Loose Tie-Rod

On my way up to the slopes last summer to ride my bike, my X’s right front tire hit something and the impact was bad enough bend the steering knuckle. The day after, I replaced the knuckle, had an alignment done, and everything was fine. However, now I realize that the rack and pinion was also damaged. The problem is, I can move the passenger-side tie rod in and out about 1 millimeter when I grip the tire and turn it side to side. When going around turns at low speeds and going over speed bumps, I can hear this tie rod moving as the suspension adjusts to the road.

My question is, can I fix just this lose tie rod or must I replace the entire rack and pinion system? I’ve already looked around for a new rack and pinion and it’s not too pricey – though I’ve read many times that the 2nd gen’s rack and pinion is a PITA to replace.

Thanks for your time!

Is your inner tie rod end or your outer tie rod end bad? If its the outer, that can be replaced quite easily.

Both inner and outer tie rods can easily be replaced with the rack & pinion in the vehicle.

Well see I have no idea whether or not its the inner tie rod or whatever the inner tie rod is connected to inside the R&P housing. All I know is that the inner tie rod can slide in and out about 1mm.

JEFE> I've read that the inner tie rod is a pain cauz of the front cross member. Please chime in on how to easily replace the inner rod.

"I've done the inners. Took me a few hours working in snow/hail." <- it snows there?!?!? Dear God!

Anyways, I'm going to look at it today while I replace the ball joints.

IZwack said:

"I've done the inners. Took me a few hours working in snow/hail." <- it snows there?!?!? Dear God!

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Oh no, not here. I was living up in Utah at the time.

I did the lower ball joints today and while I was at it, I took a peak around the inner tie rod. I don't know how I'm going to get to those inner boot clamps. I mean they are directly right behind the cross member holding the R&P housing. I will try again at some point - I'll also call around to see what the price is on replacing it because with the Holidays coming around, there's just not much time left over to do this - but who knows.

Its actually quite easy to get a screwdriver in there and pop the clamps off. The trick is getting one back on. I used wire ties to hold the boot on and even then its a pain.

Guess ill house the thread and ask, how much play should there be in the tie rods? I lifted up the front end, and the tires more about 3/4 inch from side to side. I've changed the outers, probably need to change the inners too.

etc said:

Guess ill house the thread and ask, how much play should there be in the tie rods? I lifted up the front end, and the tires more about 3/4 inch from side to side. I've changed the outers, probably need to change the inners too.

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Yeah...I've be wondering the same thing. Mine's maybe more like a 1/4 to 3/8 in. play. Anyone know how much side to side play is permissable if any?

Lee

There should be no play at all! 0.75" of play from side to side probably means u shouldn't drive the vehicle.

Well that depends on where the play is coming from. If, by moving the tire, the rest of the steering linkage is moving, all the way back to the steering wheel, then thats ok. Otherwise you have to figure out where that slop is coming from. Look for movement at the tie rod ends, and the steering shaft out of the rack and pinion.

Yeah, it goes all the way back to the steering whee. If I held the steering wheeling it's be very very small amount. I occasionally get mild vibrations, but it's not constant. Oh, and my memory is usless it was maybe 1/2 inch or less.

I got a MOOG inner tie rod today and dropped the car off at a local shop to have them replace it - it is MUCH MUCH too cold in the east coast this week to do any car work outside (i dont have a garage ).

IZ wack, I like to know how it turns out, I've got the same problem on a 03 Sport with only 15000 miles on and no off road misbehavior.

When I turn the steering shaft side to side, there is a noticible clunk and around 3/8's of play. Vehicle drives like it has a mind of it's own. The Ford rep is going to look at it soon as I think there's a problem with the Rack.

hey there MSKAG. Well it turned out just fine. The shop had it finished by the end of the day and now there is no more play in the tie rods! And now there is no more clunking when I got over little dips and humps! I still need to take it in for an alignment but that should be no biggy.

Izwack...I assume there are 2 inner tierod ends...did you get both replaced? Also do you have part #'s for the Moog's and where did you get them.

Also what did the Moog's cost?

Glad it worked out for you....I may be next in line to do this.

Thanks,

Lee

A HOY HOY Lee S.
You are correct, there are indeed 2 tie rods on the vehicle. I, however, only needed one replaced so that is what I did - replaced the passenger side. I got my tie rod from a local DC-area shop called 'Olympic Auto'. The MOOG Part number is I believe 'EV317'. RockAuto.com sells this part for just a bit under $35.00 (plus shipping of course ).

For those who are thinking of replacing the inner tie rod because of a 'clunking' noise, please make sure it IS the inner tie rod that is bad. Keep in mind what JEFE said.

I determind it was the inner tie rod by:
1) Removing the front wheel. U dont need to remove it but it just makes accessing things a lot easier.
2) Disconnected the outter ball joint off of the steering knuckle (remove the safety pin that goes through the threaded end of the ball joint and remove the castellated nut). Most of the time, the ball joint won't just pop right out from the knuckle so you will need a puller or a hammer to pop it out.
3) Once the ball joint is disconnected from the steering knuckle, I then pulled the entire tie rod assembly in and out to check for play.

THe inner tie rod also has a ball joint. Very similar to the outter ball joint on the outter tie rod except the threaded end is parallel to the tie rod body (where its perpendicular on the outter tie rod's ball joint). And because its a ball joint, the "cup/socket" and the "ball" will wear out over time - resulting in some play.

After I disconnected the outter tie-rod from the knuckle, as I've mentioned in my earlier post, I could push/pull the entire tie rod assembly in and out about 1mm with my hands. This was how much play was in the inner tie rod's ball joint. If there is no play, then the inner tie rod is okay.



Just as a side note, a few months ago I had a clunking noise that i just could not figure out . I had removed the bumper and other things trying to figure out which part it was. Well it turned out that it was just an upper shock mount bushing . Over time, they deteriorated and the threaded top metal shaft was moving around the hole that it went through / bolted to. Sure enough, after I replaced the bushing, the clunking went away .

So check around to make sure its not something as simple as a shock bushing thats making all that noise.

IZwack....you da man for that write up...I nominate this for the 'List of Useful Threads' forum.

Thanks pal...now I know exactly what to look for as soon as I dive into this problem after Christmas.

Lee