consider installing an oil cooler, and the two shorter hoses for it? I'm sure you have come across those among parts hunting.


No oil warmer here Don. I'll let the intake manifold do that. As old as these are getting I do not want to risk the cross leak.
 






I see, I've saved two of them over the years. I plan to use them in my two projects, and maybe if they have no issues a third will be nice.

I am aiming to get my coolant temps way lower than OEM though, closer to 160* if possible. I think oil temps run well over 200 always, so the right coolant would help, and stock 200* coolant doesn't.
 






The Autozone story is all to familiar. A neighbor of mine manages the closest Autozone. He admits that their computer system is horrible. I only go in there for fluids, sprays etc... and that's just to make small talk with him.

I like NAPA, but from what I've heard they're going to transition to a similar system :(
 






I remember Auto Shack which became Autozone. I had bought one engine mount from them(left always cracks(Cleveland engine power)). The one in the box I got was the right side mount, and when I took it back I pulled the next one from the box, and it too was the wrong side.

Fortunately they carried the right side part ..., we pulled that one out, and yes, it was the left mount that I needed. That was back when they were open until midnight, back in about 1981.

You have to be smarter than the people and the machines they are operating.
 



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I quit going to Autozone about 20 years ago when they told me they didn't list a starter for a '78 F100 with a 400. Seriously? How many thousands, if not millions of F100s did Ford build with a 351M/400??
 






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