EE Rear Sway Bar & Energy Suspension bushings Install & REVIEW!!!

In the pursuit to improve the handling of the X, I purchased the Explorer Express Rear Sway Bar, as well as the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings kit for the front sway bar.

My goal is to improve the handling, but not sacrifice ride quality or ride height/ ground clearance. I want a SUV that is safe to drive around town, during emergency maneuvers, and still be able to do light off-roading (i.e.: fire roads, snow, curbs, etc.). I don't want it to ride like a race car (already have one) or like an old Caddy.

One of my pet peeves about the Explorer is the rear end's tendency to "skip" or "hop" when cornering over cement seams and bumps at speed. This has occurred in both of my 2nd gen X's, and have heard it reported by others.

My other pet peeve is the tendency for the truck to "flop-over" in steering transitions, going from one direction to the other. It would seem like the X has to set in its lean before turning comfortably at speed. This is magnified when switching directions.
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First impressions of the EE Rear Sway Bar are HUGE!!! I mean, my other X has the Saleen rear bar, but this dwarfs even that! I thought I overheard my front bar mumbling something about being inadequate (more on this later).

Install was straight forward. Remove stock bar, install EE bar. I did this in my driveway, without jacking it up, at night, solo. I would give this a 3 out of 10 for difficulty. The hardest part was lifting the heavy EE bar into place while snaking it through the leaf-springs and shocks. Another person would have made this process much easier.

The kit came with new bushings and grease. After 1k miles, no noises so far.

I was disappointed to find the stock end links are reused. These are not designed to transmit the additional torque into the bar and I think that these are a HUGE weak link in the system. The bushings are squishy and the shaft is very thin. They are a unique design and cannot be replaced with universal end links. I think there is more flex in the end links than there is twist in the bar, thus not utilizing the bar's full benefit.

Result? The improved handling is noticeable, but not as significant as I thought it might be for the size of the bar. Turns are taken flatter, and without as much push (understeer) as there is stock. The biggest benefit is the X does not "skip" or "hop" over bumps when turning at speed. This has been reduced to a very minimal amount, and I'm very happy about it. However, the X does still "flop" over when transitioning direction.

I would give the EE Bar a 9 out of 10 overall. Easy install, fair price, and nearly complete kit (ENDLINKS!!!) with immediate results with increased safety and handling without sacrificing comfort.
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First impressions of the Energy Suspension front end sway bar bushing kit was "that's it?" Yep, only new sway bar bushings and end links (with new bushings). At less than $40 for the kit, it was worth a try.

The install was very easy, a 1 out of 10 for difficulty (maybe a 2 if your bolts are rusted). I did it in my garage in the dark by myself. It took less than 30 minutes.

No instructions are included, but it's pretty self explanatory. First, I loosened the 2 bushing mounts, and removed one (but leave the other attached). I lubed up the new bushing and slipped it over the cleaned bar. I carefully reattached the original bracket, but didn't tighten. Repeat for the other bushing.

HINT: Keep an eye on the bushing and the bushing mount when tightening. The bushing is a snug fit in the mount.

After tightening down the sway bar bushing mounts, remove the end links. Do both at the same time. They are long bolts with a ny-lock nut on the bottom. Pull the ends of the sway bar down to help slip the end links out.

The Energy Suspension end links looked impressive with their gold-color, but I couldn’t imagine them being much better than the stock ones. In they went with no problems.

Initially the result was hardly noticeable. Driving around town the handling didn’t seem to change. However, once at highway speeds, the X didn’t “flopâ€￾ into the turns. I could dart around changing directions in a controlled manner with predictable results. YEA!!!

I would give the Energy Suspension front sway bar bushing kit a 10 out of 10!!! A great price, easily installed (even without instructions), and good results improving safety and predictability without sacrificing comfort.

Between the EE rear bar, and the Energy Suspension bushings, I’m very happy with the way it handles. A recent trip up to Tahoe (hwy 50) was very satisfying as I took turns faster than ever. Driving the X over 80 mph is now confident and secure.

P.S. I do plan on installing Bilstein shocks in the near future, as well as playing with the bump-stop height for some further suspension tuning.

-Brad

Nice write up man.

I bleieve there IS some higher preformance front end links on the market.

I am not sure who and where though. I am sure some one will chime in.

I'm not looking for FRONT end links, I'm looking for REAR.

The Energy Suspension kit replaced the front ones already.

-Brad

Brad,

Would you happen to have the part numbers for the Energy Suspension bushings? I bought a set of used EE swaybars recently and want to replace my old stock bushings also. Thanks!

Joe

Brad,
Nice write up.
Believe it or not, you can get rid of most of the "flop" by doing a simple suspension lift (TT & AAL or TT & F150 leaves - shackles don't help in this case), too. The frame has it's own center of gravity (CG) as does the body. The problem with a stock Explorer is that the two CGs are too far apart. When entering a turn, the body's CG is (obviously) higher than the frame's CG. As the body's CG moves (in an arc, perpendicular to the line of travel), the frame's CG moves (in the same arc) but not as much or as fast. When the suspension finally "catches up" with this movement (to stop it), the body has leaned over ("flop"). By raising the suspension, you move the CGs closer together. This allows the suspension to act on the body's lean ("flop") earlier which keeps the body more upright.
One thing to be careful of with that thicker rear bar, is inner rear wheel lift. If you really go tootin' into a corner, it's possible for all that body lean to lift the the inner rear wheel off the ground (I've actually done this in my old vintage race Shelby Mustang). Obviously, one rear wheel off the ground isn't good. If something like that starts to happen, the bar is too stiff. Although, I'm pretty sure the stock bat is too soft.
Keep us posted on how things go - Dave.

http://www.central4wd.com/store/itemdetail.asp?ID=2145

Link for front bushings/endlinks. Of course don't forget that you no longer have the '97 front bar when ordering.

Joe - see above from MIKE, central 4X4 is where I purchased my kit.

Dave - Thanks for the advice. I want to keep the stock height, because my X is driven on the street. By replacing the front sway bar bushings, i eliminated the "flop" that the X had. I understand by lifting the X, it might reduce the flop, but would increase the likelyhood of tipping over in a turn.

I tried to get the inside wheels to lift in a steady state cornering over 40mph, but couldn't do it. I believe that you might still be able to roll my X if you transition quickly enough from one directon to the other. (Testing was on a closed course race track). I should have compared lap times, but I didn't think to do it.

-Brad

good stuff. i plan on getting the EE rear sway bar and the Bilstein shocks as well. just need to figure out a budget for the rest of the year... i wish those Bilsteins were cheaper. the best price i could find was $65 each at truckperformance.com

Check out Rancho RSX's, I got a set of them for a little over $200 for a set...good shox too.

raginraj - check shox.com That's the best price I've found, and that's where I plan on buyin mine.

The Rancho shocks tend to fade and are over-damped. Plus, the Bilsteins have a lifetime warranty and are rebuildable.

EBInterceptor said:

Of course don't forget that you no longer have the '97 front bar when ordering.

Click to expand...

I thought the EE front bar was the same diameter as the stock bar, just a solid piece instead of hollow.

Joe

Oversquare said:

I understand by lifting the X, it might reduce the flop, but would increase the likelyhood of tipping over in a turn.

Click to expand...

Brad,

That's where a lot of the misconception comes in. Doing a mild suspension lift (1.75" in my case), reduces the flop AND reduces the likelihood of tipping over. With the lift, the suspension is capable of catching and stopping the body roll before it can cause a flip.

Glad to hear that there appears to be so sign of rear wheel lift. That would be my biggest concern with a thicker rear bar.

Rodeo Joe,
I doubt seriously that it would be solid. Not only would it be extremely heavy but it would be incredibly stiff and most likely break before it flexed.

D.

Rodeo Joe - You're right. Early 2nd Gen X had a hollow front bar, where later models had a solid bar of the same diameter. All 2nd Gen have a solid rear bar, and the EE bar is a much larger (thicker) solid rear bar. I only replaced the Rear bar with an EE bar.

Bronco - I understand what you're thinking, but if you raise the overall (total) CG without widening the wheelbase proportionally, then you raise the roll-center and lower the break-over point (the angle at which the truck will tip).

For example, 2 identical trucks, only one has a 2" lift. As the angle of the ground perpendicular to the truck increases, which will roll over first? Of course, the one with the 2" lift because it has a higher CoG and lower break-over point.

However, how the suspension lift affects the way the driver feels the car handles can give a false sense of security. Usually the result of a lift is a greater decrease in handling than there is in an increase in roll over likelihood. This gives the perception that you can drive the vehicle harder (when you really aren't) with a lower likelihood of rolling over. Make sense?

Don’t believe me? I’d be happy to run controlled tests on our two trucks to see which one is more likely to roll. Of course, these would be conducted on a closed course with a professional driver, but I won’t assume responsibility for the damage on the truck that rolls first.

-Brad

I see what you're saying. All I know is that my truck is no longer "tippy" and I'm able to handle constant radius highway clover-leafs at a much higher rate of speed than before the suspension lift. I'd love to come out for a little skid pad and road course 'test' at Sears Point (I guess they don't call it that any more, do they), err, Infineon Raceway.

Someday..............

D.

Dave - Anytime! I can scare you straight in a race car lapping Sears Point. But I'll scare you sh1tless in the X!!! LOL!!!

Good luck and have fun!

-B

I dunno about being scared straight in a race car, I had Rick Titus drive me around the course in a Saleen Mustang. I almost barfed in the Carousel once. Then, Bob Bonderant took us around the track in one of his school's buses! Ever done a four wheel drift in an F-450 chassis cab dually with 10 other students on board? Pretty awesome. Save me a spot, I'll make it someday.

Thanks Oversquare:

My EE rear swaybar is waiting on me to pick it up at the UPS depot this afternoon! I can't wait to get it on my Ex. Nice writeup!

Regards,
John.

John - Let me know how it goes. I'm interested to find out if these writeups are helpful. Have fun!

PS - Whe I installed aftermarket (saleen) swaybars in my Sport, the difference was much more noticable. It created a very neutral/oversteer handeling. You should be very impressed with difference the EE bar makes in a Sport.

-Brad

tool man - how long did it take to get the EE sway bar? i ordered mine this week and i seriously can't wait.

oversquare - u think u could put some pics up? i know the install is pretty easy but i've heard of people installing these things backwards so i'd like to have something to reference to.

My EE swaybars (front and rear) probably helped me last Sunday night...a deer ran into my truck, and while I didn't try to hard to avoid it (which is sometimes the worst thing you can do) I did skid to a stop, and turned into the skid to maintain control. My stiff swaybars held the truck pretty upright through the whole slide.

And Oversquare--interesting comment re: Rancho RSX shocks. Is RSX the same as RSX9000? I have Rancho RSX9000 shocks, and I find them to be far superior to the Edelbrock IAS I used to have on my truck. I know about fade, which the Ed's did regularly. The Rancho 9000s don't do that. Then again, I have never run a Bilstein shock in this particular truck so who knows.