The Black Hole

CDW6212R · June 28, 2015

Go for it, and spread what you learn. I've had a dead paint job on my 91 Lincoln for ages, and I thought of the vinyl wrap materials. I found out also that there are liquid "vinyl" materials that can be painted on easily, and will peel off, but only from a good painted surface. That kind of "paint" will be permanent on a very porous surface like my dead paint(no clear(base coat)).

To get more ideas and see what else is out there, look at the ALSA website. They sell tons of things that would be great to have or do. But you do need to catch them on sale, which they constantly run for various products. I just bought some dark gray paint/wrap that will do well on my wheels. I got it because my cheap 18's have bad clear coat and they're not worth selling or other methods to refinish them.

They(ALSA) have paintable "wrap" that is supposed to be nearly impossible to scratch(key), which might be slick to use for off roading. It's a dull or satin finish, but very tough. Most of what they have can be sprayed or rolled, brushed on, and many come in cans. I have only bought their candy concentrate paint, and some clear, to do my two red vehicles, plus this last thing to do my wheels.

gmanpaint · June 28, 2015

Well, I already have the rattle cans of the black dip. I was going to buy Eastwoods elastiwrap by the quart, but I don't want to run that product in my gun. I have been on the lookout for a cheap Joe homeowner Wagner HVLP on CL to use for it, but one never came up that I seen. So rattle cans it is.

Weathermen can't predict worth a crap here. They called for a rain free 80* weekend on Fri. It rained yesterday afternoon, and Severe storms with Hail today. Humidity is too great for the dip to be applied.

Plastidip and Eastwood both sell a clearcoat product to go over the dip. It hardens and can be waxed/buffed. I tested the plastidip I already applied to see how it hold up to abuse. I have to say, I'm pretty surprised at how well it resists marring, scratches, and the like. I threw hand packed mud balls at it HARD, rinsed it off with the garden hose, left no trace of damages. I used my car wash brush on it, nothing.

Don, If I do anymore, I will check into it, but the hood and the roof in front of the moonroof is all I am doing for now.

CDW6212R · June 28, 2015

I know how that is, use what you have and don't look around too hard, you'll find something.

My 99 has the old 93 body(roof), so the sunroof is the poor glass pop up thing. I will eventually decide whether to fill the hole with a roof piece, or get a surrounding piece from a 97-01(I still have the old 99 assembly). I like a sunroof, but when they leak water, oh hell, was it worth it?

gmanpaint · June 28, 2015

So I was able to do a couple things today before the storms rolled in. I couldn't get to the hood because of the high humidity. Temps are perfect tho. Ugh...

So I started replacing the Halogen lights on the rig with LED pods a while back. The prices have come way way down since they were introduced, and the competition is fierce, making them affordable (for me) now. The roof rack has 4 18w Cree LED pods, and I love the output and low draw from them. So Eventually all of the lights will be replaced except the 80w PIAA amber fogs. Those thing rock, and are placed perfectly.

I installed this 24" Cree led bar in the front, attached to the tube bumper. It is tucked back in and protected by the stinger. The only bummer part about the mounting was this bumper has tabs for lights in Front of the tube, not behind. Never made sense to me, why someone made it like that. I had to make new tabs, but only bolted them. Works fine.

1st pic is the profile showing it is tucked back to the grill
2nd pic is the frontal full Monty.
3rd pic is a closeup I thought looked cool.

gmanpaint · June 28, 2015

Next project of the day was to remove the lip mounted fender flares and replace then with flush mounted flares. I had bought a 25' roll of this stuff for Pugly, and a roll is enough to do 6 explorer fenders. So since I had enough for 2 more, this rig got them installed. I like these more for the fronts, as they can be mounted higher, and not drop down past the lip of the fenders, taking away clearance. These ended up a whopping 4" higher in the center then the old ones, and I could run the full length down front to back. No more crap slung at the windows now.

I think those new beefy 35's look good in that opening now. Much better to me.

gmanpaint · July 4, 2015

Changed the gray hood color to black today. The humidity came back as I sprayed the Plastidip. It dried a bit funky leaving some stripes.

The stripes are actually gloss changes. The heavier it is applied, the more gloss it has.

Being that I went ahead and just used the rattle cans, an aftermarket spray tip (wider fan & more material ejected), and a spray full hand spray handle attachment, the material went heavier at the lower section of the pattern, and the overlap pass just added more to that area as I went. I couldn't reach across far enough to have the can perfectly level, so it had an angle as I sprayed. Best to remove the hood, and do it on a table/horses. I had nobody to help R&R the hood, so I masked it all off, and left it on the rig.

I tried something. I sprayed a pc of scrap, let it dry, then sprayed the glossifier Plastidip over it. The color was there (like a basecoat flat), so the glossifier coat made the gloss stripes go away.

So, after this cures for some time, I will mask it again and spray the glossifier over it. Hopefully that helps some, if not, it's easy enough to peel it all off.

Tips:
When edges are taped, apply a light first coat close to the tape, then a heavier coat over spraying the tape line, on the last spray.

Peel tape while the last coat is still wet for a clean line/edge. Otherwise it will lift/peel, and you lose the clean line for a jagged lifted line.

Keep a rag in one hand and wipe the tip, top of can below the tip often, to avoid build up drips. Material will collect, and when enough builds up, the spray fan will throw globs of materials at the surface. Little bubbles will flatten out as it drys, but drips won't.

Replace spray can when about 2/3 empty. It will sputter, spit, and leave chatter lines as it gets to about 1/3 left. It don't matter how much you shake it between passes, it still happens.

What would I do different next time?
Buy materials in qt/gal cans. They sell it in ready to spray, or mix in thinner yourself. Then use an HVLP sprayer when all possible, like a Wagner home sprayer type. Cans are good for small projects like wheels, but trust me, cans are not good for broad areas like a hood. LOL!!!

I scuffed it all up, attempted to work out the bad drip globs as best I can, and wiped it clean with rubbing alcohol right before I sprayed.

Since I already had the gray color on there ( I didn't peel it off) I decided to use it for a stripe all the way around the center. Bit of tricky masking, but hey, it worked out.

Maniak · July 5, 2015

I dipped my honda just over a year ago. I used Metalizer on my top clear coats (2 coats I think) and until people notice there is no reflection they think it's glossy paint.

I bought all my sprayable dip from DYC.com . They aren't the cheapest but they were good to talk to and easy to get the right stuff.

I also learned (too late) about pulling the tape right after spraying the last coat. I waited until it was dry and now have some edge/pulling issues on the A pilar after a year or so. I'm surprised that it's actually even stayed on for as long as it has since I routinely drive at 80 mph+.

I also had issues with it being the wrong temp/humidity when I sprayed the car. In my case it was 100f with low humidity and I didn't know about thinning the dip so things were drying too fast.

~Mark

gmanpaint · July 5, 2015

Yep, dry time and weather factors matters with this stuff, but it's almost impossible to get it right doing it outside. I have been waiting for a few months to do it, and finally got a dry weekend.

I looked at the diff types of clears out there, and I like the Eastwood Elastiwraps. They have all diff sheens and additives to choose from. Pearls, candy flakes, metallic, etc.. Qts are like $30/ea for colors and glosses, and tubes of additives are cheaper.

I got the aftermarket spray tips from DYC.com. Think they were like $2/ea. I learned the first time I used them that the fan was too big for the height of the stem. It's the reason it builds up and shoots globs. If it was 1/2" taller, it probably wouldn't do that. So constant wiping is needed. Same goes for the stock tip, it globs as well.

I might try the Eastwood Pearlizer for the final coats. :dunno:

CDW6212R · July 5, 2015

Great work, it looks well done. I like that many places sell these kinds of products, and that you have choices for top coats etc. I like a gloss surface for sure just to make it easier to clean and maintain, clear sounds like the right idea.

I received the paint/wrap the other day that I wanted for my wheels. My 18's look bad and a simple painting will help a lot. I might not spend the time to clear them though, since these will be stuck with this truck, and I'll be selling it eventually. I got my "new" 17's fully cleaned up and test fitted one to the truck. They will work I'm sure now, so whenever I do find a rust free 98-01 Mercury again, they'll go on it.

I hope everyone had a great fourth. Now remember to go out today and walk your yards, to find the fireworks debris that's always out there. Its also a good time to walk the roof and clean the gutters.

gmanpaint · July 5, 2015

Don, When you spray those wheels, apply it real thick on the lip and tire. It will peel off the tire easier and leave a cleaner edge on the wheel. 4 or 5 coats should do it.

Funny you mention cleaning the roof. That is on my list for today. My neighborhood looked like war scene from a movie the last couple of nights. Lol

CDW6212R · July 5, 2015

I'll try brushing this ALSA stuff on the first time, it's supposed to lay one well that way too. These will be a first test to learn with, similar products are good for doing the front end for taking trips etc. My real intention was to use for protecting a nice new paint job for a show trip, and peeling it off there and reapplying for the trip back. The wheels project is simple and useful for any wheels not so nice any more.

It's typical to find stuff when mowing after the 4th and New Years. Nobody likes to mow any of that, and my gutters run over now(it's rained all week here).

gmanpaint · July 13, 2015

Took the rig on a "Bring your toy to work day".

All was well, and the ice cold A/C was awesome in this miserable heat. Engine temp stayed nice and cool, engine ran great, no issues with clutch, and all seemed fine.

Got about a block from home, and pushed the clutch in to coast down a small hill, and the engine died. ??HUH?? I just popped the clutch to fire it back up, and pulled in the driveway. That was a total :scratch: moment.

So a little time went by, and I went to get the mail, when I noticed a fresh wet spot under the drivers side LCA/ cross member area.

Got under and had a look see. I found what appeared to be power steering fluid coating every lower suspension component, C/V axle, & cross member. Ok....what gives?

Looked in the steering pump resi, and it was low, but not a lot. Barely touched the bottom of the dip stick. Ok....Hmm...

Grabbed the pressure lines connected at the rack. The two on the left, are nice and tight. The two on the right, I was able to wiggle a little bit. Hmm....

I tried to get a line wrench on the line nuts, but no go. Can't get them on, because of how tight everything is. I do not own a set of crows feet wrenches. :banghead:

I need to go get a set.

Now here is my question I have been leading up too....

I know the line on the back of the power steering pump stays a little loose. Does the two lines on the right at the rack stay a little loose as well? :scratch:

If they do, I might not have found the cause of the leak yet. The rack was replaced at a shop back in 2008 or 09, but not that many miles have been put on this rig since then. Maybe 10K miles, if that. I hate to think the rack itself is going south.

CDW6212R · July 13, 2015

Those joints do swivel, they have Teflon 0-rings in there. Over many years the movement can develop a leak.

With AC connections there are "locks" which you can install over the joints to hold them rigid(so the seals(green o-rings) last longer).

I'd do plenty of cleaning first, and see about tracking down the leak before replacing anything.

gmanpaint · July 13, 2015

Agreed. I did some searching and found out that they do indeed stay a little loose at the rack. I will clean it the best I can, and try to find someone to turn the steering wheel back & forth while I look for the source. I thought there was a check ball inside the line. I didn't realize it has O rings.

I have a gut feeling that the replacement rack is bad. 1) What ever is the hardest/most expensive is what happens it seems. 2) The bigger tires, and the wheeling takes it's toll on these racks not meant for the abuse I put it through.

The other thing that I thought about is, what if the Dana axle seal I installed on the diff gave out? It's hard to tell what fluid it actually is because of all the dirt mixed in it. The C/V end at the diff is soaked, along with everything around it. It could be "Slinging" gear fluid. I use full synthetics in my diffs, so it doesn't stink like traditional Dino gear oil.

CDW6212R · July 14, 2015

If it isn't a real slow leak, you will figure out what is quickly. I hope these racks are solid and don't become like Fox Mustangs.

Those are typically a big loose or prone to leaking when you get them as a rebuilt. Fox owners didn't take care of their PS systems well, and it's ruined most of the racks available.

albi1cnobi1 · July 14, 2015

gmanpaint said:
Agreed. I did some searching and found out that they do indeed stay a little loose at the rack. I will clean it the best I can, and try to find someone to turn the steering wheel back & forth while I look for the source. I thought there was a check ball inside the line. I didn't realize it has O rings.

I have a gut feeling that the replacement rack is bad. 1) What ever is the hardest/most expensive is what happens it seems. 2) The bigger tires, and the wheeling takes it's toll on these racks not meant for the abuse I put it through.

Hey guys. I was reading of your tribulations with your steering rack and it brought to mind some problems that I had. My original rack was leaking, so I went to NAPA and got a new(read reman) unit. Taking a step back, there is a check valve in the rack I believe in the input side. But at the time is was unaware that the reman units don't come with that check valve and you're supposed to remove it from the old rack and install it in the new one. So the new rack was installed without the check valve, and eventually(roughly 2-3 years later) it started leaking around the steering shaft seal. So I called NAPA and they told me that the rack had a lifetime warranty and to bring it in and they would replace it. If you've ever replaced one of these you know that's no easy task. A good 4 hours later and many words that can't be repeated here I showed up with my old/new rack to exchange it for a new/new rack. And in the box is a little piece of paper that says "Be sure to remove the input check valve from your old rack before returning the core." Well when I looked in the rack this is when I discovered that it wasn't there because I didn't take it out of the original rack. It turns out that the check valve somehow keeps the fluid from forcing pressure against the shaft seal in the wrong direction. I had to order one from Ford before I could even install the new rack. I thought I saw that you said a shop installed the rack, but Just some food for thought. Like Don said sometimes reman units aren't that great to begin with so I guess it could just be like you said and be abuse from off roading and larger tires. Thought I would share my experience for reference.

gmanpaint · July 14, 2015

albi1cnobi1 said:
Hey guys. I was reading of your tribulations with your steering rack and it brought to mind some problems that I had. My original rack was leaking, so I went to NAPA and got a new(read reman) unit. Taking a step back, there is a check valve in the rack I believe in the input side. But at the time is was unaware that the reman units don't come with that check valve and you're supposed to remove it from the old rack and install it in the new one. So the new rack was installed without the check valve, and eventually(roughly 2-3 years later) it started leaking around the steering shaft seal. So I called NAPA and they told me that the rack had a lifetime warranty and to bring it in and they would replace it. If you've ever replaced one of these you know that's no easy task. A good 4 hours later and many words that can't be repeated here I showed up with my old/new rack to exchange it for a new/new rack. And in the box is a little piece of paper that says "Be sure to remove the input check valve from your old rack before returning the core." Well when I looked in the rack this is when I discovered that it wasn't there because I didn't take it out of the original rack. It turns out that the check valve somehow keeps the fluid from forcing pressure against the shaft seal in the wrong direction. I had to order one from Ford before I could even install the new rack. I thought I saw that you said a shop installed the rack, but Just some food for thought. Like Don said sometimes reman units aren't that great to begin with so I guess it could just be like you said and be abuse from off roading and larger tires. Thought I would share my experience for reference.

Wow, thanks for that post! That helps a bunch! :salute:

Since I had it replaced at a shop, I have no idea if they installed that check valve piece or not. I guess, if it is the rack leaking, I will find out if they did or not, when I remove it.

I am NOT looking forward to doing this repair in the least bit. I would rather pull a trans! LOL!

I bought the rack at O'Riely's myself and brought it to the shop for them to replace. I was originally going to do it myself, but didn't have the time. I will have to call them to see if I have a lifetime on it or not. Be sweet if I do!

albi1cnobi1 · July 14, 2015

Yeah, I wasn't looking forward to it either. I just remembered fighting with it and cussing it for what seemed like days. lol! The second time I was fussing and fighting with it and I remembered seeing something on youtube so I took a break and found a video from some repair shop that showed the secret to easily removing the rack. You pull the outer tie rod ends off and turn it a certain way and it slips out. I couldn't believe how easy it came out after that and how easy it went back in. I'll see if I can find that video and post a link. It really helped a lot.

gmanpaint · July 14, 2015

Thanks. I found some posts about how you flip it upside down, and out the front to remove. This rig has a 75 lb 3/8" HD skidplate that has to be removed, and it is a bear to deal with. Ack...

I'm waiting on some custom front armor to be made, and might wait until then to install this rack. I have to remove the LCA's & coil overs for that job, so this might be a better time to deal with this job.

CDW6212R · July 14, 2015

albi1cnobi1 said:
Yeah, I wasn't looking forward to it either. I just remembered fighting with it and cussing it for what seemed like days. lol! The second time I was fussing and fighting with it and I remembered seeing something on youtube so I took a break and found a video from some repair shop that showed the secret to easily removing the rack. You pull the outer tie rod ends off and turn it a certain way and it slips out. I couldn't believe how easy it came out after that and how easy it went back in. I'll see if I can find that video and post a link. It really helped a lot.

Thanks Al, I appreciate the tips. I haven't had to remove one of these yet, and I've been lucky with 205k miles and my driving. Off roading is no doubt rough on parts.

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