Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

[janderson4010]

bitchin, fully bitchin. haha thats awesome, I would have loved to be around racing cars in those days.

[1996X]

Was that your 59 chevy bel air? That what I am looking for, because I love the looks of the rear ends on them and the 59 el caminos. I found a 60 bel air in a junk yard about 2 years ago, but I dont know what condition its in now, and the rear was a little different. Cool Pictures thats for sure.

On another note, Good work on the bronco. You sure are gonna have a blast in him when you get the rear axle completed. Lots of good work right there that you are putting into it!!

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by 1996X

Was that your 59 chevy bel air? That what I am looking for, because I love the looks of the rear ends on them and the 59 el caminos. I found a 60 bel air in a junk yard about 2 years ago, but I dont know what condition its in now, and the rear was a little different. Cool Pictures thats for sure.

On another note, Good work on the bronco. You sure are gonna have a blast in him when you get the rear axle completed. Lots of good work right there that you are putting into it!!

It was my brother's. I just noticed in the pic that it's hard to tell what to look for, but maybe this song will give you a hint.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29_RZ...eature=related

Thanks about all the work. It just took some time to get all the angles right to come off the frame flat and then over drive shaft, just touch the bottom of the stock Xmember, back down and the flat again to other side.




Now both ends have the tri-angulation thing done. As in Double Triangulated X-member. Sounds cool anyway. But it still needs some lateral supports.
The xmemeber build will be on of the most involved of the whole axle swap, just so glad to get it done well in advance.

The two vertical pieces will be the mounting points for the top adjustabe links. This will make the top links somewhere around 6 to 8" shorter.
Probably won't install the actual pivot points yet. The holes are more critical here being that the link will do an arc and the holes have to be dead drop accurate. Really don't want to have to adjust them each time. And also at the correct angle to keep the bolt perpendicular to the link for strength. But who knows, may just do it anyway.

[gertude.shayna]

I call this a good start and that's all it is. But it does give you an idea of the vision that's floating around in the clouds of my coffee.
Could just punch in numbers in my link calculator... No personal satisfaction out of that, just a little too geekish for me... At lest for now.

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by gertude.shayna

I call this a good start and that's all it is. But it does give you an idea of the vision that's floating around in the clouds of my coffee.
Could just punch in numbers in my link calculator... No personal satisfaction out of that, just a little too geekish for me... At lest for now.

May wish I did after it's all over ha ha.

[rookieshooter]

Now what's going with the X member?

Well after ripping out the sheet metal stock X member all kinds of room and possibilities , as in a true long arm double tri angulated rear suspension. Now that's a mouth full.
This morning was going to measure up some lengths. It would have been around 30. But since I can now slide the x member further forward.
I can get into the +30" with no problem and this would qualify for a long arm suspension.
Why not take full advantage. But it will put me dangerously close to the drive shaft especially if I change the shock positions or for even longer travel shocks.
On a further note, might just oreder the ARB in about a week.



Hope to get it welded in the truck today.

[rookieshooter]

Now with both the inner Ys welded to inside the C frame and the extreme top tri-angulated to frame.
It's easy to see the strength in bracing the top and extreme bottom where it sits on the lower frame lip. The top has a structural brace that runs diagonal from the top to bottom. Not mentioning boxing frame around both Ys Bring on the Hyper flex lol.
Really though this X member will transfer all kinds of torque through out the entire chassis. Like going from spongy body mounts to steel...but with more animated results.

[broncobra22]

Norton, BSA & Triumphs bobbed, slicked & fueled...Brits in one lane staged against the all American Harley's & Indians...just having fun 2 wheels vs. 4, braggin' rights and a trophy + $20. or $50. on the side & everyone hoisting a cool one together with the gals; even after the occassional fist fight. Life was good and real simple!

Double triangulated looks great & that big Dana...definitely appropriate for Sampson's strength & the "Charley Atlas" case; two well known old time strongmen who didn't let anyone bully them around. Best regards and well done on the build!

[rookieshooter]

When I designed the Xmember all the numbers pertaining to frame connection were 1.5 frog hairs larger. "Why" you say. This is so that once the BFH tool was used to knock it into place, some pre-loading of the frame took place where as if it was slopped in only the welds would transfer the applied torque to to the frame and also more of a chance for structural fatigue. "Over kill" you say... damn right.



Now to relocate the this muffler closer to the front for obvious reasons.
After all these years that Magnaflow with internal X flow shows no signs of rust on outside or inside. Well worth the money.

Forgot to mention, stainless.

[rookieshooter]

Finally I can drive this beast again. Muffler is relocated closer to the Atlas X member. Had to naturally cut and also miter some pieces, then welded it up.
Used a 1630 rod for the tubing and does a good job as long as the heat is low and I got it set on neg.


The only thing that might be in the way of the Dbl tri-angulated 4 link is the batt. box, but that's no big deal to lift up.
Absolutely no exhaust to worry about now.I'll most likly reuse the Ballistic joints that are on the frame mount now.
There just so tough.









The upcoming new suspension links which will be so obvious when viewed from the rear coupled with the huge D70 is going to send shivers among the local 4x4 guys ha ha.
There all good guys and it's just fun messing with um.

[rookieshooter]

Before I had the new 4 link Xmember in place and the spare was mounted in the rear bed placing the weight of the tire between axles. The center balancing point was at the blue vetical line.
But now with the tire/gate and the new heavy x member and placing the jack in the exact same spot, it's easy to see the point is no longer there as the rear of the truck is still down. This is a good thing.
It had too much weight towards the front which worked great going up, but too easy to roll over when going down. You could feel the back coming up on extreme down hill rides. So I want to increase the forward roll over angle by moving the COG toward the rear.



Check the new pivot point out now. It's to the left of the lower link mount as before it was at the link connection.
Note that the spart tire and swing gate is cantilever mounted outside the center line of rear axle.
And being mounted cantilever, note part of the word "lever" the weight of the tire is actually putting more weight on the rear then it's actual weight and simotanusly takeing weight off the front, neat uh.



I'll have about 10" seperation at axle end on the dana 70 and 0 to 10" at frame end.
This way there will be plenty of adjustment for the all mighty instant center adjustment to come up with different anti squat number.
Be easy once I find the exact COG in 3 diminsions to graph some lines on the above pics shown with the horizontal COG line, anti squat line drawn from rear tire patch through the instant center and where it crosses the COG line.
Then could even do the front and rear roll over points and a few more fun things. I know one thing now it needs some more high front roll over numbers so when doing some down hill trails I don't get so much of the back wanting to come over the top feeling.
Then I still got the front mounted winch that can be moved to back. Just so much adjustability to mess around with.
So picking new tire size will also be dictated by the suspension geometery, not just what I can fit under it Larger is not always better.
So now that so much weight was taken off high, it's time to put some more back on but in a trail friendly location. Not exactly what Ford had in mind.

[rookieshooter]

Samson leads a relatively sinless life and it's about time for a least one dirty vice.



So enter one 1916 Model 112 vise found in the woods while hunting. Made in a foundry in Littlestown, Pa. How American can you get.
Why not add a vice, great for on the trail repairs or fixing tree stands ha ha.
Goes along with the OBA and crane.



A little waterproof syn grease.



A wire brush on angle grinder...



A mounting plate.



There's been so many times I could have used one. And mounting in a cantilever position to axles just makes it even better.
By the time the heavy D70 goes in there coupled with the 4 links, the weight bias is going to be very nice. I bet it's going to be sweet in the snow with the upcoming air locker switched to the open mode. But time will tell.

[rookieshooter]

All link and shock tabs done on axle.



Taking some angle measurements from the Xmember and taking to the 70 housing just to double check before making the brackets for the lower links.



Going to utilize both upper brackets that made last year for the now defunct 8.8 four link.
They will be modified for the lower links.



Just had to cut the top and bottom plate that the tabs were welded to, then add some more length with a radius cut to fit the axle on one side.
This was done so I could have the 3/4" bolt 90 degrees to the link for optimum strength.
No part of the lower links will be below axle housing, in fact the center line is above the center line of the tubes.
Coupled with the upper adjustable links, this should help in getting some good anti squat numbers as in low or high.
I really want to be able go adjust to some low percentage numbers instead of being so high that I get too much wheel hop when on the rocks and then wonder why things are breaking. But when the situation cals for more body lift, then just change top link to a lower hole and it starts behaving more like a torque arm suspension...I think

[janderson4010]

pm me when you want to get rid of the disk brakes and gears out of your 8.8

[rookieshooter]

Originally Posted by janderson4010

pm me when you want to get rid of the disk brakes and gears out of your 8.8

I think I have 3.73 R&P laying around now. It be hard to sell the 88 with no brakes, but we'll see.

ARB help

I checked out our vendors and no one sells ARB's.
So any one out there knows of some vendors that that have some good prices or sells going on?
The price goes up considerably for a Dana 70 which I expected. Might just buy one today if I can get a good price.

[janderson4010]

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/dan...0_476_484.html
try these guys, I don't know what the price is but they are usually pretty dang cheap, Ill ask Eric if any of his vendors sell arb stuff and see if we can get you a deal. but he is probably still sleeping right now haha, ill let you know.

[rookieshooter]

Thanks for the link and emailed them. I have several prices and I'll check on some more places.



Seemed the crane just had too much weight and bent a few degrees right at the bottom where the telescoping piece is welded to the nut that pivots the crane. Welds and the exo-cage that it's welded to are fine. Just going to cut off the telescoping piece and make another one a little heavier.




Here's the bent one. Seems the washer bent into the nut. The inverted trailer ball is only welded in two spots on the exocage. But the welds and the square tubing held up real well.



Made up a new one complete with end cap. The other one was opened and would let water down into the bottom which produced rust. No problem with this one plus I put massive doses of anti seize on the threads also.



Here's the old location when stored in the back. Then it would be lifted up and set on the adapter on far back driver side corner when needed.




But due to the new OBA it needs to be relocated.
Here you can see how the ball and the exocage took all the weight.



Here's the new location. It's moved forward some, but now it sits directly over axle tube which I like. Again paying attention to where the weight is added.
I really don' ride around with it on much, but you never know, may spot front D60 laying in some abonded farm field.

[rookieshooter]

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Order date: Feb 23, 2012 4:21 AM PST
Google order number: xxxxxxxxxxxx

Shipping Status Qty Item Price
Not yet shipped 1 Dana 70 U Air Locking Differential by ARB $989.99
Shipping & Handling (Standard Ground) : $0.00
Tax (WV) : $0.00
Google Checkout $20 Bonus - Limit 1 per person on orders over $200 before shipping & tax. Bonus may not appear in store's email. -$20.00
Total: $969.99

Ordered it

Did a lot of checking and this is by far the best deal I could find. No shipping and even got -$20 for using Google to order.
All others suppliers were well over $1000

I could have gone with a cheaper locker, but after reading dozens and dozens of personal experiences with different lockers one just stood out, so I went with that one. I really did not want to buy a $600 locker only to have it grenade and then fork out all the money for an ARB.
I know some have good luck with other cheaper lockers, but did not want to become one of those guys that said "should have bought an ARB". That was my same reasoning for the Atlas.

Now to get some custom axles shaft and 5.13s and some DOM tubing. This will come in due time, but no where as quick as I would like. Just wanted to get the high priced item first, then the rest I can piece meal together.
Samson's just got a little stronger lol. Not mentioning a whole lot better tire wear in the back as opposed to the welded diff that's in there now along with all the other attributes of having the option for an open diff.

[janderson4010]

sweet, arb's are dang cool, and you already have oba which makes the install that much easier.

[rookieshooter]

Making some link tabs for the new xmember. Both pieces have a 3/4" hole for the heim.
The tack weld was to hold them together for drilling and now to cut to size.



Actually this is not a set. One tab will be part of a set that will have one tab that needs to be longer.



The left side is the one that needs to be longer due to the angle of the brackets coming off of the Xmember. This way the heim is exactly 90 to the 3/4" bolt. Once the angle is found and the bearings are flush with the tabs, the hole will be marked for the other 3/4" bolt.
What I did was to to mock up the angles on the table to figure out the length of the long tab.


Next I'll run a 3/4" bolt through both tabs and heim and weld onto the Xmember that's already installed between frame.



A real PITA laying on my back and doing a vertical weld. It was first tacked with the heim in place and then removed the bolt and heim before final weld.

I wanted at least one mounting point in place when it's time to install the 70.
One end will attach to the 70 upper diff tab and other to this tab. Then I'll pivot that end up and mark some more mounting points up. These holes have to be done later cause that way I can get an exact mark for the holes since the link will swing on an arc and will not have to adjust the length of the link for each hole.

This attaching point has the top link going down from the diff with about a 4" seperation from the lower link coming off of axle housing. I'll have some more mounting points high like i said. Could put another one lower if need be.