Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

Stic-o said:

I'm curious to see what you do here. I just ordered new suspension seats and plan to get these in and a redo of my center console area done before t-haven. I have to move the cb and switchs down to this same area to put the touch screen Pioneer out of the wife old explorer in.

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I have had the center console in ever since the 700R4 swap. I could redo it so it goes all the way up under the dash, but think I would actually lose room for stuff.
Old pics

Thanks, Rick that is a great deal. A lot less than what I was looking at. One of their stores is only ten miles from my house. Need to go check it out.

http://www.hamradio.com/locations.cfm?storeid=4

Why do you carpet on your garage floor?

I have carpet in mine. I lay on the ground and stare up at my truck any wonder why.

It was there when I bought the house, and the only remaining piece is under the Explorer. Its comfortable, soaks up everything, and is too ugly to worry about keeping clean. Perfect.

What bump stops are you using in the rear. Thank you sir.

I don't know the brand name, maybe Synergy, but there a bunch of pictures of them starting post 874, page 52 of this thread. I have had them for at least ten years with no wear.

Edit, Energy Suspension, like these only red

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENERGY-SUSP...F-2-/121126317820?hash=item1c33b0eefc&vxp=mtr

Your the man, thank you very much.

Yesterday, I purchased some supplies for adding a dash air pressure gauge. Total cost was less than $15 (I already had the gauge). The only item I forgot was a 1/8" NPT plug for use if gauge/hose/fittings fail on the trail.


I found this pressure hose at my favorite hardware store. Some random person was purchasing several feet of the stuff so I asked him if would work for air pressure. He said it would work great as that is what he uses it for. Picked up 30 feet at 16 cents per foot.


Ran the hose from the compressor tank, into the passenger compartment via a new hole in the sheet metal surrounding the fuel tank inlet/vent hoses. Then, over the inner fender to the driver side electrical channel, to the firewall, up and over steering wheel and to the center of the dash. Should get it all hooked up and tested tomorrow. Am moving some under the dash mounted stuff around to make the gauge more visible, and improve the overall look of all that stuff (aligning the CB with the center console for a cleaner look). It will also reserve that space for a bracket to hold both the CB and a future purchase of a Ham radio.

Only problem I had was I drilled a hole in the wrong place and had to fill it with a plug and a bunch of gasket sealant. Am using a very large diameter grommet that is very thick with only a 1/4" hole to keep wear down to a minimum. There is only about 4' of the air hose that is under the Explorer, and that is above the compressor tank and skid plate, and wrapped in split loom.

Got it all installed today. I have had the tank at 115 PSI with no air loss for about two hours. I will see how much air is left in the tank in the morning.


I think that air hose is about all the room I had left on the driver side wiring channel. You can see the air hose tucked under the black bracket. Its between the bracket and the outside edge of the body.


Finished product from the driver's seat.

There is a little less than three inches between the top of the center console and the bottom of the CB radio. Should be plenty of space to mount a ham radio when the time comes.

Quick question, did you ever take the shims out of the rear leafs. If so do they make any noise. Thank you.

DUDER 1 said:

Quick question, did you ever take the shims out of the rear leafs. If so do they make any noise. Thank you.

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When I made up the frankenleaf set up, I left the shims out to adjust the ride height lower (1/2"). No squeaks, but the springs were coated with EZ Glide before I put them together.

Ok perfect, my current setup is a real saggy and broke set of stock leafs on top of a two inch block. From what you say about the height being three inches over should put the ex just about where it should be. Thanks again for the info.

DUDER 1 said:

Ok perfect, my current setup is a real saggy and broke set of stock leafs on top of a two inch block. From what you say about the height being three inches over should put the ex just about where it should be. Thanks again for the info.

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No problem. That's what the forum is all about; the exchange of ideas and information.

Upgraded the interior dome and map lights to LED. Rear cargo dome has an interesting bulb. I removed the blade type plug off of a LED bulb and soldered the wires to the fixture tabs. Used warm white bulbs because I prefer the incandescent look. Got the idea for this when I upgraded all of the RV interior lamps to LED. All bulbs were ebay purchases. Only had four 1076 bulbs that would not work (blew fuses and refused to emit light) out of the 30 bulbs I needed. Got a prompt payment return.

I swapped over to LED dome lights, but they only light up when the door is ajar and not when the switches are pressed manually. I thought it was a fuse but couldn't find any that were blown. Wondering if you have any ideas?

Explorin'VA said:

I swapped over to LED dome lights, but they only light up when the door is ajar and not when the switches are pressed manually. I thought it was a fuse but couldn't find any that were blown. Wondering if you have any ideas?

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Mine work fine, so I got nothing...

The Explorer got out of the garage on its monthly drive. AC is not working correctly. I think the compressor is failing, again. When AC on, engine labors and belt squeals. Not sure if I am going to fix again as this would be the third compressor. About five years ago I replaced the compressor, the main solid AC line, and the condenser. Might do a AC delete this time as I rarely use it.

One of the few things I still love about San Diego.

BKennedy said:

The Explorer got out of the garage on its monthly drive. AC is not working correctly. I think the compressor is failing, again. When AC on, engine labors and belt squeals. Not sure if I am going to fix again as this would be the third compressor. About five years ago I replaced the compressor, the main solid AC line, and the condenser. Might do a AC delete this time as I rarely use it.

One of the few things I still love about San Diego.


View attachment 86087

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Curious of the horsepower gain for AC delete. Could be worth it.

Last time I got into AC repair with the Explorer, it cost me $1500. I had a AC line on the daughter's 2010 Range fail and it was $200, labor included.

I was looking at a delete pulley for $45, but the wife (and I'll admit it, me too) really likes the fact that the Explorer is still an XLT with leather seats, and roll up windows, AC, etc.. It would be nice on some of those road trips to have working AC. Might have to fix it one more time. Heck, if it didn't have 5:13 gears it would be a highway cruiser it rides so nice after the SAS.