1996 Explorer Power Window Fix

Thanks to all the great advise on this site, I’m able to make my first post a “How I fixed this problem” one, so I wanted to share.

My problem was that the power windows on my 96 Explorer XLT 4dr, 2WD,V6, had quit working all together. They had been working off and on for about 3 months, but last week they completely quit. The culprit turned out to be the Power Accessory Relay. See pg 391 in the 96 Explorer Owners Manual Instrument Panel Relay Module #4. It’s the big relay labeled “Accy. Delay System Power Windows. This is the one mounted under the dash beside the steering column. I think this is the one that is often called the “Power Window Relay”. I got one at Advance Auto for $7.18 + tax (Part # R3177). Swapped the relays out and problem solved. All 4 windows are working again. By the way, I’m a pretty big guy (6’-4, 290#) and it only took me about 5 min. to swap the relays, it was really not hard to get to. My first thought had been that the master switch on the drivers side had gone bad. So I ran by the local Ford dealer and picked up a new one. $54.43 + tax. When I called to see if they had one, I think they told me it would be $64 and change, but I have found that they will usually knock a little bit off the price if you ask at the counter. Swapped the master switches out and nothing. I then determined that power was not getting to the master switch. So based on the information I had read on this very site, I turned my attention to the relay.

Again, thanks to everyone who has posted their comments on this site.

If i can hear the relay clicking when i press the drivers window control, does that mean it still works?

Are you sure the clicking is from the relay(under the dash) and not the switch(in the armrest). Also, check for power in the wire (light blue/black) coming into the switch. It comes directly from the relay. If that wire is not hot (mine was not), chances are it's a bad relay.
If the clicking is coming from the switch, then that wire is probably hot and your problem is between the switch and the motor.

The clicking is definitely from the relay. I had my head stuck under the dash and could feel it clicking also.

I also switched relays and it still made that clicking sound.

I'd say your problem is between the switch and the motor.

Having the same problem

johndhogan said:

The clicking is definitely from the relay. I had my head stuck under the dash and could feel it clicking also.

I also switched relays and it still made that clicking sound.

Click to expand...

I'm having the same problem, Drivers side window want roll up on a 95 2 door explorer.
I can hear the clicking under my dash when I hit the switch.

I took the switch out and put it in place of my pasanger window switch and it still works.
Is there a relay or fuse that only pertains to the Drivers side power window, as my pasanger side still works?
Or is the next step to replace the Power window motor?

Hi all I had a problem with all my windows not working when the engine was running. They would work with just the ignition on but quit as soon as the engine started up. Also my interior lites , Back window wiper and fog lites were also affected. I went thru the steps outlined here on the forums and switched out the accy delay relay , the battery saver relay and the alarm delay relays. Problem persisted. I read about checking the volatages on the gem but since I found a 96 xlt with the same features as mine in the junk yard I switched it out. Ureka! everything works again, thankyou you all for sharing your knowledge.

I forgot to mention that when the windows stopped working was after the car was parked in a wooded area and there were severe thunder storms that night. I read in here about someone else having a power window problem after being near severe lighting.

Here's a good one

My driver's side window opens and closes about an inch and a half. Has been working fine. It seems to work well now accept for the limited range of motion. Motor works both up and down, but not very far!

Power windows are possessed!

I just purchased a 4 dr 4x4 95 XLT. Both drivers side would not work, the passengers did. The moon roof did when I first tried it.
Now when I got it home and started it again, NO windows, and the moonroof did not work! Today I took it in for shocks and had a sway bar kit installed and the passengers side worked on route! After I picked it up, nothing worked again.
Is their such a thing as a possessed ford? I have a lot of work and $ to spend just to get this XLT to pass inspections, and although the windows wont stop it from passing, I need them to!
Anybody got a clue, I know I don't!

Just a heads up to all: This is a great forum but if you post your problem inside the post of someone else's problem, chances are not a lot of people will see it. Also be specific with your post. One problem at a time. So start a new post with the problem you want fixed first and you'll be thrilled with the outcome.

Howdy, where exactly is the "Instrument Panel Relay Module #4" with "Accy. Delay System Power Windows"?

In my 1995 Explorer manual it shows the relay module #4 on page 457 with an arrow pointing to the driver windshield wiper. I'm pretty sure it isn't embedded in the wiper

I assume it's under the dash, do I just look up under the dash behind the speedometer to locate the module?

Thanks, Mike

Yes it is. It will be above and to the inside (right) of your gas pedal. Look to the side of your radio, a rectangle black molded plastic box w/cover. The manual shows exactly which one #4 is. It might not say "accy" on it if it was replaced already with after market part. They run about $8.00 at O'reily auto parts.
Hint: push the connecter instead of pulling it to get the cover off! Use a hanging light so both hands are free to work up there!

Dang, I had already replaced that relay and the battery relay and the one next to it

When I turn the key to the position just before start, I can hear and feel (finger on the relay) both the battery saver relay and the accessory relay click.

If I put a volt meter on the power lead coming from the accessory relay at the driver console and the negative on one of the switch contacts, I don't get any voltage (with the key turned to accessory). If I put the volt meter on continuity and place the leads on the same contacts, I get continuity only when I press the window button, as I'd expect.

Shouldn't there be a voltage reading between those two points? I tried the same on all the window switch contacts on the master console, none show voltage. My issue is the same as the original posters, none of the window switches do anything. I'm pretty sure that all of the windows stopped functioning when I drove down a bumpy road, so I'd suspect a ground or loose connection.

All of the points on the switches have continuity to ground on the bare metal of the door, and to the negative terminal of the battery. I'm at a miss what to check next.

From reading this thread, it looks like I should check the voltage at the motor connector:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=221735

I'll try that and post back.

Did all your windows stop at the same time? If so, It is more than a motor problem. From what was explained to me, the two wires from each switch are grounds, until the switch is activated, sending current to them.
Did you replace ,or check the fuse in the power distribution box under the hood?
Which relays under the dash did you replace? There are two for the windows, one for the one touch down feature, and the big one (accy.delay system) for all the windows.
if all these check out, the only thing I know is to check inside the boot in the drivers door jamb, for obvious wear and tear, look at a wiring diagram, and break out your meter.

Yes, all the windows stopped at the same time. I checked the fuse in the PD box under the hood and it is still good. I replaced both the big relay and the one touch (in addition to the other one next to them, battery saver or something like that).

The power locks work, I'm not sure if they share anything in common with the wiring to the windows.

I have a copy of one of the after market manuals (can't remember the brand) and have been working my way through the diagrams with my voltmeter, however I have to admit I took my electric circuits class and lab 15 years ago and haven't done a whole lot with wiring diagrams since, so it's taking some time to re-educate myself

I'll take a look at the boot to see if any wires look worn.

By the way, I read in another post about being careful with your fingers in side the door frame (likes to eat fingers, or something). Is that a warning about the sheet metal being sharp, or is there actually something in there that's spring loaded / actuated that likes to chomp fingers?

The locks are running off the same fuse in the power dist box under the hood. I understand that it is spring loaded (regulator) and if you remove the wrong bolts or something to that effect it could slice and dice with your hands inside the door when it does, I guess it would be like cutting carrots with a knife! I am taking my window motor out today or tomorrow depending on the weather, If I can think of anything I will post back.

Got mine out, put new plugs in it, reinstalled it, it works. The regulator is the problem on mine, Glass slips out of track. Trial and error for me.

I think I may have located the problem, I checked continuity of the power wire that goes to the master switch console between the switch console and the accy delay relay. There isn't any continuity, so if I'm doing a valid check, there's a break in the wire.

I checked it by removing the Accy delay relay, according to my interpretation pin 30 on the relay socket should be where the blue/black wire connects the master switch to the relay.

does this sound correct? I figured I'd post this before I tear into the wire harness.