Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread | Page 38 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread

The new turd mobile. 2000 Mountaineer v8 awd.



The bad:

Was living it's prior life on a dusty road. Must tear out interior and deep clean.
Driver window off track "or something" and will not roll down. It tries but the rear part wants to stay up.

3 out of 4 door handles have issues. I have 4 new outer handles on order.
Cracked passenger side tail light housing. ( Ebay for some cool tail lights)

Compass-Thermometer thingy lit up and went out--idunno bout that yet

Door locks seem sticky, probably has to do with the handles.
It has a funky purple color trim with red metallic ( you'll have that every now and then) :(

The good
Gas tank was full
109k miles
I am the 2nd owner!!
Is from the local area, which means no salt!
The undercarriage is fairly clean
No dents to underside panels
Good rubber
Camber shims already installed
Looks like good service records, all recalls were completed.
Clean carfax believe it or not.

The "maybe" bad

The original owner, told the dealership it had a bad "heater core" however I have run it for several cycles, over an hour each idling in the driveay and see no leaks.
However, there was evidence of a windshield leak or the like,I saw condensation on the inside of the windows this AM. The moisture smell is that of water only-no anti freeze smell. I am thinking it could also be a cowl drain which is clogged???? but she did say the passenger carpet got wet.

I tried to get heat, however it is an auto climate control. Being 90 degrees outside, I doubt it would have given me heat.The heater core hoses were hot, and the coolant bypass valve does operate. AC blows Ice cold.

Maybe she meant to say "heater door"???

Anyway--here are the pics.



My intent is to drive this and use it as a tow rig for a light weight off road toy. Mods will be minimal. Edit: This plan did not work out so on to plan "b"

Current visual status

001-8_zps25438bd5.jpg


Progress pictures
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028.jpg


031.jpg


032.jpg


044.jpg


043.jpg


042.jpg

038.jpg


Now, let's clean it up a little


Herculine'rd rocker panels. Rock sliders installed

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BW 4406 True 4x4 Manual transfer case ( AKA Mouse entry point) installed 8-27-2012
Installed newer Tcase from a 2003 11-14-15

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Saw a rainbow in Colorado so yeah, time for a picture
119.jpg

And here she is, on top of the highest pass road in North America. Careful tire placement a must!!!
041-1.jpg


2-2-2013

Changed "color scheme" of the Dick Cepek DC1 wheels. New Falken Wildpeak AT 31x1050x15

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Then I decided Maroon washer on the wheels would look better

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Update 6-6-2013

New bumpers, winch and Pro LED light . Front Bumper from RLC, Skid plate from RCI, rear bumper from Kert307


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Rear anti sway disconnects

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Update 9-2-2014
A cracked radiator at 70mph led to engine failure. Replaced with a freshened up a bit 80k mile engine starting on page 23

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Found another rainbow in Kansas.

008_zpsarhv1lwt.jpg
 



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I asked in the hopes that someone reads this and might have one, you get a lot of traffic here.

I think they tune in to read what you have to say. ;)
 



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i might have one

Really, how's it look?

I have the 98 parts which I had coated(carbon fiber) by Phoenix Imagining almost ten years ago, and things changed. I want to change to the early cup holder version, and I have a 4WD bezel to get coated too. I have only installed the AWD bezel, it has one tiny scratch I think.

Has anyone heard of a place that can do the CF coating like PI did long ago? I think matching the other will be tough.
 






I think I am on to something

While checking out a Mountaineer I recently sold with myscangauge, I noticed it's coolant temp was as expected, from 192-196 in all conditions.


However Betty's temp runs at around 171, until a load is put on it, like 70 mph with ac, or towing a trailer. the temp will go over 200.

I now truly believe a genuine Ford thermostat might be the answer. After several different thermostats, I still see the same thing

Even the old engine did this.

"new" engine also has new ECT sensor, new radiator, new water pump, and new hoses. Everything has been gone though and cleaned out.

I suspect the "universal" 195 degree thermostats are faster to open and later to close. After 5 different brands I am going to bite it and pay 25.00 for one direct from Ford. A tech there told me he has seen this. These days "cheaper" thermostats are rated for when they open fully, not the rate at which they do so. So, I will let you guys know what happens once I get it installed.


Unless the scan gauge uses feedback from the temp gauge sender, I have not other explanation for this. It is the only part I haven't replaced, however I must add the gauge in the cluster coincides with what the scan-gauge says.
 






Please keep us up to date on this one. Very interesting.
 






Ditto, and consider the 180 rated unit, from Ford if they make one. I've heard of rarely there being such a thing, and cooler is better. That is great testing you've done there, it's hard to analyze details like that by basic parts swapping without the Scangauge etc. I prefer the FailSafe units, but only if they do work properly. If I found out they didn't, I'd ditch them fast.
 






I have a scan gauge and it runs off the coolant temp sensor, not off the gauge.
 






Years ago I had a 180* (?) thermostat in the built 460 (actually 472") in my '74 Ranchero. It ran warmer than I cared for, so I put a 160 in it. It actually ran hotter with the 160* stat. My theory is the thermostat was open most of the time and the coolant was circulating too fast to cool as it went through the radiator.

On the other hand, the thermostat in my '78 F-100 malfunctioned on the road and caused the engine to overheat. I took the thermostat out to get us going, after spending the night at a weigh station along I-35, and ended up running without one all summer. I put one back in in October or so when I realized I would soon need the defroster and heater.

Of course those engines were designed to run cooler than later engines are.
 






OK. I am not sure what happened but I know for a fact the new thermostat I ordered for the recent motor swap was a 195 degree. I know I verified that is what came in the box. However, this is what I just took out of my engine.

:scratch::scratch::dunno::dunno::shifty_ey:shifty_ey

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I know for a fact I would not have bought that. Something is fishy here


Anyway, I am glad I went in, because I had a tad of trouble pulling off the elbow hose. Found this. The tube was corroded inside the thermostat housing. When I grabbed the hose with pliers the tube slid right out.
Hmmmm. I didn't notice that when I powdercoated it.

012_zpse9686bca.jpg


I am real glad I had another housing hoarded.

Genuine Ford 192 degree 'stat installed and she warms up fine now. Just have to burp it and button it all up.
 






My 2 cents. I really agree with using the Ford t-stat for our Explorers, because of the weird 192F setting.
However, I installed in mine 180F, because I have a low oil pressure and a tad lower temperature helps with viscosity.
I find out that Stant has two options - Superstat Thermostat and Economy Thermostat.
First try was the "Economy" because that's what my local store had. Garbage, won't hold the temperature as it should.
I ordered a "Superstat" and it acts up exactly like the OE one
 






Well, yippy!

F150 shaft fits! It will compress about 1/2" further than I need it to to get the front u joint in the front diff yoke.

So, I made marks, took out the u joints and stuck the parts in my parts washer. I'm going to powdercoat the parts then install the joints, using a conversion joint on the front.

So if I wanted to convert back to 4x4 (after it goes 2wd from a v8 swap from a 2wd donor). I could find a 4406 and a front DS from a 5.4 f-150 and it should work? I noticed all the talk about the angles which leaves me kinda confused
 







ya know, i have broken a lot of strange things on vehicles in my life, and seen a lot of strange broken things as well, but i must say this tops em! i have seen or heard of that until now.
 






Just updating this thread with no issues to report. everything underneath is dry, oil looks clean. The Engine swap went so well the factory couldn't have done better. Thanks again! I already miss you guys.
 






Just updating this thread with no issues to report. everything underneath is dry, oil looks clean. The Engine swap went so well the factory couldn't have done better. Thanks again! I already miss you guys.

Sounds like something needs to go wrong so you can start updating this thread more often... ;)
 






Seeing as how it sits more than is driven:D it shouldn't leak :biggthump
 












Everyone's car sits more than it is driven. Mine gets driven daily. Geez.

Daily egg roll & 32oz Coke :D Sorry, in one of my comedic smart ass moods & can't help myself.
 






Daily egg roll & 32oz Coke :D Sorry, in one of my comedic smart ass moods & can't help myself.

for your information I drink tea now. And when I can get an egg roll for 1.39 I'm gonna do it. :D
 






for your information I drink tea now. And when I can get an egg roll for 1.39 I'm gonna do it. :D

I'm craving some chicken fingers & mushrooms :D
 



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