410 fortune - 5.0L EFI 4R70W drivertrain conversion

[blk94xlt]

Man, you're my new best friend for posting those pics of the explorer tank and pressure transducer. I'm building a 2wd 94 x-cab ranger with the explorer V8 and I'm using the '97 engine harness and computer. Almost the same thing you did but in a ranger.
Before I saw that picture I thought the pressure transducer was part of the whole pump assembly since the wiring diagram shows the trandsucer wires in the same electrical connector as the fuel pump. Your pics made it clear that's not the case. Now I'll have to cut up a tank and do it the way that you did, hopefully without splodin myself.

[410Fortune]

remember that was a 96 tank, its possible (not likely) that in the later models they were combined?

Your Ranger is going to SCREAM. I was just thinking this morning about how fast a 2wd ranger could be with this drivetrain and some mods Camaro beater or desert truck?

Lets see some pictures!

[blk94xlt]

Now I'm positive they were separate. I just didn't realize that the wiring connector for the fuel pump had a little three-wire pigtail that goes over to where the pressure transducer is mounted in the tank. Someone else sent me a picture of the explorer pump. After seeing your pictures it all makes sense.
Probably going to build it up like a desert prerunner. I love those things. I also put the E303 cam into the engine before I installed it so it should kick some serious tail. I'm almost done with the swap. Still got some more things to go before firing it up (on the first swing of the key I hope). This is the first swap I have done so we'll have to see how it goes. I live in Cali so I have to have all of the explorer stuff in there to get it registered like the pressure transducer and that charcoal canister and vent solenoid in the back by the tank.
I put an adjustable timing set on it so that the explorer pcm will be able to handle that cam a little easier but I heard that the explorer pcm and the E303 don't get along too well at idle. Maybe it'll take some pcm tweaking too in order to smooth it out at idle.

[Captain AirTime]

Originally Posted by 410Fortune

remember that was a 96 tank, its possible (not likely) that in the later models they were combined?

Your Ranger is going to SCREAM. I was just thinking this morning about how fast a 2wd ranger could be with this drivetrain and some mods

Oh ya! my first gen rager, stripped, caged and 91 mustang 5.0L with only headers,exhaust and K&N cone (250HP or thereabouts), weighing in about 2800LB (A LOT less than a later model Xcab, even stripped) running 31's and 4.10 gears roasted pretty much everything that came across its path. The X motor with good exhaust and cam should make it rip pretty good Nothing like forced induction once you get tired of it though

[410Fortune]

Torque Monster!!!

Okay well yesterday (05/20/06) I got a wild hair and decided I was going to finally replace my passenger side TM header with the new one Robert sent me.

My truck was fitted with the "test" set of TM headers for the 5.0L conversion, there was nothing wrong with that set but Robert or TM headers decided to send me an updated set for free once he had the conversion header design finalized. Well the new units sat in my garage for about 6 months. I had a pass side exhaust leak for the last few months and it was getting worse. So I finally had enough with the ticking noise and got the pass side manifold replaced.

Here is the "old" header in place:

FYI this is what happens to ceramic coating when they are hot and you enter a swamp. The brown muck will wipe off, I just never got around to it.

On the back side we can see where it was leaking:


and what was left of the gasket:


New manifold in place, NO LEAKS! FINALLY!


Now why did it leak? Why did the gasket fail?
I have a couple of idea's, one is that I did not torque down the bolts well enough when I first installed them, and a couple months ago I had to replace a bolt that had fallen out, I re-torqued the header at that time, possbily disturbing the gasket.
Maybe the leak itself broke the gasket?
Second would be it was never torqued down properly? I am not sure...

I used a new gasket of course, but it is the same kind, the one Robert sends out with his header. I am hoping it holds up, if not I may look to the aftermarket for a better sealing header gasket.

Regardless this process took me about 3 hours, on my BII the pass header is EASY to get at, but with the TM manifolds you have to do some clever 10mm wrench work to get 3 of the 8 bolts in place, you have to thread them with your fingers, and slowly move the header towards the block as you slowly tighten these 3 bolts, the tubes are in the way otherwise. all bolts were hand tightened, then slowly torqued down working from the inside to the outer edges. If it was not for the fancy wrench work required (1/4 turn, flip wrench over, 1/4 turn, flip wrench over) this replacement would have taken me all of an hour.

She runs great now! I also re-set the computer. So far so good! Next weekend I will tackle the drivers side I hope.

Torque Monster Headers KICK BUTT!! Thanks Robert for amazing customer support.

[rcpasq]

Thanks for the editorial on your install. Looking forward to the driver side replacement.

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers

[james t]

Solid copper or aluminum gaskets. Expensive, but well worth it.

[rookieshooter]

Nice looking headers. Wonder if they should be tightened down again when warmed up? Get some of those nice mechanic gloves or Ouch!!!

[410Fortune]

Yes I will be checking the torque today when hot, problem is the 3 bolts that you have to get at with a 10mm wrench + hot header = OUCH

[410Fortune]

OH BABY okay I am digging into my trans wiring right now, I am still fighting the P0135 and P0705 codes.
P0135 = bank 1 sensor 1 heater circuit malf
P0705 = trans range sensor circuit

So I pulled my floor shifter plate to locate the HEGO bank 1 sensor 1 wiring to confirm the heater circuit color from the PCM. The heater wire is RED/WHITE.

The Neau Sensor wire for the DTRS is RED/WHITE.

I may have these two wires crossed in my grey trans plug.......if it is this easy I am going to be a happy happy happy happy man. Getting out the voltage sensor now to check continuity between the pins and the sensors......

I THINK I HAVE MY WIRES CROSSED = codes go away!!!

[FROADER]

Originally Posted by 410Fortune

I THINK I HAVE MY WIRES CROSSED = codes go away!!!

That would be way too easy!
I hope that's it though.

[410Fortune]

Wrong my wiring is 100%, pin 93 on the PCM is the HEGO #11 sensor heater circuit #387 (bank 1 sensor 1) and it has continuity all the way to the 02 sensor plug itself, so I did not cross my wires.

now I am putting another new 02 sensor in there (exhaust shop twisted my wires pretty good)

If the code returns with this new sensor then I KNOW MY PCM IS LYING = update PCM from Ford or find another 97 P head PCM and swap them.

[Captain AirTime]

Originally Posted by 410Fortune

If the code returns with this new sensor then I KNOW MY PCM IS LYING = update PCM from Ford or find another 97 P head PCM and swap them.

Or just quit wasting your time reading codes :p It runs. Go wheelin'.

[410Fortune]

I tried that at is started bleeding rgeen, need a new radiator before she sees the desert.
I replaced the 02 sensor, what a PITA, this is the 1 sensor that is ALMOST impossible to get at without dropping the exahust down pipe, however I was able to replace it without dropping the exhaust....just takes creative wrenching.

All is back together now, getting cleaned up then going for a drive to test for codes (again)

Oh and I have been wheeling with the V8 a few times, just no major trips yet....please send $$$

fingers crossed....

[410Fortune]

well well well my 02 sensor code is GONE, apparently my 02 sensor was BAD, which is BS because it was brand new, I suspect the exhaust shop twisted the wires too much causing it to fail....but I am going to test it first by installing it in my Explorer (in the easy to access bank 2 sensor 1 spot).

1 code left, P0705, DTRS. I suspect it may be my bootyfab floor shifter setup or a POS Ford PCM. The light came on after driving for a bit, driving normally I got nothing (light foot)then when I left the gas station I floored it and as soon as the trans went from 1-2 (has a N shift in between) the light popped on. Baumann told me some of the early OBD-II PCM's were notorious for setting a code either between R and N or when the trans goes to N between shifts.
Perhaps a shift kit would solve this code? or having Ford actually adjust my DTRS? I dunno....I will think about my options here..
I am pretty happy my 02 sensor code is gone though and my wiring seems to still be 100% correct on the first shot!

[410Fortune]

Found this info online regarding my P0705 code:

FORD: 1997 THUNDERBIRD
1998 CROWN VICTORIA, MUSTANG, TAURUS
LINCOLN-MERCURY: 1997 COUGAR, MARK VIII
1998 CONTINENTAL, GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE, TOWN CAR
LIGHT TRUCK: 1997 AEROSTAR
1997-1998 ECONOLINE, EXPLORER, F-150, F-250 LD, MOUNTAINEER, RANGER
1998 EXPEDITION, NAVIGATOR



ISSUE:
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0705, P0708, P1704, and/or P1705 may be stored in memory. This may be caused by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reading an unexpected bit pattern for manual lever position. This may be caused by the PCM, the wiring harness, the connectors, and/or the Digital Transmission Range Sensor (DTRS).

ACTION:
Diagnose the cause of the failure by following the detailed Service Procedure in this TSB article and Figure 1.



Figure 1 - Article 98-23-12


SERVICE PROCEDURE

Connect the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester to the vehicle and call Parameter Identification Displays (PIDs) TR, TR_D, and TR_V.
Move the transmission range selector lever into each gear and stop.
Observe the PIDs while wiggling the harness, tapping on the sensor, and/or driving the vehicle.
Use PIDs TR, TR_D, and TR_V for codes:

P0705 - The computer saw a bit pattern which is not in the chart (Figure 1)
P0708 - The voltage for TR3A (displayed in TR_V) was higher than 1.8V
P1704 - The computer saw an in-between position when the test was initiate d
P1705 - The computer did not see 0000 (P) or 0110 (N) when the test was initiated
Compare the PIDs to the chart in Figure 1.

[410Fortune]

OH baby, I went a half day with no check engine light! This makes me believe if I adjust my shifter 100% correct the DTR code will also go away. My plan is to get some parts off a 4r70w equipped mustang, to work with my floor shifter just like factory instead of the rig job I did on the shift cable as she sits now (its hard for me to get into 1st gear, I have played with the adjsutment about 700 times, it is sooo close)

You guys, I thought the BII ran good before, oh baby.......no leaks on the pass side, no codes, she purrs like a kitten until you hit the go pedal.....
I also figured I have one more wire to hook up for my OBD-2 port, its a + feed I missed. Once I get that hooked up (today) I can finally use my scantool and laptop to check out whats really going on in that PCM of mine.....

Once I get these final conversion issues resolved I can finally put the finishing touch on the 5.0L conversion, a custom 5.0L intake plate with the BII horse carved into it......shhhhh its a surprise! I was also thinking of putting a little Ford Cobra on each fender, but that may be a bit much

[dreamr]

We should be related just so I could con you into doing all this work to my toys

[410Fortune]

you dont have to be a relative I spend more time working on friends vehicles then I do my own most weeks! next is a clutch in a gen III Prelude, on Monday I dropped the ehxuast on a 95 tahoe, replaced the cat and 02 sensor thats the 5th time this month I worked on his truck, brakes for my room mate, my best friends 93 ex lost a head gasket so I helped with that a bit, and of course brett's 94 Ex is getting a 04 Sohc....

So come on over!

[dreamr]

Too bad you are so far away

Ya know though......I just may take you up on that one day, but it won't be an easy repair project. It'll be drivetrain swap time.