5R55E not shifting from 2-3

Well I don't believe that this is a new problem but I haven't seen a thread that addressed this for the 5r55e. The trans when accelerating with mild pressure on the accelorator does not shift into 3rd until the RPM gets noticiable high. When it does shift it quickly goes into 4th. The kicker is it doesn't do it all of the time though...If you get on accelorator, it seems to shift fairly good. some times if you throttle back it will shift. Any possible fixes or good ideas befor I do the whole rebuild thing?

rebuild the tranny or possibly a new torque converter.... the 5r55e doest have a true second gear, the torque converter is modulated to slip in between 1 and 3 giving you a simulated second. What you are feeling is lockup in first, then lots of RPMs, lock up in 3rd, then 4th and OD. At least that is what i would guess from what you described.

Try driving it like to cause it to make the high RPM shift. then do the exact same thing again but start with the gear selector in 1 and then shift to 2(that actually locks in 3rd gear) should be the same sensation.

Do you have 3rd, 4th and 5th gears ? No 2nd and no 5th could be a solenoid stuck in the off position. Also have you checked the valve body bolts for snug? Checked for any DTC's (codes)?

nissanboy, no disrespect but that thing about modulating/slipping between 1st and 3rd to achieve a virtual 2nd gear isn't right. Bands and clutches are meant as on/off devices otherwise they wear out too fast...just try constantly slipping a manual clutch and see how long it lasts.

Second gear is achieved by applying the overdrive band to first gear (overdriving first gives you a ratio of 0.75:1 X 2.47:1 = 1.85:1-> the second gear ratio in the 5R55E). Sounds like the OD servo is not releasing (whether because of servo position, servo condition, plugged valve, etc.), or the Intermediate servo is not applying. The high revs makes me think it is the Intermediate servo not being applied. Same issues (servo position, servo condition, plugged valve, etc.) could cause this.

that was how Ford explained the thing to me... im no tranny expert though.

I know that constantly slipping those clutches and bands would wear them out eventually but that could mean 150,000 miles or 50,000 miles.

Your answer sounds better though so lets pay attention to you.

I'd try this before I spent the big $ on a new/rebuilt tranny....clean the solenoid valve screen and/or replace the solenoid. Here's what I think is happening: If the screen for the valve is clogged, it will keep fluid from flowing as fast as it should. When you really give it some gas, the control pressure is raised for a short time by means of a "boost valve". This boost valve raises the pressure when you are heavy on the throttle so that the clutch packs are held together with more force. When the pressure is boosted, the partial clog in the screen doesn't matter as much. When you are driving with just a bit of throttle, there is no boosted pressure, so it takes longer for the "right" amount of fluid to flow through the appropriate channels and activate/deactivate certain bands (namely the intermediate band).

This can be done without removing the valve body on the 5R55E. Once you remove the pan and remove the filter, this is what you will see (with some electrical connectors that have been removed in this photo):


The circled solenoid is the one responsible for the 2-3 shift (could you confirm this Glacier? Bore 203). The four solenoids on that side (driver's side) are held in place with a bracket (three bolts). Once you remove the bracket, you can pull the solenoid out. Here is what the end looks like:


Use some brake cleaner and blast the screen clean. Now would be a good time to use the brake cleaner and clean out the other three solenoid valves as well (but they don't have screens). Let the brake cleaning fluid evaporate before you reinstall the solenoid valves. If you have a multimeter handy you can check the resistance of the solenoids, which should be around 27-30 ohm. Put the bracket back on, connect the electrical connectors, replace the filter and pan, fill it back up with fluid and try it out.

Hope that helps. At least it is a DIY option to the stealership's general coverall statement of "it needs a new tranny".....I'm so tired of hearing that BS.

Thanks for the help and info, I have it up on a jack now and will clean the screen and replace the filter as perscribed. I'll let you know if it works.

Brian are all the servo's Ohms the same? I Got 5.4 ohms on the one with the screen (probibly bad) then 27 ohms on the next two to the left (photo) an the far left was 11 ohms (probibly bad) . I'm assuming that they all should be between 26-27. Going to get 2 new ones to see....

Brain said:

Hope that helps. At least it is a DIY option to the stealership's general coverall statement of "it needs a new tranny".....I'm so tired of hearing that BS.

Click to expand...

Brain, you're awesome.. you and Glacier provide such a wealth of auto tranny knowledge... to the point where I'm following and understanding how these elusive things work! Makes it seem quite simple really... THANKS!

The EPC solenoid will have a resistance between 3.1 and 5.7 ohms. (the big one). That one is ok. The TCC solenoid will be between 8.9 and 16. ALl the rest will be between 22 to 48.

No second can be caused either one solenoid stuck ON, or another one stuck off. However, in either case you will not have 5th gear. Try applying 12 v to each solenoid and listen for a click.

One the side with 4, the one closest to the end is the TCC and the other end is the EPC, the 2 middle are shift solenoids. On the side with 2, they are both shift solenoids.

Brain: The circled one is the EPC... a partial clog there could account for the symptoms. Also the SSA solenoid (on the side with 2 and across from the TCC) or the SSB solenoid (right next to the EPC) are both used in the 1-2 shift.

The SSB stuck "OFF" will lose the 1-2 shift, and the SSD (Coast CLutch Regulator - next to the TCC solenoid) stuck "ON" will similarly lose the 1-2 shift.

OK - thanks Glacier

bersanot...sorry for giving the wrong resistances for the two. I noticed that one of my solenoids would cycle on/off after about 15-20 seconds of power (obviously bad) but the resistance reading came out OK (27.9 ohm). The only way I could tell this was by shooting (a bunch) brake cleaner through it while applying the 12V signal (really 13V). There was no clicking sound during the cycling (partially closing/opening) but the cleaner would start to shoot out the "off" position ports .

The reason I picked on that particular bore (203) was because it was the 2-3 shift valve in the A4LD and it (the 5R55E valve body passages with the separator plate and body channels) ran through to channels that went to the right locations.

Glacier had noted in another thread that a new valve body (including the solenoids) was up for sale on ebay for $100. That's really a good deal considering each one of those solenoids sells for more than that from the stealerships.

Incidentally, to anyone reading this thread, it's not that I know more about this trannie than Brain (heavens, THAT would be laughable) only that I have a current Factory manual for the transmission with info not available to Brain. My response above was more or less based on looking up and typing in the info.

Here is the manual page of diagnosing a lack of 2nd gear (which I am assuming this is)... as you can see 90% of possible culprits are not rebuild issues.

I guess we should better explore what he does and doesn't have. Do you have manual 2nd?

Glacier991 said:

I guess we should better explore what he does and doesn't have. Do you have manual 2nd?

Click to expand...

Geez, you guys continue to amaze... Manual 2nd, that manually overdrives first and does it start in first and shift to 2nd or place the tranny in 2nd? So then what happens to 2nd gear when you turn of O/D during towing?

I would probably call it "engine over-speeds on 2-3 shift" or "harsh/delayed 2-3 upshift"....I don't know if the 5R55E manual lists those as conditions (although they are listed conditions for the A4LD).

It should start it in second (not starting in first and then upshifting). Second should still be there even when OD is turned off (because the gear ratio isn't 0.75:1, it is still a good pulling ratio of 1.85:1). It wouldn't stress the overdrive band as much because of the reduction.

Brain, I don;t see that on the "Diagnosis by Symptom" table of contents, although I know what you mean. ALso, I'm not sure if we are looking at a missing 2nd gear (which only makes sense if 5th is also missing... ) or what here. I realized on re-reading we took off without a thorough understanding of the symptom complex.

Glacier and Brian thank you for your valuable info. I had to go to the steelership for the solenoids that I thought were bad. Naturally they didn't have them in stock but they put them on a truck from Portland. I checked back and say Glacier's posting and went ahead and pulled all of them shot the thoroughly with brake cleaner, retested the ohms (EPC = 5.4 TCC=11 all others 26.4 +/-) I put DC to them and they all activated/clicked. I reassembled everything and took it for a test drive.......It worked fine initially then started acting up again... but not as bad as it was. I figured that I may have not of gotten the EPC cleaned/blown out good enough. So I figured that I might as well invest in a new one. When I got to the steelership I was only going to get the EPC but I noticed that the new TCC had a screen also. Evidently Ford has modified/upgraded the TCC. I went ahead and got both I rechecked the ohms on the new ECP & TCC and got about the same as the old. Before I pull the pan back off and put the new ones in I wanted to get your opinions on the problem again.. Here it is in a little better detail..

I have had it checked for trouble codes with negative results.
I do have all gears, but when accelerating slowly it shifts from 1-2 (10-15 mph) ok then it acts like it gets stuck in OD (high Rpm) then shifts into 3rd (25-30 mph) then quick into 4th. 4-5 is ok. I have tried it with the OD on and off, doesn’t seem to make any difference. Again this is an intermittent thing during the Test drive it did it maybe 25% of the time.

Any more insight will be greatly appreciated.