Baumann Engineering 4R70W Shift Kit Install: PICS!

*V8BoatBuilder* · 12-26-2004, 11:57 PM

I haven't done a "how-to" thead with photos in a while, mostly because I've been at work or in school and unable to wrench on the truck. I've wanted to install the Baumann Engineering shift kit for a while, and finally ordered it and put it in. In addition to the shift kit, I ordered their torque converter application valve update for the extra $30. While I was in the valve body, it made sense to do it. http://www.baumannengineering.com/

Based on a few threads on here, I decided to set my 1-2 shift to stage "2" and the rest of the shifts to stage "3." I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, and also in the snow and ice. I didn't want to spill my morning coffee or break traction on the often used 1-2 shift. More on shift selection later.

I started by draining the transmission fluid and removing the pan and filter. Last year, I had installed a transmission pan drain plug, came in handy this time around:

I took out about 9 quarts of ATF, and refilled about the same. Only 5 came down in the pan, the rest came slowly dribbling out as I dropped the valve body. I disconnected the electronics, and then removed the 25 8mm bolts that hold the valve body to the trans body. Two of them also hold brackets for the shift selector. I removed all but 4 bolts, and then let the valve body hang on those bolts while I held it in position. It's very heavy! If the valve body doesn't drop onto the loose bolts, you most likely missed one. The gasket's don't have enough pressure to hold this thing on. There are no linkages holding on.

Here is a photo of the underside of the 4R70W without the valve body:

The valve body removed from the truck and on my workbench:

I've found borrowed dining hall trays invaluable for work on the truck! Once the valve body was on my bench, I removed the sperator plate.

Valve Body Disassembled, seperator plate removed:

Seperator plate gaskets:

Included in the kit is an awesome instruction manual, some Baumann parts, and the Sonnax parts I ordered.

Sonnax and Baumann transmission parts:

Baumann supplied drill bits:

Keeping the drillbits in order is very important. We're working with super close tolerances here. Once I selected which shift levels I wanted, I cleaned off the ATF from the sperator plate with brake cleaner, then marked the seperator plate with Sharpie. I didn't want to drill the wrong hole! The drillpress was invaluable here.

Marking the seperator plate with Sharpie:

Drilling the seperator plate:

In addition to drilling the seperator plate, part of firming up the 1-2 shift lies in the 1-2 accumulator. It's in the transmission body, but accessed from below. It's held it with a pretty beefy snap ring, so use real snap ring pliers and wear saftey gogles. A spring is replaced, and some shims are added. Pay attention to the late model 4R70W instructions here, things have changed since the AOD-E.

Ford original 1-2 Accumulator assembly:

Baumann vs. Ford upper accumulator spring comparison:

(The Baumann spring is the silver one)

Compressing the 1-2 accumulator to re-install the snap ring was proving to be a challenge, untill I put my bottle jack on a milk-crate to hold it in place while I reinstalled the ring.

Re-installing the spring loaded 1-2 Accumulator:

After that, there were some valves replaced or shimmed in the valve body, and then the body was re-installed into the truck. The torque converter control valve from Sonnax also detialed drilling another hole in the sperator plate.

I cleaned everything with brake cleaner, then pre-lubed it with ATF before reassembly. It was hard to keep it all clean.

On my first test drive I was impressed, but the shifts weren't as firm as I would have imagined. The transmission seemed crisper, and more solid. Downshifts were improved also. If I had to do it over again, I might have gone stage 4, but time will tell. In the explorer 4R70W, many of the passages are already enlarged from what Baumann says that they should be. Since the seperator plate holes are a mater of relative size, I think our stage "3" is a stang AOD-E stage "2." I could be wrong here.

I think it was a good, worthwile mod. Took about 6 hours to complete, including a lunch break. It ended up costing close to $200, the kit and extra parts were $150, and 10 quarts of Mercon V isn't cheap.

More to follow.....

HypIllAuto · 12-27-2004, 12:56 AM

Great write up. I have found that with the 4R70W, especially in the trucks, go with the stage 3 on the 1-2, and the 4 on the 2-3, for performance purposes. With you being in the ice, I think you made a sound decision for the time being.

*performancenut* · 12-28-2004, 05:17 PM

I've found that the shift kit changes are quite compatable with further electronic modifications (chip, tuner, etc) so that further advanced changes can be made. For example and without drastic line pressure increases (this causes premature failure) one can fine tune shifts to the liking with the already introduced mechanical shift kit advantages.

HypIllAuto · 12-28-2004, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by performancenut

I've found that the shift kit changes are quite compatable with further electronic modifications (chip, tuner, etc) so that further advanced changes can be made. For example and without drastic line pressure increases (this causes premature failure) one can fine tune shifts to the liking with the already introduced mechanical shift kit advantages.

Yes you are correct, though you need to make sure if its installed by a shop or "buddy" that you know exactly what springs and modifications have been made. I have actually tuned a truck without being told it had a heavy duty shift kit in it, upped the pressures and blew the solenoids

*performancenut* · 12-28-2004, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HypIllAuto

Yes you are correct, though you need to make sure if its installed by a shop or "buddy" that you know exactly what springs and modifications have been made. I have actually tuned a truck without being told it had a heavy duty shift kit in it, upped the pressures and blew the solenoids

This certainly emphasizes the need to inform your tuner of the current mods. including specifics about after market upgrades. However, the thread is about V-8 Boatboy's experience with his install so I'll stick to that concept in this thread. :p

HypIllAuto · 12-29-2004, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by performancenut

This certainly emphasizes the need to inform your tuner of the current mods. including specifics about after market upgrades. However, the thread is about V-8 Boatboy's experience with his install so I'll stick to that concept in this thread. :p

Agreed

tmsoko · 12-29-2004, 07:35 AM

Bottle jack is a great idea! I did the 1-2 Accumulator by hand - a whole lot of cussin' was involved!

*V8BoatBuilder* · 12-29-2004, 08:20 AM

Thanks for the replies guys. I've thought about getting a chip, but I'm waiting for $$ and to make further mods. The biggest thing I would like to change about the transmission, programming wise, are the shift points. Currently it shifts too soon and drops the engine into a lower RPM range than is optimal, especially around 35-40mph.

Todd: I started to do the 1-2 by just pressing it up, but saw my bottle jack in the corner of the garage and it was perfect! Took a little fussing and messing to get it to line up properly, so the accumulator piston was indeed being pushed straight up into the bore, and not canted.

*Rodeo Joe* · 12-30-2004, 09:05 PM

Aaron,

If you go back in there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the 2-3 accumulator while your at it. You can check out the tranny articles over at TCCoA. I did the J-mod to my 4R in the T-Bird and love it!

Joe

Raminator157 · 01-07-2005, 07:11 PM

Very Nice Aaron. More then what I could ever do. Did you get that tray from Burger King? LMAO

*V8BoatBuilder* · 01-07-2005, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordexplorer157

Very Nice Aaron. More then what I could ever do. Did you get that tray from Burger King? LMAO

Thanks man! Actually, those trays are from school. We take them out of the dining halls under our jackets to sled on. A whole bunch ended up in my trunk, and a whole nother set ended up in my dorm. The rest is history. I ended up using them to keep parts together and contain fluids when I did my head gasket and head rebuild in the spring, since then they've become a permanant fixture in the garage.

wired_af · 01-07-2005, 07:51 PM

I always love these how to threads with tons of pictures to look at.

*V8BoatBuilder* · 01-07-2005, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rodeo Joe

Aaron,

If you go back in there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the 2-3 accumulator while your at it. You can check out the tranny articles over at TCCoA. I did the J-mod to my 4R in the T-Bird and love it!

Joe

Joe,

I spent some time on tccoa.com, and much like corral.net, there is a lot of good 5.0/4r70w info there. I did not know about the J-Mod, and am investigating it further now, very intriguing.

I'm sure you've read this many times, but the info contained here: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/page1.shtml is awesome. I suggest everyone with a 4R70W read that. The J-Mod instructions begin on page 12.

What doesn't surprise me is the allegance to eithe the J-Mod or the Baumann kit people have. Gotta love the internet, drilling the seperator plate and shimming the accumulators creates a debate as big as Fords vs. Chevys. A lot of the J-Mod guys seem to think the Baumann kit is trash, which is odd, considering the great press it gets everywhere else.

*V8BoatBuilder* · 01-07-2005, 10:16 PM

More info on the "J-Mod."

Have any of the other 4R70W experts on EF heard of this? Thoughts?

J-Mod installation and description page:
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...business.shtml

Zipped Excel file of J-Mod (rt click, save as):
http://users4.ev1.net/~johndawn/Sepe...ds%204R70W.zip

TCCOA AODE/4R70W guide:
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/page1.shtml

blk mk8 · 01-08-2005, 05:39 PM

the J-mod is named from Jerry who is the creater of the SCT software. the aftermarket for community owes a lot to him.

HypIllAuto · 01-08-2005, 07:45 PM

Actually, the J in the J mod is Jerry GREEN, not Jerry Wroblewski of SCT.
J W was one of the programmers for the EEC original source code, J G is the tranny god.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blk mk8

the J-mod is named from Jerry who is the creater of the SCT software. the aftermarket for community owes a lot to him.

*Rodeo Joe* · 01-08-2005, 09:40 PM

I'm not sure who Jerry Green is. But everything I've seen and read from Jerry W., he was an engineer with Ford in the design of this transmission.

Joe

HypIllAuto · 01-09-2005, 12:26 AM

If I am incorrect, I will say so. I sent an email to the site Admin at TCCOA to get the answer.

*Update*
I stand corrected, I didnt have to wait until the admin contacted me, I just dug through their site. Hmmm...thats interesting. I say that because I asked Jerry W a tranny question at a dyno day, and he laughed, and told me to read up. Maybe his articles is what he meant LOL

*Rodeo Joe* · 01-09-2005, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HypIllAuto

I stand corrected. I say that because I asked Jerry W a tranny question at a dyno day, and he laughed, and told me to read up. Maybe his articles is what he meant LOL

I agree! He's the man!

Joe

*matey* · 01-09-2005, 07:07 AM

all i cna say is holy crap dude i think i would have just bought a reco... great work !!

12-26-2004, 11:57 PM	#1
V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian East Brunswick, NJ 97 Mountaineer V8 4x4 Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 3,429 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Baumann Engineering 4R70W Shift Kit Install: PICS! I haven't done a "how-to" thead with photos in a while, mostly because I've been at work or in school and unable to wrench on the truck. I've wanted to install the Baumann Engineering shift kit for a while, and finally ordered it and put it in. In addition to the shift kit, I ordered their torque converter application valve update for the extra $30. While I was in the valve body, it made sense to do it. http://www.baumannengineering.com/ Based on a few threads on here, I decided to set my 1-2 shift to stage "2" and the rest of the shifts to stage "3." I spend a lot of time in stop and go traffic, and also in the snow and ice. I didn't want to spill my morning coffee or break traction on the often used 1-2 shift. More on shift selection later. I started by draining the transmission fluid and removing the pan and filter. Last year, I had installed a transmission pan drain plug, came in handy this time around: I took out about 9 quarts of ATF, and refilled about the same. Only 5 came down in the pan, the rest came slowly dribbling out as I dropped the valve body. I disconnected the electronics, and then removed the 25 8mm bolts that hold the valve body to the trans body. Two of them also hold brackets for the shift selector. I removed all but 4 bolts, and then let the valve body hang on those bolts while I held it in position. It's very heavy! If the valve body doesn't drop onto the loose bolts, you most likely missed one. The gasket's don't have enough pressure to hold this thing on. There are no linkages holding on. Here is a photo of the underside of the 4R70W without the valve body: The valve body removed from the truck and on my workbench: I've found borrowed dining hall trays invaluable for work on the truck! Once the valve body was on my bench, I removed the sperator plate. Valve Body Disassembled, seperator plate removed: Seperator plate gaskets: Included in the kit is an awesome instruction manual, some Baumann parts, and the Sonnax parts I ordered. Sonnax and Baumann transmission parts: Baumann supplied drill bits: Keeping the drillbits in order is very important. We're working with super close tolerances here. Once I selected which shift levels I wanted, I cleaned off the ATF from the sperator plate with brake cleaner, then marked the seperator plate with Sharpie. I didn't want to drill the wrong hole! The drillpress was invaluable here. Marking the seperator plate with Sharpie: Drilling the seperator plate: In addition to drilling the seperator plate, part of firming up the 1-2 shift lies in the 1-2 accumulator. It's in the transmission body, but accessed from below. It's held it with a pretty beefy snap ring, so use real snap ring pliers and wear saftey gogles. A spring is replaced, and some shims are added. Pay attention to the late model 4R70W instructions here, things have changed since the AOD-E. Ford original 1-2 Accumulator assembly: Baumann vs. Ford upper accumulator spring comparison: (The Baumann spring is the silver one) Compressing the 1-2 accumulator to re-install the snap ring was proving to be a challenge, untill I put my bottle jack on a milk-crate to hold it in place while I reinstalled the ring. Re-installing the spring loaded 1-2 Accumulator: After that, there were some valves replaced or shimmed in the valve body, and then the body was re-installed into the truck. The torque converter control valve from Sonnax also detialed drilling another hole in the sperator plate. I cleaned everything with brake cleaner, then pre-lubed it with ATF before reassembly. It was hard to keep it all clean. On my first test drive I was impressed, but the shifts weren't as firm as I would have imagined. The transmission seemed crisper, and more solid. Downshifts were improved also. If I had to do it over again, I might have gone stage 4, but time will tell. In the explorer 4R70W, many of the passages are already enlarged from what Baumann says that they should be. Since the seperator plate holes are a mater of relative size, I think our stage "3" is a stang AOD-E stage "2." I could be wrong here. I think it was a good, worthwile mod. Took about 6 hours to complete, including a lunch break. It ended up costing close to $200, the kit and extra parts were $150, and 10 quarts of Mercon V isn't cheap. More to follow..... __________________ -Aaron Off Road: 97' Mountaineer: V8, 4x4, 4.56s, 4" Superlift, SOA, TrXus 33x12.5 - Under The Knife Work: 00' Ranger 4cyl 5spd, 02' Ford E250 5.4 On Road: 2006 VW Jetta TDI/6spd DSG. Fill it with diesel, please. Octopus Yachts, LLC Engineered Marine Electrical Systems Last edited by V8BoatBuilder; 12-27-2004 at 12:26 AM.

12-27-2004, 12:56 AM	#2
HypIllAuto Sponsor Atlanta GA 2004 Adrenalin Sport Trac Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 78 Vehicle Specs	Great write up. I have found that with the 4R70W, especially in the trucks, go with the stage 3 on the 1-2, and the 4 on the 2-3, for performance purposes. With you being in the ice, I think you made a sound decision for the time being. __________________ Wayne Foy

12-29-2004, 07:35 AM	#7
tmsoko Wannabe Elite Explorer Plymouth, MI 2010 Adrenalin Join Date: Mar 2001 Posts: 836 Vehicle Specs	Bottle jack is a great idea! I did the 1-2 Accumulator by hand - a whole lot of cussin' was involved! __________________ 2010 Adrenalin AWD V8 - Black, with all the goodies, 20" Voxx G-FX wheels and 265/50/20 Nitto Terra Grappler ATs. In the works: Saleen Series VI supercharger and custom 14" / 6 piston Baer brakes. 1999 Ranger AWD - 4" stainless exhaust, Baumann 4R75W, FX4/Torsen Rear axle, Momo 20's with 305/50R20 Open Country's. Working on: 351W, forged shortblock, custom manifold / water intercooler system, 2.6L Autorotor, AFR205s and custom long tube headers.

12-29-2004, 08:20 AM	#8
V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian East Brunswick, NJ 97 Mountaineer V8 4x4 Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 3,429 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks for the replies guys. I've thought about getting a chip, but I'm waiting for $$ and to make further mods. The biggest thing I would like to change about the transmission, programming wise, are the shift points. Currently it shifts too soon and drops the engine into a lower RPM range than is optimal, especially around 35-40mph. Todd: I started to do the 1-2 by just pressing it up, but saw my bottle jack in the corner of the garage and it was perfect! Took a little fussing and messing to get it to line up properly, so the accumulator piston was indeed being pushed straight up into the bore, and not canted. __________________ -Aaron Off Road: 97' Mountaineer: V8, 4x4, 4.56s, 4" Superlift, SOA, TrXus 33x12.5 - Under The Knife Work: 00' Ranger 4cyl 5spd, 02' Ford E250 5.4 On Road: 2006 VW Jetta TDI/6spd DSG. Fill it with diesel, please. Octopus Yachts, LLC Engineered Marine Electrical Systems

12-30-2004, 09:05 PM	#9
Rodeo Joe Elite Bostonian Frankin, MA 1997 XLT Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 436 Vehicle Specs	Aaron, If you go back in there, it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the 2-3 accumulator while your at it. You can check out the tranny articles over at TCCoA. I did the J-mod to my 4R in the T-Bird and love it! Joe __________________ 97 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC, auto, 3.55 open, removed air silencer, Nexen Roadians, EE sway bars, Bilsteins, Summit harness, Pioneer, Infinity

12-28-2004, 05:17 PM	#3
performancenut Elite Explorer Eastern North Carolina '97 XLT 5.0 Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 758 Vehicle Specs	I've found that the shift kit changes are quite compatable with further electronic modifications (chip, tuner, etc) so that further advanced changes can be made. For example and without drastic line pressure increases (this causes premature failure) one can fine tune shifts to the liking with the already introduced mechanical shift kit advantages.

01-07-2005, 07:51 PM	#12
wired_af Wannabe Elite Explorer Wichita, KS '98 Sport Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,370 Vehicle Specs	I always love these how to threads with tons of pictures to look at. __________________ Alex \| '98 Explorer Sport 4.0L OHV 4x4 32's with 4" of lift. Eclipse head unit and amps. Seas mids and LPG tweets.

01-07-2005, 10:16 PM	#14
V8BoatBuilder Transplanted Bostonian East Brunswick, NJ 97 Mountaineer V8 4x4 Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 3,429 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	More info on the "J-Mod." Have any of the other 4R70W experts on EF heard of this? Thoughts? J-Mod installation and description page: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...business.shtml Zipped Excel file of J-Mod (rt click, save as): http://users4.ev1.net/~johndawn/Sepe...ds%204R70W.zip TCCOA AODE/4R70W guide: http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny...on/page1.shtml __________________ -Aaron Off Road: 97' Mountaineer: V8, 4x4, 4.56s, 4" Superlift, SOA, TrXus 33x12.5 - Under The Knife Work: 00' Ranger 4cyl 5spd, 02' Ford E250 5.4 On Road: 2006 VW Jetta TDI/6spd DSG. Fill it with diesel, please. Octopus Yachts, LLC Engineered Marine Electrical Systems

01-08-2005, 05:39 PM	#15
blk mk8 Wannabe Elite Explorer brother Troll's Join Date: Sep 2000 Posts: 818 Vehicle Specs	the J-mod is named from Jerry who is the creater of the SCT software. the aftermarket for community owes a lot to him. __________________ many years of experience with all cars and fast explorers. Not a Vendor!

01-08-2005, 09:40 PM	#17
Rodeo Joe Elite Bostonian Frankin, MA 1997 XLT Join Date: Aug 2003 Posts: 436 Vehicle Specs	I'm not sure who Jerry Green is. But everything I've seen and read from Jerry W., he was an engineer with Ford in the design of this transmission. Joe __________________ 97 Explorer XLT 4.0L SOHC, auto, 3.55 open, removed air silencer, Nexen Roadians, EE sway bars, Bilsteins, Summit harness, Pioneer, Infinity

01-09-2005, 12:26 AM	#18
HypIllAuto Sponsor Atlanta GA 2004 Adrenalin Sport Trac Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 78 Vehicle Specs	If I am incorrect, I will say so. I sent an email to the site Admin at TCCOA to get the answer. Update I stand corrected, I didnt have to wait until the admin contacted me, I just dug through their site. Hmmm...thats interesting. I say that because I asked Jerry W a tranny question at a dyno day, and he laughed, and told me to read up. Maybe his articles is what he meant LOL __________________ Wayne Foy

01-09-2005, 07:07 AM	#20
matey Aussie Dude Sydney NSW Australia Black 01 xlt explorer Join Date: Mar 2003 Posts: 1,037 Vehicle Specs	all i cna say is holy crap dude i think i would have just bought a reco... great work !! __________________ God protects fools and small children. At the beach!