Heavy Vibration from braking with 7 people in car

About a week or two ago during the Floyd Mayweather fight, I had 7 people in the car, (about 150 pounds each person) so I guess I had about 1,000 pounds in the car.

I was going a bit fast on the highway, and there was a sharp right turn so I was braking medium hard. The car started vibrating massively and you could hear it really loudly so I had to let go of the brake and apply softer where it would vibrate not so violently.

I did notice that a long time ago, if I had to make a hard stop along the highway from someone slowing down in the middle of the road with just me in the car, there was a vibration but not as severe as that.

What could be the issue? I'm assuming it's from the brakes but I don't see how the brakes could cause massive vibrations like that.

You sure it's not the ABS kicking in?

could be the ABS and/or the RSC (roll stability control)

colintrax said:

You sure it's not the ABS kicking in?

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I don't think it's the ABS. I've had the ABS go off before and it does not feel like that. The vibration wasn't really in the pedals but throughout the whole car. If it was indeed ABS, then superman must have made that ABS because that shook the whole car. Also, it wasn't me slamming the brakes, it was just normal braking to slow down.

Also, I was going straight to slow down for the up coming turn so RSC probably wasn't the thing kicking in.

The vibration only happened when I was braking, and even with light braking, the vibration to the car was less but still there. After I dropped everyone off, the vibrations went away.

I managed 45K outta my stock brakes and after hearing some members Sport's only managing 20-25K miles, I feel lucky! I have four brand new rotors and the police severe duty pads that I need to install but I've been procrastinating because the brakes only get ugly when they are hot. When I say ugly, it's exacctly as you describe your vibe. I *know* its my front right rotor is lightly warped and has visible hotspots but with light to medium braking when they are cool, no vibration to speak of. So maybe try getting your brakes hot, a couple back to back hard stops from 80MPH and see if your issue returns. If it does, your needing a new set. I don't know for a fact that they couldn't be 'turned' or surfaced like they did in the old days but in my experience with cars circa 2000 and later, they rotors are too thin to surface even once. I used Levittown Ford to online order them, no Chinese Rock auto brake parts for me thanks

It's probably a combination of warped rotors and your ABS. Ford rotors suck, I have over the years had to replace them on all my vehicles at between 15,000 and 20,000 miles. Once I learned my lesson, I replaced them with a better set of rotors. I have about 2,000 more miles to go on the ones on my 2014.

Halwg said:

It's probably a combination of warped rotors and your ABS. Ford rotors suck, I have over the years had to replace them on all my vehicles at between 15,000 and 20,000 miles. Once I learned my lesson, I replaced them with a better set of rotors. I have about 2,000 more miles to go on the ones on my 2014.

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Raybestos makes an upgrade kit for the PI Utility that's supposed to be quite good.

http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magn...vanced-technology-police-patrol-products.html

Miles on the Explorer? My guess is it's time to change the pads and rotors. Mine lasted 80K miles with a mix of daily commuting 40 miles roundtrip, and road trips. Over the last couple thousand miles prior to changing the pads and rotors, it exhibited some vibration and noise from the brakes.

I'm not sure what hot spots look like but I'll definitely check my rotors.

I am at 34,000 miles and there seems to be plenty of pad left. I'll take pictures of my brakes and rotors to see if they need changing. I haven't heard any squealing or anything from them though. I am trying to go as long as I can on them.

I haven't felt the vibrations recently. However, would it destroy my brakes if I don't do anything about it?

1995E said:

I haven't felt the vibrations recently. However, would it destroy my brakes if I don't do anything about it?

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That one is kind of hard to answer. IF you have that concern, I'd be taking it in to the dealership.

There is a known issue with warped rotors. That definitely causes a pulsation.

If you are unsure of the cause, I'd be taking it to a shop to have it looked at.

dco43054 said:

That one is kind of hard to answer. IF you have that concern, I'd be taking it in to the dealership.

There is a known issue with warped rotors. That definitely causes a pulsation.

If you are unsure of the cause, I'd be taking it to a shop to have it looked at.

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If they aren't too badly warped, they can be machined to true them up. This generally only lasts a short while because removing the material makes them thinner and more prone to re-warping due to heat. That's why I always just replace the rotors.

Halwg said:

If they aren't too badly warped, they can be machined to true them up. This generally only lasts a short while because removing the material makes them thinner and more prone to re-warping due to heat. That's why I always just replace the rotors.

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Auto parts stores and repair shops used to turn drums and rotors all the time. Now, not so much, I'm sure because people will just pay for new ones, and because you don't have to wait to have them machined and returned. Time is money in the repair biz, and a whole lot easier for those without a machine on premise.

dco43054 said:

Auto parts stores and repair shops used to turn drums and rotors all the time. Now, not so much, I'm sure because people will just pay for new ones, and because you don't have to wait to have them machined and returned. Time is money in the repair biz, and a whole lot easier for those without a machine on premise.

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I'll probably do a replacement. Is there any way I can put the Interceptor brake rotors and the interceptor pads or maybe do a ceramic brakes upgrade?

I looked at sgt141's suggestion and it looks good, but I wonder if I can buy as a civilian.

I just used the Autozone Duralast Gold, which have a limited lifetime warranty, and the Duralast Rotors, which have a 2 year warranty. If the rotors will warp, it will likely be before the 2 year mark.

The fronts don't require any special tools. As I mentioned, I used a big C clamp and scrap of wood to press the pistons back in. The rears require the brake tool that rewinds and presses the pistons back in.

It was as easy a brake job as any I've done..

Brake job soon

dco43054 said:

I just used the Autozone Duralast Gold, which have a limited lifetime warranty, and the Duralast Rotors, which have a 2 year warranty. If the rotors will warp, it will likely be before the 2 year mark.

The fronts don't require any special tools. As I mentioned, I used a big C clamp and scrap of wood to press the pistons back in. The rears require the brake tool that rewinds and presses the pistons back in.

It was as easy a brake job as any I've done..

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Where did you get the tool that rewinds the rear brakes. I have an Ex with 70K and warped rotors and will be looking to replace soon. Asked at local Pep Boys about the tool needed for the back brakes. They knew nothing about it.

1995E said:

I'll probably do a replacement. Is there any way I can put the Interceptor brake rotors and the interceptor pads or maybe do a ceramic brakes upgrade?

I looked at sgt141's suggestion and it looks good, but I wonder if I can buy as a civilian.

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You can buy the OEM Ford Police Interceptor entire brake package (same as Sport except pads) on your vehicle. Benny from Levittown Ford SuperCenter has listed them on here. They are a good price as well. You get rotors, calipers, and pads.

I don't think most of us driving such a vehicle would, but If you were cheap and handy enough, you could remove the rotors and sand them thoroughly with a medium grit Emory block, 45 degrees across the surface, both sides. Clean them with brake cleaner, re-install them. Then take the pads (if in decent shape) and lay a piece of medium sandpaper on a flat surface and sand them clean to break the pad glaze. Clean them with brake cleaner and re-install. The hard braking vibration is probably just rotor and pad glazing. The pad material has actually attached itself to the rotor excessively and formed a hard glaze. I've done this numerous times on lesser cars and have been able to extend the brake part life significantly.
I change out everything now, but as of late, I can't remember the last time I wore out a set of front pads to half life before the rotors glazed over. Cheers.