Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[rookieshooter]

Here is the complete linkage with 90 deg handle including rubber bicycle grip. Also has the locking mechanism incorporated on the solid steel rod.
I needed some way to lock the step just a little ahead of the outer edge of the slider. If not it will swing inside which makes it a little tricky to get in.
Just made a simple fool proof sear, just like in a gun trigger.
You can see it hanging down just to the right of the welding glove.



Here it is locked down. I've got it angled out a little for ease of stepping on. The hinge point is actually inside the outer edge of the slider.
I have hinge brackets welded on the rectangular tubing instead of the round tubing that protrudes from the side of the rectangular tubing.



Here it is tucked right under seat and next to the seat adjusting lever.
It is also in the locked position.
The sear protrudes through hole and sets against the sheet metal of floor.
Need to find a neat little boot to cover it up.
Then to raise step up, all you have to do is to lift up on handle and pull the handle sideways toward tranny hump to fold up.

I still have to make a simple locking catch so that it locks in the up-right position.
This will be another sear type gizmo.
All you have to do is to push the rod down and another sear will hold it fast.
The natural tendency of the rod to spring back up will hold it in place.



Now here it is in the proposed locked up position. I say proposed, cause I have not built the up position locking mechanism yet haha .

Now it's as easy as getting into your Lazy Boy recliner.

A little off topic but check this post that Rockranger posted. It was so cool to see those Old School 4x4s. This is when I got hook on all this 4x4, stuff back in the early 70s, I posted a pic of my first 4x4 on that post after seeing the exact same one I had.
No hijacking please, if you got questions on that old rig, post here. Wish I could find some of my really old 4x4s and some of the rides. Even did some trails in Co back then also.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...=1#post2506478

[rookieshooter]

Here is the simple latch used to hold step in the folded up position.
So now it's just a click to let down step, in fact once it's un-locked gravity sends it on it's way and catches the the locked down latch by itself.





Like any suspension mod, a bump stop was in order.
Once the connecting link was locked down in the fold up position, there was not enough Anti Squat built into that angle of rod to keep it tight up against body ha ha. Now it even has a little pre-load built into it also before it's locked.
Don't need any rattles.

Was going to do a short vid of the thing working. Kinda cool looking actually when it goes up to the locked position.
But really does make getting into a snap.
With the rocker panel cut off the top of the slider is almost to my pocket.

[RangerX]

That is genius in it's simplicity! Hope you post a video once it's working right.

[Turdle]

Do the step brackets attach to the bottom of the square slider tube?

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by Turdle

Do the step brackets attach to the bottom of the square slider tube?

Yes, and I've gave it some thought that I could easily put a little incline piece of steel at either end of the brackets so rocks could easily slide over brackets and then even lay a square piece of tubing between brackets to help. Might be overkill.



Adding some more tubing to the first prototype handle. The approach angle was a little short, just ergonomically not good.


Thanks for the compliments guys.



Here's the new location. It's connected to the old sawed off handle. Now that short little handle it's connected to gives it a little torsional twist. Was gong to make a new all one piece, but I like the feel of this one.



Now it's got a little sporty look to that handle. I extended it and gave it a few twists so it would lay closer to the seat and much easier to get at, don't ya think?
There's about 7 bends in that rod to get it at that location.
One other thing. If someone else tries this with a rod. Cut the hole in the floor in the best spot you can. A little imagination will go a long way here. The hole is really the fulcrum point for the rod to bend, giving it the spring it needs to stay latched.
An all electric one would be super cool also.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t=MOV05195.mp4

And finally just for RangerX about posting a video.
I like the way it locks after releasing handle.
If your wondering why I have that silly smile on my face, it's not because I'm glad I did not trip and fall on my face, but I just noticed the song playing in the background on my garage radio. Glad it was not the Beach Boys song about a Chevy 409

And if your wondering where I got the 4130 Chromoly steel rod for the first handle? I cut two of the old B2 rear hatch struts I had laying around. As I said many times, I don't throw anything away, I knew it was good steel to have around.
I have saved thousands of $$ doing this on stuff I have built for this rig.
Now for the last rod that extended the handle...kick stand off old bike.
Hay, what ya expect living on a retirement check. Gotta think Old School technology.

[NORDFORD]

That is awesome!! How are you going to cover the hole to keep rain, mud, and cold air out?

[RangerX]

Originally Posted by rookieshooter

And finally just for RangerX about posting a video.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v8...t=MOV05195.mp4

Hay, what ya expect living on a retirement check. Gotta think Old School technology.

Haha, Most Excellent!!!

And I would call that American ingenuity!

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by NORDFORD

That is awesome!! How are you going to cover the hole to keep rain, mud, and cold air out?

And it's period correct for this make and model. Just a wee bit modified

Just so much more to do before the snow flies again.



Can not really torque nuts down too tight on the bracket that supports step...it just won't swing down on it's own and lock. So after getting the right tension, just drilled and added cotter pins, even did the heim cause I'm outta of thread locker. Don't need anything falling off and endangering the local populace while going down the highway ha ha

[Turdle]

Ok, now I will work on a coil sprung version.

[rookieshooter]

A couple down in Harrisonburg Va came up and checked out my matching 84 trailer and made me a good offer.
They said that they would like the B2 also one day. That's not going to happen ha ha .
They towed it away tonight and will be camping with it this weekend somewhere next to the Shenandoah river.
Hey if you see it on the road let me know.
I've been asked to do an Explorer and a Suburban, but I need to build me another one first. Might just do an X or Sport for myself.
But if I can get another B2 cheap, I'll have one of those also.
I can turn one out in a week.

[hoss_hanna]

good lord i hope u got a good price! i saw how much work went into that trailer

[seafarer76]

How about a fabbed pop up style, like this one...

[rookieshooter]

Hoss appreciate the thought. I got back all that it cost me and a little more. In todays economy sometimes that's the best you can do.

Seafarer, Now that's something to consider also. One could find a tent similar to that one and then just custom build a trailer under it. Kinda reverse engineering.
Maybe something along the lines of a Ranger bed. I really think those step side style Ranger beds are he cats meow.

Every time I pass a salvage yard I find myself looking at different model SUVs to hack up in a camper thing. Hey, what ever the market will bear.

[DCExplorer]

Originally Posted by rookieshooter

One could find a tent similar to that one and then just custom build a trailer under it. Kinda reverse engineering.

Or you could add a tent to the back of your next trailer. Nissan makes this tent that fits the back of an suv or minivan. So presumaably it would still work if you cut the front of the vehicle off.

[rookieshooter]

All kinds of options are opening up Hmmm.

[black91EB]

something else, if you do another one out of a RBV, you might consider using the rear axle out of a 80's-90's dodge caravan under it. The Caravan being a front wheel drive, it has a solid beam for a rear axle that is about the same width as an RBV, comes with the correct lug pattern, and is leaf sprung. It would be alot more snag resistant and MUCH lighter, as well as allowing you to sell whatever axle comes under the surgery candidate.

Oh, and that last pic definitely shows the need you have for some bigger rubber. You keep it up building these campers, and tires should be pretty easy to fund.

[MrQ]

Hey rookie, where did you get that shifter boot for the transfer case? I can't find one down here and they are crushing the 1st gens like crazy.

[rookieshooter]

Black 91, that's a coincidence you said that. One of my neighbors who's used to race off-road and is a retired machinist said the same thing. The list of options just keeps growing, really appreciate all the fine input.

MrQ, I had a tuff time finding one also, and eventually found one in a salvage yard, I think it came off a Honda, shhh, don't tell anyone.

[rookieshooter]

Going to call this part of the build "Wheelbase 101+". I love the way this truck does the trails and highway driving with the longer wheelbase. Well if longer is better, then it's going to go even longer...101+.
This will require more drastic changes to the suspension and some gas tank area work.
First I'm making some Hold Points to go by. Making a mark of where the axle is now in relation to the floor.









Un-bolted the front radius arm bracket.
Need to move this rearward.
I also mounted it lower on the frame to change the Anti Squat.
Also the track bar mount at frame end was modified so the bar runs parallel with the relocated axle tube and readjusted for proper length.



Hmm, guess I'll be going to have this lengthened tomorrow.



Here is the first location the rear axle was moved back to.



And new location with radius arm mounted lower on frame.
It's easy to see that the shock is more near vertical and that the tire is closer to the rear of the wheel well opening. May have to modify that some, no big deal to do.

Now this will change the geometry of other things that will benefit also. Like an even shallower drive shaft angle that will lessen the strain on u-joints. Coilovers in rear will be at a better angle.
Even better departure angle and more up and downhill attributes.
This will be the last of the rearward shove.
Will eventually start playing around with some tender or secondary springs for the coilovers since the wheelbase mod is done.
Gong to try to get the spring frequency as close to perfect as I can. Or another way of saying, having the rear springs tuned to stop cycling the same time the front does when going over a bump.
That's the beauty of a linked coupled with coilover suspension. Just so much you can do to fine tune, including wheel base.

If I get a little bored one day, I'll cut off the very end of the top radius arm where it bolts to the frame bracket and move the bracket towards the very first location or a bit futher towards the front.
Then weld an extension to the radius arm for an even longer long arm suspension for an even better ride and crazy flex.

Should have some pics of it outside tomorrow that will better show the extended WB.
Then it will be out on some trails to test out.
Also got a lead on a B2 that is being sold for parts that had an engine fire. Going to talk to the owners about seeing if I can get the body, don't care about anything on inside.

[rookieshooter]

Remaking the rear trak bar since the changes of pushing the rear axle back. I had to modify the trak bar bracket at the axle end which changed the length of the bar.
That tap is a 3/4" x 16 TPI.


Done and installed.



Here is the lengthened DS, just need to primer and paint.



Now all hooked up.



Now with the increased WB even further, the departure angle is 55 deg.
This will even increase some when I build the new square tube rear bumper with receiver hitch.



Rear shock after shoving axle is now 81 deg. it was 76 deg on the first shove back. Now I'm getting close to the high 90% efficiency of the shock. It even raised the back of the truck up a little with no change in adjustment of length.



And a few hours of work and I got a 101+" wheelbase.
Next will be a shake down run with flexing that rear axle to see if something might have to be reworked.
On another note, I have to agree about that truck making those 33s look small (wimpy I think) like Black91EB said,so I'll have to work on that and I'm not talking 35 either. Those wheel wells need to be filled up ha ha.

Do like the way it raised the rear up.