Starter Problem?

smashdn · November 1, 2004

'93 Explorer Sport 4WD automatic tranny
I turned off my vehicle and then tried to restart it. All i get is a click from the front left area of the vehicle. the alternator was recently replaced so I know it is not it. the only thing i can figure is the starter. the first time it happene it just set for a while and then would crank no problem. this is the second timefor it to happen and need some advice quick or i will not get home tonight!

VBVA · November 1, 2004

If its one click and then nothing, its your starter. If its a lot of quick successive clicks with no crank in the engine its electrical.

MEXEXP · November 1, 2004

Same here...

Mine wen't last friday, I took it to an Auto-electrical repairman and he disassembled the Starter and took out the inner part and saw that the copper bushing was deteriorated and told me that I had to replace it.

The good part is that here in Mexico you can get spare new parts for it, and total cost to rebuild it was $60.00 with installation instead of the $120.00 they wanted for it at Autozone.

And the difference now with the rebuilt starter is that the motor cranks faster and turns on faster.

smashdn · November 1, 2004

thanks for all the quick info. Unfortunately I do not live in Mexico adn will therefore be stuck with the autozone price tag. Is it possible that I have a problem with a solenoid or cable from the battery to the starter? Just want to make sure it is the starter before I dump 100 bucks into the engine compartment.

Robb · November 1, 2004

It is VERY possible that it is your battery cables. It is common for 1st Gen battery cables to corrode from the inside out. Even if they aren't the cause of your current problem, replacing them is a good idea.

Also, and I am not a 1st Gen guy, but I believe there are two solenoids in the 1st Gen starter circuit. One mounted on the firewall/fender and the more common one mounted on the starter itself. You could possibly only be hearing the click of the first solenoid, and the second one is dead. If it is your started mounted solenoid, you may be able to only replace the solenoid, which would be cheaper than replacing the entire starter/solenoid combo.

With a voltmeter, it is pretty easy to determine where voltage is being lost. A voltmeter can also show if you are getting "surface" voltage throughout the entire circuit, but no "real" voltage, which would be a symptom of bad connections or deteirating cables.

rlcrafts · November 1, 2004

Went thru that with mine. Replaced the solenoid on the firewall and it seemed to work for a few days and then quit again. Took the starter out and replaced it, haven't had the trouble since.

fearsome · November 4, 2004

I had intermittent problems like this with my 93 sport. I could drive it somewhere, shut it off, and it would not restart. Sometimes after a few tries it would magically start. As Robb suggested, it was bad battery cables. They looked fine, but when I followed the cable down toward the starter I found a spot where the insulation was turning pink. The cable was terrible on the inside and looked good outside.

Also, if you do replace it, take your time and make sure it is not laying across the exhaust manifold. It doesn't take long before you are replacing it again. Unfortunately I know from experience.

DeRocha · November 4, 2004

When this happens tap the outside of the starter with a hammer (don't kill it, just give it several taps). Then try starting it. When the starter gets old it begins to stick and will not crank over... Changes in temperature can as when the engine cools can help free it, but tapping seams to free it up and get it working again.. This happened to me a few months back. I had to use the hammer method twice before I ended up replacing the starter with a new unit... I have had Zero problems since putting the new one in.

Con Seann3ry · November 4, 2004

yup, do what derocha said, if it cranks after that it's your starter, and you should replace it immediately - it may work for a few more months no problem after you tap it this time, but you don't want it to go out when you need it most

ohe_boy · May 4, 2005

Helpful tip... now need answers to repair

A similar thing happened to me today and after a friend of mine told me to put a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid it should start right up. Well I did that and it started right up. Now I'm wanting to replace what ever has gone bad.

So is it 1) the positive battery cable? 2) the upper solenoid (near the battery)? or 3) the starter/solenoid combo?

DeRocha · May 4, 2005

I'm assuming you jumped the fender solenoid correct?

The Fender solenoid works like a high powered relay to connect it's 2 posts together when a trigger voltage is received by turning the key. If you have a multimeter you would see a constant 12v on the post going to the battery and the other would only get 12v when you turn the key. If you jumped it directly to the battery then the wire to the solenoid could be bad or the solenoid. With the key @ Run take a good sized screw driver touch both large posts on the solenoid. If the starter works there is a problem with the solenoid. Sometimes just removing the old wires and cleaning up the terminals solves the problem. If not a new one is <$20.

Longjohn119 · May 4, 2005

Autozone (and most other parts houses) sells rebuilt kits for starters and altenators for 25 -30 bucks. You get new bushings/bearings and brushes with the kit and they reasonably easy to do (getting out the old bushings/bearings is the hardest part)

I got a '85 Ranger with 90k on it in '93 and one of the first things I did was pull the starter and altenator and install the kits .... I sold the Ranger a couple of weeks ago with 238k on it and never had to touch the starter or altenator and it never failed to start except when the battery went bad (twice) and a simple jump got me up and going to get a new battery. Most motor problems are caused by bearings/bushings wearing out and causing the motor to draw more than the specified current

I plan on doing the same to the '91 EB Explorer I got a couple of weeks ago .... Preventative Maintenance nearly always pays off big time and over half the work in commercial HVAC consists of PMs and if it didn't pay off smart businesses wouldn't be doing it ... I pride myself in the fact that less than 1% of the units I PM break down between checks and the reputation I have because of that means businesses ask for me by name which means my boss kisses my butt instead of the other way around ;-)

ohe_boy · May 4, 2005

DeRocha said:
I'm assuming you jumped the fender solenoid correct?

The Fender solenoid works like a high powered relay to connect it's 2 posts together when a trigger voltage is received by turning the key. If you have a multimeter you would see a constant 12v on the post going to the battery and the other would only get 12v when you turn the key. If you jumped it directly to the battery then the wire to the solenoid could be bad or the solenoid. With the key @ Run take a good sized screw driver touch both large posts on the solenoid. If the starter works there is a problem with the solenoid. Sometimes just removing the old wires and cleaning up the terminals solves the problem. If not a new one is <$20.

DeRoacha - Yah I jumped it to the fender solenoid. The terminal on the solenoid I jumped it to was the one with a protective cap on (the one closer toward the rear). This made the engine start with the key in the off position. well at least it was trying to crank over and started as soon as I turned the key as if trying to start the car. Is it possible to check if the ignition switch (where the key is) is working properly? Could a bad ignition switch or wire be bad and not deliver power to the solenoid when I try to start tht car? I want to get the explorer fixed as soon as possible so I don't have to jump the car everytime I need to start it up.

DeRocha · May 5, 2005

Do you have a multi-meter or circuit tester? If not you will not be able to easily diagnose electrical problems. It is very common for the starter solenoid on the fender to go bad and stop working. When you turn the ignition key do you hear the solenoid click? If no click is heard then its either not getting the trigger voltage from the ignition, or the solenoid is broken.

Longjohn119 · May 5, 2005

OK new poll ...

How many of you Ford Fans when teenagers, had an old wreck Ford that you would turn on the key, open the hood, and jump the solenoid to get it started .... for more than a week before you could pony up the money for a new one????

How many had stick shifts and got ran over because they forgot to take it out of gear first? (I remember seeing that one happen, ran over the guy's foot and smacked a parked car)

Lloyd10977 · May 6, 2005

Longjohn119 said:
OK new poll ...

How many of you Ford Fans when teenagers, had an old wreck Ford that you would turn on the key, open the hood, and jump the solenoid to get it started .... for more than a week before you could pony up the money for a new one????

How many had stick shifts and got ran over because they forgot to take it out of gear first? (I remember seeing that one happen, ran over the guy's foot and smacked a parked car)

I had a Mercury Comet Caliente (forgot the year) that had to be started like that. I got aswitch in a shop class and leads from both poles to the switch uder the dash to start it. Since the switch was not easily visible, it made for a great anti-theft device.

Starter Problem?

smashdn

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VBVA

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MEXEXP

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smashdn

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Robb

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rlcrafts

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fearsome

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DeRocha

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Con Seann3ry

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ohe_boy

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DeRocha

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Longjohn119

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ohe_boy

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DeRocha

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Longjohn119

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Lloyd10977

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