Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Going to get rid of that lame looking bracket. Hmm, forgot what it was for, going to get rid of it none the less.
The part that is bent down in the rear comes close to the top of the drag link that I rearranged to go into the top of the Pitman arm.



Now that's a whole lot better looking. Did the same on the other side also.
Why have useless sprung weight.
And the best thing...My engine has not fallen out on the highway. Still has one finger width between the bottom of the oil pan and that second tube from the top which is part of my new engine cross member that allowed me to get some good geometry on my links.




Raising the truck up 7/8" to allow some more room for my new exhaust modification to clear drive shaft. Then after that I'll see about the height to see if I should raise or lower the coilover mounting brackets, which I think will be fine now that the cross member mod was done.
Then to arrange the driver side brackets including mounting the coilover up on the knuckle like the passenger side. The passenger side is fine. Frame brackets were welded on anticipating the move.
I'll be starting this mod around May 12.
Been doing trail rides everyday since last Mon. due to hunting trips coupled with some highway and that thing is just a blast to drive. I never thought that it would handle and drive better then the Dana 35.
There is absolutely no wobble in the steering wheel, like some call the Death Wobble or vibrations.



Here's the new height.
Those 33's are starting to look very wimpy.

[rookieshooter]

To say that this 4link was a little salty is an understatement and I still need more stuff. Like a front drive shaft, and their not cheap either.
I need one that is longer and has the 1310 to fit the D44 flange.
So I was looking at my pile of miscellaneous parts and found this rear drive shaft that came out of my 97 Ex.
That's it above the drive shaft that was fastened to the D35 but the D35 is too short and wrong u-joint.
Then a light bulb came on. Why not make my own



So first thing was to cut through the weld of the D35 DS that had the end that slipped into the transfer case.
Not knowing the thickness of the DS tube, I went slow with my cut-off wheel while cutting through the weld.
It was 1/8" thick. Next I knocked it off the tube.



And here it is. Now this is why you can't go to deep. There is a small lip that extends into the DS tube.



Now to mark the longer Ex DS which already has the larger 1310 yoke.



Now to mark a line around the shaft.
I just used a flat piece of paper about 3" wide. Just make sure ends come together and you got a perfect perpendicular line to the axis.



A thin wall tubing cutter would have been nice, but a cut-off wheel with a little finesse works just fine.



Before tack welding in four spots, I trued the tube up with the yoke. The lip that you saw in the other pick is now inside the 1/8" tube. I left about an 1/8" gap and burned a 7018 rod to fuse the tube, yoke and the part that slips inside together and make a wide pass.



And now one correct length DS with proper ends from 2 different DS.


Next I need to find the correct u-joint clamps that go around the bearing caps.

[Diff Whack Daddy]

Ah, the "I might need that later on" pile pays off again. I have one of those too.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by Diff Whack Daddy

Ah, the "I might need that later on" pile pays off again. I have one of those too.

Ah yes, as I call it "Ye Ole Junk Pile" The amount of visits is directly porportional to the amount of money in my wallet. So here lately it's been picked over quite well.

[rookieshooter]

What in the world I'm I doing now to my new just modified stronger and lengthened DS?

Well I went out on some trails and did some climbing that flexed the front end. Doing great untill I looked under and saw the drive shaft about ready to come out of the transfer case.
Started thinking about one of those square telescoping ones, but aren't to fond of those. And I'm not too fond of the smaller u-joint at the transfer end that I have now.
So back at the pile of scrap I came up with an idea to fix both the u-joint size at transfer and the telescoping idea.

First was to cut off the input shaft at transfer end of DS.



Then next was to grab one of these bolt on flanges that have the larger 1310 u-joints at the opposite end of flange. It's sitting on top of the almost cut off input shaft. This one I think came off my Ex.
Now here is the Trick part on how I'm about to attach the input shaft to the backside of the flange. Notice the hole in the flange. It's almost two inches and the input shaft is 2". So a quick trip to my machine shop to turn the input shaft down. Then slip into hole and weld up. It centers it perfectly.



And here it is all welded up.
The splined part is only 1.75" long, so it don't take too much pull on the DS for it to come out completely.



Now here is the part of one of the drive shafts that I used to make the first one. Now you see where I'm coming from on the telescoping thing.



And there's still an inch inside.



Now to cut off the end of the DS that I made yesterday and have this opposite the transfer end welded on the new shaft.





And here it is, my second generation larger u-joints at both ends and telescoping front DS.
Really did not take any time at all to make and basicaly free.
I was lucky in the fact that the left over DS with the sliding part is longer then what need. Now just to cut tube to proper length and weld the left hand side on.
The longer telescoping part slides out like a knife in hot butter, where as the transfer end take more to pull out. My thinking is the drive shaft will slide more then enough and the transfer won't move much at all. If it does I'll make a removable stop that will only let it come out a little.

And I'll index the rear u-joints with the front before welding.

The more I look at it the more it needs a grease fitting at the end of the female splined part. Just shoot some grease in there and out comes the crap or water.
At least it's turned so water should not be able to stay inside.

[lifeguard379]

I'm not shure how that will work.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by lifeguard379

I'm not shure how that will work.

I'm with ya...I think a whole bunch of testing is in order

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by lifeguard379

I'm not shure how that will work.

I'm with ya...I think this requires some extensive testing
I'd hate to have to weld that purdy splined part, and have a locked DS

[kert0307]

If it doesn't work right, it might help if you put a spring of some kind inside the telescoping part to make sure it stretches there first.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by kert0307

If it doesn't work right, it might help if you put a spring of some kind inside the telescoping part to make sure it stretches there first.

You gotta love the info that's on this site.

[FireZapper]

Why not just hunt for a manual 54 at the junk yard? I found mine and it only cost $45.

I'm thinking your going to jam the output splines into the case and bust it.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by FireZapper

Why not just hunt for a manual 54 at the junk yard? I found mine and it only cost $45.

I'm thinking your going to jam the output splines into the case and bust it.

Well I'm about ready to cut the driveshaft for proper fit. Now the piece that goes into the T-case is still the stock input that is only 1 and 3/4" long.
Now if I cut the drive shaft with the telescoping piece and have it out far enough when it is bolted to the axle, I see no way it would take up that amount of travel backwards and then the shaft that goes into the T-case going back and hurting the case.
May be wrong, but it seems less likley to damage the case this way then to have a solid DS. It's the forward pull on the DS that seems to be the problem, not pushing back.
Now granted I have very little experiance with this 4link, so it's all a learning thing now. Plus the 4 links should, IMO keep it from coming back.
But if it does work, it will be great. And if it don't, Oh well I've got other DS.
I've seen other 4x4s that have had the same problem but went with the square tubing thing that lets it telescope out.
Thanks for your input as usual.
But I'll post what I find out with plenty of pics.

[rookieshooter]

Nope it's not going to fall out. Seems to me I have not finished posting on it yet.
It's like the other things negative things you've said on other sites, and I've proven you wrong again and again.

And besides this is no rock crawler. This is the same transfer case that's been it since by buddy Paul bought the B2 back in 84 and then I've had for many many years driving it. Plus I have spare 1350 cases and it's worked fine for me for many years doing he moderate trail rides that this does.
Has it ever entered your pee brain that I really enjoy modifying this truck Mr originator of the round headlight LOL.
All the mods that I've done have worked for me...not you.
I'd rather build then ride. Ok so your afraid of work or not going out of the box. Some of us are different. I personally would not walk across the street to ride in your truck. I may not get it all right the first time but who cars other then you.

I can blast your build to pieces if wanted to including your craftsmanship. Oh ya, that was about a lame way to make fiberglass fenders if there ever was LOL> So worry about your Manitoba Rust Bucket as one put it on another site.
Talk about taking steps backward, that POS bracket you designed is an accident waiting to happen like the one poster mentioned.
None of my mods have ever let me down. So go back and crawl in the hole you came from.

Oh ya, lets see you do a 4 link and radius rear that works as well as mine or are saying the flex I get is bad. How about the cool chopped top, how about the low COG, do think yours is lower LOL. How about the tube doors, coilovers all four corners, how about the dash Hmm. How about all the rewiring, the 8.8 install, the HP D44 install is that going backwards.
And that awsome gutteral sound of that V8. Get you head out of your ass. The list goes on and on. Who's is easier to maintain, surly not yours. I don't even know you and don't want to. Who the Hell are you anyway. Build your own rust bucket your way. You ought to worry about strength with that Elephant you have. Seems to me not too many care about yours by the response you get.
And the fact that mine is so light makes every joint, gear or any other mechanical part stronger, so that weak link like you mentioned is a moot subject. Or I could just get an Atlas transfer, but that's not going to happen.
I also notice you checking this build out about 24/7s just waiting to say bad things. Grow up.
You really need to be banned from this site like all the others you've been banned from.

[rookieshooter]

It is soooo nice to have 4x4 again. No I did not go out and flex it yet, other then drive around in my backyard LOL. And no the drive shaft did not fall out. Those tests will come soon enough. But I did do some preliminary check outs. Like flex it in my garage.

My big concern was how far the shaft would come out when full droop and stuff. One also must remember that if in fact if the splined part of the drive shaft did in fact pull on the stub part it does not do it in a 1 to 1 ratio due to the angle.



Here it is with axle drooped with no tires. I really need to get some long CO's also and that is another reason for this mod.



And with the axle at the most extreme articulation this is all the further the stub will come out even when manually pushing it out.
The secret is what Kert said. I place a 1" diameter spring in the slip joint. This was on giant step in the right direction, way to go Kert. Plus can shim it or a longer spring I don't want it to even come out this far.
I was originally thinking about some kind of rubber stopper in there but like the spring idea. You can push on either ends or parts and it's not coming out unless you unbolt the u-bolts from the u-joints.
So if this holds up as well as the other mods including ease of maintenance I'll be more the happy. Out of the box for sure, but what ever floats your boat.

[kert0307]

Glad the idea worked for you. PS: I'm not a designer, I'm a mechanical engineer...

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by kert0307

Glad the idea worked for you. PS: I'm not a designer, I'm a mechanical engineer...

I'll post up some pics of this mornings outing. I spent most the morning looking for my front DS, Ha HA just kidding, worked beyond my expectations.
Hey, and I was a mechanical contractor for many years in Wash DC doing mostly military and government work. Nothing to big mind ya.
I sub-ed work from Welsh & Rush and John J Kirlin Mechanical mostly. I did the jobs that were too small for the large union co.
Then later the Union made me a deal that I could not refuse if I joined them and stop bidding against them.
That's when I started doing the huge jobs like Atomic Power plants and most all of the government buildings and military bases around the Nations Capital.
I'm still on file with the Architect of the Capital for work in the White house and the Capital building. Last job with the Architect of the Capital was bringing all the HVAC machinery below the Capital building to modern OSHA specs as far as safety went.
That's why the work on the B2 to me is just so simple. Try designing and installing a 3 foot diameter 16 gauge double insulated exhaust breeching through several floors of an office building terminating above the roof while the office workers are still there.
Appreciate your intelligent input as always.

Oh ya, forgot to mention, the little stub in the 1350 transfer case is still in one piece also after a quarter of a century service LOL . You think a 1000 pounds lighter then full size B2 might have something to do with it LOL. Now if this was a trailered rock climber that may be different, then again why would I have a B2 for one. It would be all tubed chassis and the best of the best stuff. And over 3 years of wheeling and still this is a blast to drive. It just keeps going.

[rookieshooter]

OK, thought some poser shots were in order while testing a few things out like the front DS.
I know how it did last time with the other DS I built so that will be my bench mark.



Still got my Spring Turkey hunting stuff from this mornings hunt. Glad the DS did not fall out, or I'd be pissed.







I asked a question about D44s on another thread and like the shot of FireZapper under his truck. So I thought I'd do one. But his was much cooler looking.
Checking to see how the telescoping DS in working. Still in there.

What do you think Kert? sure these are just brag pics in the real world all this truck sees are manicured forested trails, but it's nice to know that it will haul the mail. In my description of the truck it wasDD/Hot Rod/trail truck Never did I say this build was All that...and a bag of chips as far as an extreme trail truck. But if someone wants to send me an Atlas or Trax transfer, Id take it LOL.

Back to the DS, well to the dismay of one, it stayed in fine and never came out as far as it did in the first testing and this one was even more sever.
In fact I like it so much I'm going to take it to my local DS shop who made my rear one and see what he can come up with a fully balanced one along the same lines.

Just added this short vid of it ideling. Now this is Holly's Off road carb and it just keeps purring like a kitten at angles even sharper then this one.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t=MOV04319.flv

[rookieshooter]

Thought that I might post a pic of what's inside of the female splined end, and no it's not a diaphragm LOL.
But actually I wove two of these spring together. Best as I can describe is the resistance starts well before the cups are seated in the yoke and gets progressively tighter as I push the DS toward the transfer case in order to seat the bearing caps into the yoke and then it springs forward.
It's totally impossible to get so much flex that the DS fall out now, unless the links break.
I know if the testing I did today is any indication of how this works then it was all worth it. Then again it's worth it if it don't, it kept me out of the bars, and that's a good thing. Been sober for 4 years now

If I can find the right size and compression rate for an inner spring then
that will go inside one of the larger springs instead of two of the same size that's in there now.

[rookieshooter]

This is a tubed/16 ga hump I built over the tranny for ease of maintenance, like getting to those transmission cooler lines and transfer linkage. The removable top is laying to the side.



But I never thought that I'd be using it to check on the telescoping DS as I did today on some trail rides with rocks. The other day I would have to stop the truck and get under. Now I could actually see what was going on as it flexed.
Kinda cool to watch. At full stuff and droop the part that went into the transfer case still had pressure pushing in and in no way was about to come out. So now I'm about done with the testing of the DS, it worked out great.

And once the 4 link is done, I'll see about putting a shortened version of this on the SAS Registry. Only problem it says for Explorers and Rangers, Hmmm.



Now that the testing of the 4 link and and DS is about done, it's time to secure properly the brake lines that I had to change due to the tubed engine cross member. Where the wrench is, is where I'm putting on some clamps to secure brake lines.

Can't wait for next week, that's when the 4 link will be tweaked to center and any other finer points I've learned in the last several weeks on how it acts and what other points may need addressed. So far it looks like there's not much to do .
But to the time frame of me using my wifes car at a certain time only while mine was being worked on and not really knowing how the tube engine cross member was going to work out. I installed the brackets knowing that one side would need to be changed, But I just love to this kind of stuff. Get some good coffee first thing that morning, turn on radio and have a blast fabbing.
But main thing I've got a good working front 4link coilover suspension I always wanted.

[black91EB]

looking good. I really think the cleaned up undercarriage adds a lot to it. When are you looking to get your lockers?