Nitrous for the first time.... | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Nitrous for the first time....

So I am starting a project soon where I take a 2 door 2wd Ex drop a 5.0 in it and make if fun and fast... BUT what I want to do first is experiment with Nitrous first on the stock V6 engine, the Nitrous (Wet system) kit seems pretty straight forward... But is all I need to do is hook up the wet system and go, or do I need extra tuning? Will it work, or do I have make adjustments to make it work? I am not looking for optimal amount of HP, but I just want to hook it up and make sure it works, then swap the engine, and get more serous with it. If I don't have to I don't want to spend time tuning an engine that I am getting rid of, hence all the questions, so what do you guys know about this.

Thanks for any input, I got to get going on this ASAP to beat my friend by the end of the summer, lol.
 



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the plan is to go as fast as I can go with a 2 wheel drive Explorer sport, which will be for driving every day, playing around, and generally just beating the snot out of it, one I exceed my time goal of 14-15 seconds, and keep it reliable, I will just play around with it and save for a good shell, most likely a 3rd gen, a motor, and trans, then go crazy with that. I have changed my goals, but I now realize that making a 10 second 2nd gen might not be the best idea, unless I get a better paying job, lol.

Also, does anybody know how the NHRA does the whole fuel cell, and battery relocation with in SUVs? Do I need to make a fire wall that completely blocks off the back half of the truck, or can I make a cover, since the fuel cell will most likely be sunk into the floor a bit.


The fuel tank cannot be inside the passenger compartment whatsoever. So, you would either need to locate outside of that, or build a passable firewall to separate the cell.

Why not locate the fuel cell where the spare tire would be? It is a prime location and there is plenty of room. I have a 20 gallon fuel cell mounted in that location in my 2003 Explorer with plenty of room to spare. It should be workable with an older Sport too. Just fabricate an adapter piece that allow the stock fuel filler neck to route to the top of the cell. That's what I did and it worked great.
 



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Don't forget about needing a torque converter either. You will need higher stall with lots of clutch material to hold up to the load of accelerating all that weight quickly. Then, will the rest of the trans hold up? hopefully.........





Stock AOD-E/4R70W transmissions are pretty stout in stock form, and with a shift kit or the J-Mod they can hold a bit more if they aren't just worn out due to age and high mileage. If the time comes to shoot for serious power, then they can be built to hold 1,000+ hp but it will cost you. I think mine cost somewhere around $4k iirc but it has been forever since I bought it.




I really want you to go nitrous. We don't have anyone here that has done a build bread on install and use of it on our trucks. It would be cool.


Correction: "In recent times". There have been quite a few of us who have ran nitrous in our Explorers over the years. I used to run a Zex wet kit (Zex?!? what was I thinking?!?) in my 2000 5.0 before I took it out and did the XB-1A supercharger. There was a guy named Pony-something or another that used to run a 100 shot on top of his Powerdyne BD-11A supercharger at 8 psi, Alec used to on his Sport, and I could keep going. The build threads may still be on here from years back. Doing a quick search should determine whether they were pruned from the database due to age.
 






I guess I have never seen anyone detail an install on a nitrous kit here.
By details, I mean how the fuel system was set up, and where the nitrous injector, and the fuel injector were located. Also, I did not know so many people have sprayed their Explorers.

Rocket, while your here, what are your thoughts on the factory 12" torque converter clutch holding up to 450hp? This is relevant to this thread. I do understand that one would want a slightly higher stall, but wonder about larger clutches, multi clutches, etc.
 






Honestly a dart/R/boss/a4 etc. with some savy shopping will only add $1200-1800 to the initial build if starting from scratch............thats still a hard pill to swallow but worth it down the road.............i'm all about stock block stuff myself being a poor boy lol............the can hold up decent if the tune is right and you dont spin it to hard...........pretty sure nhra moved the roll bar rule to 11.49 not that thats a big deal.............again getting the truck running and to the track is the first step lol..........



Yeah, you are probably right with the 11.49 ET requirement now. I stopped paying attention to it because I refuse to get a cage in a street car.
 






Don, the nitrous stuff is pretty easy. I suggest running a wet type of system versus a dry. I have explained this before in multiple threads, so I won't elaborate in here besides saying that it is more tunable and safe. So, with a wet system only supplying about 100shot, just going with a wet nozzle system is fine. Both the fuel and nitrous plumb into that one nozzle. Location of this nozzle should be between the MAFS and the TB (Post-MAFS & pre-TB); usually a few inches away from the TB and spraying directly into it. DO NOT PLACE IT BEFORE THE MAFS (between air filter and MAFS)! If you want, you can do a few IATS things with spark retardation as well, but again, I won't bother talking about that right now. As for places to get the fuel from? I cannot recall if the stock 5.0 Explorer rails have a schrader test valve on them or not, but if they do then that would be a good location to pull fuel from. If not, then just splice into the fuel line with the proper Tee junction that will withstand ~44psi of fuel pressure and call it a day. No big deal, really.



Rocket, while your here, what are your thoughts on the factory 12" torque converter clutch holding up to 450hp? This is relevant to this thread. I do understand that one would want a slightly higher stall, but wonder about larger clutches, multi clutches, etc.



Going with a higher stall really depends on many things, the main factors being user preference, mod combo, and if you want to be able to lock the TC up at WOT. Those all make a big difference, really. While a "3,000rpm" TC may work well for a person with a given combo, it may not work well for another running something different. Also, some people just prefer different stall speeds which especially becomes noticed in street vehicles. For instance, I am running a Circle D 258mm (3,000rpm) triple disk lockup TC in my twin turbocharged G8 because I wanted the capability to lock the clutches at WOT under full power. For some folks with similar combos to me 3000 was too high for their preference, for others it was too low. Some wanted the WOT lockup capability for high power combos while others did not want to pay the $400 premium. Also, for those running a roots supercharger, they wouldn't need to go as high with the stall, etc. Also, stall ratings are subjective. If a given TC is rated at 2500rpm stall for a combo making 450rwhp, and I throw it in my G8 which makes 640rwhp then it will stall at a much higher rpm than 2500. My point is to take the "stall speed rating" with a relative grain of salt.

There is no one size fits all unfortunately. That's why it is best to either have a combo 100% locked into a plan that won't change before specing and buying a TC, or just wait until the build is almost finished if you aren't that decisive with the initial direction the combo is going to take. Either way, expect to pay anywhere from $800-$1200 for a quality TC; with $800 being single disk lockup and $1200 being where the multi-disk units come in at.

Cliffnotes Generally speaking:

-Lockup vs non-lockup: Do you want the ability to lock or not lock the TC at speed? What this means for cruising is locking the TC in a 1:1 ratio so that there is no parasitic drive losses due to a speed differential between what the engine is spinning at and what the trans input shaft is doing. Lockup usually means better fuel economy. Lockup for racing means determining when you are done needing that torque multiplication that the TC provides in the earlier RPMs, and just want the HP on the top end. Sometimes locking up at WOT can provide a better ET, but it also introduces considerably more stress to drivetrain parts; which means that if you want to lock at WOT and are making some serious power then you had better make sure that your transmission can hold it!

-Clutch sizes: The larger the contact surface area of the clutches inside the transmission the better. Clamping force of the shift solenoids comes into play here too, but generally speaking the bigger and more clutches that you can fit, the less slippage you will encounter. This is also the same for the lockup clutches in a lockup TC as well.

-Multi-disk vs single disk lockup: You can kind of derive an explanation of this based upon what I talked about in clutch sizes. Multidisk will allow the holding of more power than the single disk will when it comes to lockup at WOT.
 






Thanks Rocket. There sure is lots to consider.
I think in the sandbox we are in with our stock blocks limiting levels and helping us make decisions, we should be able to use a 12" converter with oversized single clutch and hopefully retain lockup at WOT. At least that's what I'm going to shoot for.

Once I get my combo working with the rear mount turbo, I might go after a small NOS kit to help get the turbo spooling earlier in the rpm range. We will see what happens as far as the larger displacement 347 spooling the turbo faster than a 302.
Thanks so much for taking the time to do an explanation of 'only needing 1 jet', and being able to use the Schroeder valve as a fuel tap if necessary.
 






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