Ricks Bronco: 1and 1/2

**rookieshooter** · 08-04-2005, 09:50 AM

Going to install one of those round aluminum gas doors. This is like putting a round peg in a square hole.

Cut and fit some 16 ga. metal. I'm going to get an 8" dia. door. Its made for some other model truck. It will cover most of the square hole except for the corners. You can see some of the scribed lines.

All welded in and just a little of that red glazing putty. I did not spend too much time finishing on the flat sides mainly the corners. Now I just have to go get the door and cut in. I'm going to paint the whole truck the same color as the tail gate and I think the round door will add to it.

*Josh S.* · 08-05-2005, 02:01 PM

damn that thing is lookin good man! that's a ton of work that you've done there. keep it up

**rookieshooter** · 08-06-2005, 09:38 AM

Thanks Josh. Scribing line for door that I picked up at the All Tuck Nationals at Carlisle Pa yesterday among other things. $49.00 here $25.00 there. Its actually for a chevy but it was the largest that I could get.

Cutting sheet metal.

Had to take off locking mechanisim and trace around so it would recess into metal. Actually I cut another opening on other side and relocate lock because it was to diffiucult to remove gas cap. OH well nothing knew for me. I don't think there has been truly one bolt on thing in this project.

Checking fit.

Finished except for some longer bolts.

**rookieshooter** · 08-06-2005, 09:40 AM

Picked up a powder coater machine while I was up there and also talked to guy who I met up there that has a 4 wheel drive shop not to far from me who said he could get me some of those flared fenders this in not a fender flair but the whole fiberglass fender. Made by Perry Scroll back to see round gas door installation.

**RangerX** · 08-06-2005, 03:50 PM

You cut that clean circle by hand!?!

:bowing:

**rookieshooter** · 08-06-2005, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerX

You cut that clean circle by hand!?!

:bowing:

It's only about 18 ga. The trick is to lean the snips to the side. I'm talking about the right and left hand snips not the real big ones. The right hand snips have red handles and the left have green. When using the rights, (red handle) Which most right handed people use, they actually cut to the left. Example; the circle I cut, I used a uni-bit to drill a hole on the inside of the circle close to the scribed line on the right side. Then I used the red handle snips called Rights to start the cutting, leaning the snips to the right and started cutting counter clockwise (left). Leaning the snips put the top blade, the metal and the bottom blade at a better angle to each other. If you don't lean the snips the metal has a tendancy to want to seperate the two blades.
Oppisite if you use the green handle snips, lean to left and cut to right. They have come out with some new type snips that have a large round flat type blade on the bottom and these snips make cutting round holes even easier.

Should have the top coil-over front shock loops installed this coming week

**rookieshooter** · 08-08-2005, 02:05 PM

Fitting a vertical piece in the passanger side tube door.

Just getting some ideas on how to mount this thing. It has to meet certain criteria befor I go with this set-up
#1 It has to be removable, so I can install door back on
#2 The original door has to be able to come off without removing the fender. As it is now the bolts are behind the fender to get to the door bolts. This would require taking off of fender.....Well that's not going to happen!!!! Maybe some removable plugs? I'm going to have it up against the door jamb with a latch that probably operates from inside, and the other end fastened to cage on outside with removable hinges,

Have to come up with an idea on mounting this coil-over shock hoop also. One way is to weld it or bolt it with brackets to out side of frame. Then add gussets and some more tubing supports from top inside of frame to hoop. I thinking that the other way would be to weld it to top of frame as close to inside and then running supports from outside of frame up to hoop. I'm just concerned about tire rub with the hoop on the outside of frame.

*mechanix* · 08-08-2005, 04:04 PM

Looks like you are putting alot of time into this project. I can't wait to see the finished product. Keep the pics comming.

Eric

**rookieshooter** · 08-09-2005, 12:45 PM

thanks Mechanix
Found the hardware I needed at a local farm supply place to make the tube door removable. I used gate hardware that was made so one could remove the gate, how simple. The two hinges at the end had a 1/2" rod that was welded to a right angle steel bar, all I had to do was to cut the L bracket to match the height of the tube and weld it to ends of tube. The 1/2" rod slips into a round hole that straps to the cage. This piece was for steel round fence posts. It bolts tight to roll cage, later I'll weld it to tubing and cut off where it's bolted flush with tubing.The other end i just welded on a 1/2" bolt that had a smooth portion before the threads and cut to length.

Here it is installed on the outside of cage and snugly up aginst the door jamb. I did not need any kind of latch.....just the bolt going thru the jamb with a simple fastner pin. I hope this will be a strong set-up since it's flush up against the Jamb which is a strong part of the truck. The bolt passes thru several layers of metal. So all I have to do now is to remove the pin and lift up and it's off. You can see the round brass pin at left hand side of tubed door. That's the pin you pull to swing door out. This pic here you can see the bolts that needs to be cut off after welding straps around tubing.

Here is the the pin that secures door to the trucks door jamb. The outside tube is pushed up tight to rubber molding and then the pin installed, this makes for a rattle free connection. Next I'll add somekind of coiled rubber key chain type stuff to pin so as not to loose it.

*Josh S.* · 08-09-2005, 05:33 PM

or a 6" piece of thin steel cable with a loop on one end then somehow conneced to the pin...would look cool with all the other metalwork you've done

**rookieshooter** · 08-09-2005, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh S.

or a 6" piece of thin steel cable with a loop on one end then somehow conneced to the pin...would look cool with all the other metalwork you've done

Why didn't I think of that

I have some stainless steel cable that has a vinyl clear coating and is real thin. It came in a kit that I have if I can find it, to make steel fishing leaders. We have these fish in the river no more then a 100 yards from my house that has these Tiger Muskie fish and let me tell you they have a mouthfull of needle sharp teeth. The kit has the sleeves and the special pliers to squeeze on the cable to form the loop. I'll just cinch it real tight to the pin and make a small loop at the other end and pop-rivet it.
Thanks Josh
Took the door and front fender off tonight. Wanted to see how heavy that door is, I knew it would be heavy, but not that heavy. Then this idea came to me as I was stumbling thru the yard with this behemoth door. Why not make a light door out of small tubing and cover with canvas or sheet metal and then have a vinyl window. It would weigh a tenth of what the stock door weighs. I had a land cruiser that came stock like that. That way I could leave the tubed door in place for added protection behind the new one. It could be removed the same way that the tubed door is. I could leave the stock attachments on in case I wanted to put original door back on. Somthing to think about anyway.

Took front fender off so I have more room to work on coil-over shock hoop tommorow.

Creager · 08-09-2005, 08:35 PM

I missed something... are you using Coil overs on beams? thats pretty badass.

i cannot wait to see this thing once its done...

EDIT: nevermind i read page two

TheFox88 · 08-09-2005, 10:10 PM

This is going to be one sweet truck once you're done. I just read through the entire thread and i can't believe the amount of fabrication and work you have put into this project! This is a truly custom truck.

How is the work on the engin going? Are you going to be running any kind of lift, aside from the coil overs? What kind of modifications have you made to the TTB? Will it have longer droop than stock? What size tires are you going to end up running? And what gears/locker are you going to have? Sorry about all the questions, but this seems like a really neat project and I want to know more about it.
Good luck,
Bryce Fox

mitch · 08-09-2005, 10:58 PM

i bet it will be 5 stared before this thing is over

**rookieshooter** · 08-10-2005, 12:14 AM

Thanks Creager and Mitch
The Fox88...... The short block 302 bored .030 is complete, still waiting on the heads which are modified early mustang heads ported and polished high comp. The only lift right now is a 3" body lift, mainly for ease of engine and tranny installation. The tranny may change, I have an early AOD that I might use, I like the idea of the 30% reduction in OD. But I may go with the C4/C5 combo that I'm leaning on more and more. The D35 is stock with 3.73's and 8.8 LS both from a 94 Ex. I have'nt picked up my new ring and pinions untill I decide which tranny to use. If I go with the AOD I'll probably go 4.56's C4/c5 4.88's. with air locker. I have an extra set of beams if I want to cut and turn. But my friend Jack who has really helped and hounds me to get rid of the D35 and install a D44 SA in the front. So much as to give me a D44. If I go with the D44 I will still use the coil-overs. So that is why I haven't cut and turn or installed longer front RA's. I will probably go with the set-up I have now just to get her going and then decide. IF do go with the D44 up front the rear will have one also. Around 35's on tire size, again R&P ratio?

It's amazing how many people I never knew before come by my house now just to talk about this stuff. Just today a guy came by who works at a local salvage yard and also is a car inspector for a garage. He actually made a list of stuff that he can get at the salvage yard and will bring it to me on Sat morn. dirt cheap WOW! Even the train that comes by blows the horn while I'm working on it and gives an nice thumbs up. He's seen this since day one. Kids love it and they all want to ride in it. Including this one.

I've got to come up with an idea on the spare tire mount. I like the ones mounted in the rear bed. I really am serious about maybe making some light weight doors and the use of Perry front glass fenders. Thanks for the Questions. It probably raised more questions then answeres.

**rookieshooter** · 08-11-2005, 09:56 AM

Making top shock brackets for the hoop. The smoke you see is from the cutting oil I use. I'm a firm believer in this stuff, it really adds life to your bits.

This is the lower mount on the beam. It is located more outboard of the stock location of the shock/spring bucket. I did this to try to reduce body roll and I also have an outboard shock in the rear. (outside of frame) It is just tacked in place now.

It's all tacked in place and ready to be welded and painted. May install support brace from top of each hoop after engine is installed with bolt connections. I have the coil-over leaning in and a little to the back. I think this will let it articulate with the movement of the beams?

Here is backside showing the vertical piece that I mounted outside of frame. going straight up to the leaning hoop. This should give it structural strength eliminating the back and forth motion due to the forces acting upon the hoop.

Here's a pic with-out the door and fender. Should have a little more shock travel now. But at least I got rid of that badly rusted shock/spring tower. Just need to start on othe side next. A little more stuff to deal with. Just need a bigger hammer

*Josh S.* · 08-11-2005, 12:01 PM

Good idea with the angle of the dangle on the shocks...I believe "Jefe" on this site has his c/o's mounted the same kind of way. I do have a feeling however that you have your shocks mounted upside down...maybe they are designed to be mounted like that...I don't have a scientific reason to tell you, but every other c/o I have seen has been mounted with the adjusted spinners up top...just a thought, but you might wanna make sure with the manufacturer cuz some shocks won't work as good if they are mounted upside down.

**rookieshooter** · 08-11-2005, 01:16 PM

Actually it is mounted right, check out the pic and you'll see now why I mounted it in that position. This is probably how it will be most of the time

Just kidding, I know its upside down, but for mock-up it don't matter there's enough room around the c/o. This c/o is busted up anyway.

will let you in on a little secrete.....see the top bolt going thru the top eye of the c/o. Found out after tacking in all tubes and brackets that I can not get bolt out....it hits the left vertical tube

Now I'm going to have to use my cut-off wheel and cut the bolt. DUH

Jefe · 08-11-2005, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rookieshooter

will let you in on a little secrete.....see the top bolt going thru the top eye of the c/o. Found out after tacking in all tubes and brackets that I can not get bolt out....it hits the left vertical tube

Now I'm going to have to use my cut-off wheel and cut the bolt. DUH

Heh, I almost did the exact same thing on my setup. . had to re-engineer the upper mount so I could get a bolt in.

I am worried about your C/O hoops welded to the TOP of the C channel frame. You may want to add additional support to the frame there. Most hoops I've seen are welded to the SIDE of a frame (like your vertical support) as it is more structurally sound. Last thing you want is a cracked frame.

Also, seeing as you're doing this w/o the motor in place, I hope these hoops aren't going to interfere with anything

**rookieshooter** · 08-11-2005, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jefe

Heh, I almost did the exact same thing on my setup. . had to re-engineer the upper mount so I could get a bolt in.

I am worried about your C/O hoops welded to the TOP of the C channel frame. You may want to add additional support to the frame there. Most hoops I've seen are welded to the SIDE of a frame (like your vertical support) as it is more structurally sound. Last thing you want is a cracked frame.

Also, seeing as you're doing this w/o the motor in place, I hope these hoops aren't going to interfere with anything

Your right about the cracked frame. My friend jack who came down tonight to look at the set-up before he welds it up said the same thing. Jack has built some powerfull hot rods and made some of his own frames. I mentioned how about boxing in the c frame, again he said no. He said if I want to keep it on the top then I should get a heavy piece of angle, something like 3x3x1/4" steel. Then have one leg going down side of frame and bolt that to frame and maybe weld. He really does not like to weld to frame if you can get around it. Then set the hoop on the other leg of angle and weld to angle. No matter, tommorrow it will be off and will start on new fix either on top of angle or on side. Thanks Jefe, You and Jack have more experiance in this then me. And we are talking about a very serious and potentialy dangerous part of this project Thanks for your input. By the way checked your truck on your webb very nice.

Had engine in and took back out. Not the one I'll be using but same kind. everything should work

08-04-2005, 09:50 AM	#141
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Going to install one of those round aluminum gas doors. This is like putting a round peg in a square hole. Cut and fit some 16 ga. metal. I'm going to get an 8" dia. door. Its made for some other model truck. It will cover most of the square hole except for the corners. You can see some of the scribed lines. All welded in and just a little of that red glazing putty. I did not spend too much time finishing on the flat sides mainly the corners. Now I just have to go get the door and cut in. I'm going to paint the whole truck the same color as the tail gate and I think the round door will add to it. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year

08-05-2005, 02:01 PM	#142
Josh S. can't kick the habit Seabeck, WA '93 sport 4x4 Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 1,889 Vehicle Specs	damn that thing is lookin good man! that's a ton of work that you've done there. keep it up __________________ 00' Ranger Ext Cab 4x4 05' Dodge Cummins Crew Cab 4x4 Tow Pig Race Explorer Build RIP Prerunner Ranger Build Prerunner Sport Trac Build Seabeck 4x4 and Fab

08-06-2005, 09:38 AM	#143
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks Josh. Scribing line for door that I picked up at the All Tuck Nationals at Carlisle Pa yesterday among other things. $49.00 here $25.00 there. Its actually for a chevy but it was the largest that I could get. Cutting sheet metal. Had to take off locking mechanisim and trace around so it would recess into metal. Actually I cut another opening on other side and relocate lock because it was to diffiucult to remove gas cap. OH well nothing knew for me. I don't think there has been truly one bolt on thing in this project. Checking fit. Finished except for some longer bolts. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-06-2005 at 06:47 PM.

08-06-2005, 09:40 AM	#144
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Picked up a powder coater machine while I was up there and also talked to guy who I met up there that has a 4 wheel drive shop not to far from me who said he could get me some of those flared fenders this in not a fender flair but the whole fiberglass fender. Made by Perry Scroll back to see round gas door installation. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-06-2005 at 10:14 AM.

08-06-2005, 03:50 PM	#145
RangerX Moderator Elite Ranger Omao, Kauai '93 Ranger XLT 4X4 Join Date: Jul 1999 Posts: 7,193 Vehicle Specs	You cut that clean circle by hand!?! :bowing: __________________ Bill Collins 93 Ranger XLT 4X4 "Beauty is only sheet metal deep."

08-08-2005, 02:05 PM	#147
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Fitting a vertical piece in the passanger side tube door. Just getting some ideas on how to mount this thing. It has to meet certain criteria befor I go with this set-up #1 It has to be removable, so I can install door back on #2 The original door has to be able to come off without removing the fender. As it is now the bolts are behind the fender to get to the door bolts. This would require taking off of fender.....Well that's not going to happen!!!! Maybe some removable plugs? I'm going to have it up against the door jamb with a latch that probably operates from inside, and the other end fastened to cage on outside with removable hinges, Have to come up with an idea on mounting this coil-over shock hoop also. One way is to weld it or bolt it with brackets to out side of frame. Then add gussets and some more tubing supports from top inside of frame to hoop. I thinking that the other way would be to weld it to top of frame as close to inside and then running supports from outside of frame up to hoop. I'm just concerned about tire rub with the hoop on the outside of frame. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year

08-08-2005, 04:04 PM	#148
mechanix Got beer?!?!?! Springport, Michigan 91 xlt & 93 xlt Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 801 Vehicle Specs	Looks like you are putting alot of time into this project. I can't wait to see the finished product. Keep the pics comming. Eric __________________ ASE certified mechanic. 91 XLT on 36's. 2005 F150 XLT -Tow rig.

08-09-2005, 12:45 PM	#149
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	thanks Mechanix Found the hardware I needed at a local farm supply place to make the tube door removable. I used gate hardware that was made so one could remove the gate, how simple. The two hinges at the end had a 1/2" rod that was welded to a right angle steel bar, all I had to do was to cut the L bracket to match the height of the tube and weld it to ends of tube. The 1/2" rod slips into a round hole that straps to the cage. This piece was for steel round fence posts. It bolts tight to roll cage, later I'll weld it to tubing and cut off where it's bolted flush with tubing.The other end i just welded on a 1/2" bolt that had a smooth portion before the threads and cut to length. Here it is installed on the outside of cage and snugly up aginst the door jamb. I did not need any kind of latch.....just the bolt going thru the jamb with a simple fastner pin. I hope this will be a strong set-up since it's flush up against the Jamb which is a strong part of the truck. The bolt passes thru several layers of metal. So all I have to do now is to remove the pin and lift up and it's off. You can see the round brass pin at left hand side of tubed door. That's the pin you pull to swing door out. This pic here you can see the bolts that needs to be cut off after welding straps around tubing. Here is the the pin that secures door to the trucks door jamb. The outside tube is pushed up tight to rubber molding and then the pin installed, this makes for a rattle free connection. Next I'll add somekind of coiled rubber key chain type stuff to pin so as not to loose it. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-09-2005 at 01:06 PM.

08-09-2005, 05:33 PM	#150
Josh S. can't kick the habit Seabeck, WA '93 sport 4x4 Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 1,889 Vehicle Specs	or a 6" piece of thin steel cable with a loop on one end then somehow conneced to the pin...would look cool with all the other metalwork you've done __________________ 00' Ranger Ext Cab 4x4 05' Dodge Cummins Crew Cab 4x4 Tow Pig Race Explorer Build RIP Prerunner Ranger Build Prerunner Sport Trac Build Seabeck 4x4 and Fab

08-09-2005, 08:35 PM	#152
Creager Wannabe Elite Explorer Charlotte, NC '92 Sport 4x4 Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 2,800 Vehicle Specs	I missed something... are you using Coil overs on beams? thats pretty badass. i cannot wait to see this thing once its done... EDIT: nevermind i read page two __________________ Creager - Slightly mod'd 92 sport - 4.56, TrueTrac - 3" lift, Tires -

08-09-2005, 10:10 PM	#153
TheFox88 Wannabe Elite Explorer Flagstaff, Arizona '92 Sport Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 985 Vehicle Specs	This is going to be one sweet truck once you're done. I just read through the entire thread and i can't believe the amount of fabrication and work you have put into this project! This is a truly custom truck. How is the work on the engin going? Are you going to be running any kind of lift, aside from the coil overs? What kind of modifications have you made to the TTB? Will it have longer droop than stock? What size tires are you going to end up running? And what gears/locker are you going to have? Sorry about all the questions, but this seems like a really neat project and I want to know more about it. Good luck, Bryce Fox __________________ Bryce Fox -'92 4x4 Sport 5spd. A few mods. Nothing special. -Giggity, giggity, giggity, goo!

08-09-2005, 10:58 PM	#154
mitch Wannabe Elite Explorer high point, NC (home) charlotte, NC (school) 94 limited Join Date: Jan 2004 Posts: 380 Vehicle Specs	i bet it will be 5 stared before this thing is over __________________ 94 limited 4x4 4.0 ohv,kkm, flowmaster 40 custom pipes, 4 inch tuff country lift 32 bfg A/T,surco safari rack w/4 offroad lights, 4.10 gears truetrac up front, warn manuals

08-10-2005, 12:14 AM	#155
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Thanks Creager and Mitch The Fox88...... The short block 302 bored .030 is complete, still waiting on the heads which are modified early mustang heads ported and polished high comp. The only lift right now is a 3" body lift, mainly for ease of engine and tranny installation. The tranny may change, I have an early AOD that I might use, I like the idea of the 30% reduction in OD. But I may go with the C4/C5 combo that I'm leaning on more and more. The D35 is stock with 3.73's and 8.8 LS both from a 94 Ex. I have'nt picked up my new ring and pinions untill I decide which tranny to use. If I go with the AOD I'll probably go 4.56's C4/c5 4.88's. with air locker. I have an extra set of beams if I want to cut and turn. But my friend Jack who has really helped and hounds me to get rid of the D35 and install a D44 SA in the front. So much as to give me a D44. If I go with the D44 I will still use the coil-overs. So that is why I haven't cut and turn or installed longer front RA's. I will probably go with the set-up I have now just to get her going and then decide. IF do go with the D44 up front the rear will have one also. Around 35's on tire size, again R&P ratio? It's amazing how many people I never knew before come by my house now just to talk about this stuff. Just today a guy came by who works at a local salvage yard and also is a car inspector for a garage. He actually made a list of stuff that he can get at the salvage yard and will bring it to me on Sat morn. dirt cheap WOW! Even the train that comes by blows the horn while I'm working on it and gives an nice thumbs up. He's seen this since day one. Kids love it and they all want to ride in it. Including this one. I've got to come up with an idea on the spare tire mount. I like the ones mounted in the rear bed. I really am serious about maybe making some light weight doors and the use of Perry front glass fenders. Thanks for the Questions. It probably raised more questions then answeres. __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-10-2005 at 12:33 AM.

08-11-2005, 09:56 AM	#156
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Making top shock brackets for the hoop. The smoke you see is from the cutting oil I use. I'm a firm believer in this stuff, it really adds life to your bits. This is the lower mount on the beam. It is located more outboard of the stock location of the shock/spring bucket. I did this to try to reduce body roll and I also have an outboard shock in the rear. (outside of frame) It is just tacked in place now. It's all tacked in place and ready to be welded and painted. May install support brace from top of each hoop after engine is installed with bolt connections. I have the coil-over leaning in and a little to the back. I think this will let it articulate with the movement of the beams? Here is backside showing the vertical piece that I mounted outside of frame. going straight up to the leaning hoop. This should give it structural strength eliminating the back and forth motion due to the forces acting upon the hoop. Here's a pic with-out the door and fender. Should have a little more shock travel now. But at least I got rid of that badly rusted shock/spring tower. Just need to start on othe side next. A little more stuff to deal with. Just need a bigger hammer __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-11-2005 at 10:07 AM.

08-11-2005, 12:01 PM	#157
Josh S. can't kick the habit Seabeck, WA '93 sport 4x4 Join Date: Jan 2001 Posts: 1,889 Vehicle Specs	Good idea with the angle of the dangle on the shocks...I believe "Jefe" on this site has his c/o's mounted the same kind of way. I do have a feeling however that you have your shocks mounted upside down...maybe they are designed to be mounted like that...I don't have a scientific reason to tell you, but every other c/o I have seen has been mounted with the adjusted spinners up top...just a thought, but you might wanna make sure with the manufacturer cuz some shocks won't work as good if they are mounted upside down. __________________ 00' Ranger Ext Cab 4x4 05' Dodge Cummins Crew Cab 4x4 Tow Pig Race Explorer Build RIP Prerunner Ranger Build Prerunner Sport Trac Build Seabeck 4x4 and Fab

08-11-2005, 01:16 PM	#158
rookieshooter Martinsburg WV 84 BII "Li'l Samson" Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 7,171 Vehicle Specs (Original Poster)	Actually it is mounted right, check out the pic and you'll see now why I mounted it in that position. This is probably how it will be most of the time Just kidding, I know its upside down, but for mock-up it don't matter there's enough room around the c/o. This c/o is busted up anyway. will let you in on a little secrete.....see the top bolt going thru the top eye of the c/o. Found out after tacking in all tubes and brackets that I can not get bolt out....it hits the left vertical tube Now I'm going to have to use my cut-off wheel and cut the bolt. DUH __________________ "2012 & 2011Truck Nationals" At Carlisle Extreme 4x4" First Place winner. "2012 &2011 All Ford Nationals" At Carlisle First place winner Bronco Trail Truck Featured in 2012 Bronco Driver Mag. Petersen's 4Wheel mag ROTM. Voted 2008 Bronco II of Year Last edited by rookieshooter; 08-11-2005 at 02:06 PM.