Axle Pivot Bushings

I put new axle pivot bushings in my 91 Xl and have a question. The old bushings were flared at the back side obviously to keep them in the bore. When i took them out they slid out easily. When i put the new ones in they took some force to push in so i did not flare them. Should i have flared them or done anything to the back after pressing them in? I also changed the fasteners to a grade 8 bolt with lock washers etc. The originals were metric but kinda worn. please let me know if these issues are alright and maybe let me hear a few stories about your experiences. Thanks

It is recommended that you flair the metal shell to lock the bushing in place and prevent the bushing from backing out. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the bushings backing out, so I'm guessing your fine. After pressing in the Axle pivot bushing I used a large "C" clamp to keep it in place while I used a large screw driver and hammer to flair the outer shell in 4 locations.

Thanks for the reply, they did go in tight and would take alot of force to back them out, i also did my radius arm bushings and swaybar bushings so the axles really can't do too much moving around, except for up and down. Never the less i will keep on eye on them for a bit, if they havn't moved after a while i will suspect it will be ok. Thanks again!

can you tell a difference in you ride quality now, with the new axel pivot bushings

also what kind did you use?

Ryan

I do notice a difference, especially when i take it off road, on road its not a huge difference, i mean you can tell they are new and the axles don't float so much, but my old bushings were not terrible, just beginning to wear out. The handling is much better, steering is tighter. I am glad i did it. I used the Moog bushing kit, they are poly replacements. I also used new grade 8 fasteners to replace the metric bolts ford used stock. I put a lock washer on mine though, just cause i like the fact that they are there. Anyhow, i would recommend doing yours if you feel the steering could be better, they do make a difference.

I tack welded the new bushing collars in place on this set of beams.
I did the press in job on my first set of beams. The new bushings are designed with a rib to hold them in place, well it doesnt work. The beam will walk back and forth at will, and cause caster problems along with driveability issues (pulsing under braking, poor alignment, etc)

So I recommend flaring or welding the new collar in place.

Love to bring up an old thread, but I guess I’m re-thinking stuff

When I did my axle pivot bushings I simply pressed in the new bushings with that little ring that came with the set. The shell stuck out maybe 3 or 4 millimeters on the backside of the beam and maybe a 3rd of an inch in the front, but with the ring which fills in the space nicely and seems to have molded itself to the outer diameter of the bore.

Derocha explained (in this thread or another) that you need to press the shell in completely without the poly urethane ring that comes with the kit? Now if it press it in completely (w/o the ring) it will be sticking out 1/3in in the back, that’s what I want? Then flair the back side of the sleeve? I’m pretty sure I don’t want that beam to have any room to walk back and forth, but if I remember correctly the stock bushings left enough play for the beams to 'walk'...

reason I’m questioning this, is im getting a nasty grinding/squeak over bumps (on the front driver side only) and I get a 'clunk' when I'm making right turns... mainly when I come to a stop with a slight right turn, or negotiating parking spots.

A stock axle pivot bushing will only contain a metal shell along with the rubber bushing already installed/bonded to the inside (it contains nothing else). The Energy suspension bushing was not bonded together and could be disassembled. It contained an additional O-ring type bushing that I did NOT use. I though about it for a while and tried to envision how it would be installed, but determined it was most likely an extra part for use on other vehicles. The bushing I installed looked 100% like the OEM so I had not worries the about leaving off the O-ring piece.

You'll need to inspect the Axle pivot bushings for any sign of wear or if the bushing has been walking around within the TTB. While your under your rig you should check out your Radius Arm bushings as they contribute more to the symptoms you hare having.

Wow, very old thread.
When i posted this thread i had just put a new set of Axle pivot bushings on the truck. I went with the MOOG brand bushings which had the polyurethane bonded to the metal shell that gets pressed into the beams. When i put them in i never did flare that shell or tack weld it but just press it in and reassembled. I visually inspected them for sometime after to see if they were moving around but always found that they were still seated they way i left them. About 3 weeks ago i finished my superlift installation and while i had the beams off the truck i had gone ahead and flared them with a punch and hammer. They never did float around or Walk but i figured that it was a good idea to flare them now that im going to be wheeling a bit harder than i was before. (I didn't flare the whole thing i just folded 2 sides over basically.)
If your planning to change the bushings due to this clunk, i would suggest doing the Radius arms bushings as well if they havn't been done yet, especially if the beams are gonna be off the truck. You will notice a huge improvement once they are done. My truck was a sweet ride when it had the bushings done, but i tell ya, nothing beats these extended RA's.

Dan

Creager,
Sorry, seems my first post didn't really answer any of your questions, lol.
Anyhow, my axle pivot bushings pressed in just like the stock ones were. I had about 3/16-1/4 (roughly) inch , sticking out the back side of the beam and the front pressed right up to the lip until it wouldn't press in anymore ( basically, lip was seated on the face of the beam.) The bushing should not walk around in the beam, if yours is then that maybe part of the problem. That outer sleeve should be firmly pressed into the beam and flared or tack welded to prevent it from moving what soever. Then bolt it up to the pivot bracket and torque down. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have anymore questions about it. I will be more than happy to answer them if i can.

Dan

Thanks guys.

Yeah i installed the energy suspention kit a little while back. The radius arms, sway bar, everything is new, or since january new .

I did use the o-rings that came with the axle pivot bushings supplied in the kit. I was able to press the bushings in with the o-rings on but the sleeve would only come out the back of the arm at maybe a 1/16 of an inch. Not very much.

Everything was nice and quiet for a while then it slowly got nosier and nosier. I checked the axle piviot bushings first (i had suspected it to be them all the noise) and sure enough when i unbolted them the bushings just 'fell' out of the bore.

Ill take it as i should take the o-rings off and press the bushings as flush to the beam as possible.

i can tell my noises are not the radius arm bushings. I mean they are new . It doesnt sound like its comming from under my seat, it feels like its comming from under the front clip. Ive played with those numerous times (with the OEM rubber kind esspecially); damn rubber just doesnt hold up.